: Calling all local TCers, I need help
kmchugh May 22nd, 05, 2:54 PM Would anybody be willing to come over and help me start this darn engine? I have tried everything I know (which ain't much), and it still won't start. I reset the valve lash, and I did have a couple set too tight. It is so close, but not quite there. Burgers and beer on me for anyone willing to help. :beers:
Give me a call at 281-333-0124 (home in eves), or 281-867-3025 (work). I am in Nassua Bay by Johnsomn Space Center.
Regards, Kevin
Mr.McFast May 22nd, 05, 8:26 PM Im too far away but I can talk you through some of the common stuff.....what will it do will it turn over.... does it kick back throught the carb when u try to start it have you tryed to prime it... what have u done???
DZAUTO May 23rd, 05, 12:27 AM Kevin,
If you have fuel to the carb and the dist is firing, I would REALLY suspect that either the dist is not timed properly, OR, you have the dist 180deg off.
kmchugh May 23rd, 05, 12:15 PM With number #1 at TDC on the compression stroke (verified by putting my finger into the spark plug hole), the rotor is pointing directly at #1. It sounds like it wants to start, but it seems like it dies as soon as I let off the key. It may be the MSD box is not turning on. I need to rewire the 12V swith source to the box. I have been told to wire it to the ignition but I do not know how to do this. The carb may need adjusting. It has been backfiring through the carb, so the power valves may be shot. I started with the timing all the way retarded, and advanced it a little bit at a time until it sounded like it wanted to start. Then I went a little past that, then it started to backfire through the carb. How can I tell if the power valves are shot?
Kevin
Georgia69 May 23rd, 05, 12:27 PM It would still start with a blown power valve. I think the problem is your MSD and/or 12-volt source. Are you possibly only getting 12V when you have the key all the way to the "start" position, and hence no power when you release the key to the "run" position? Do you have access to a multimeter? You need to go to your fuse box, and using a multimeter or test light, find a spade that has 12V to it when the key is in the "run" position. This should be the source for your MSD. I bet if you can do this, it will start right up.
Georgia69 May 25th, 05, 3:20 PM So did it ever start?
kmchugh May 25th, 05, 3:53 PM Last night I ran the 12V wire directly to the + battery terminal. It almost started up. I ran out of battery before it would run. I am going to find a way to wire it to the fuse bloc. I think at this point it is a carb tuning and timing issue. BTW, I have been trying to start it with the vacuum advance disconnected, should it be hooked up?
Thanks for asking Mike.
Kevin
Georgia69 May 25th, 05, 4:24 PM I think hooking up the vacuum advance will help. Idle it up a little too.
kmchugh May 30th, 05, 1:20 PM Why can't I get any local guys to respond? I checked the voltage coming out of the resistor wire. It is 11.6V. I hooked the 12V switch wire to this wire. I hooked up the vacuum advance, and played with the carb a bit. It started an ran like crap for about 30 sec. Then backfired thru the carb and quit. It wasn't really idling, I was mashing the accelerator to keep it going. I am so close to getting this thing to run, but I am out of ideas. I need help. Offer still stands.
It really sounds to me like the timing is 180 degrees off... especially the part ( having to throttle the engine to get it to idle)...thats my opinion...good luck!!!
Jim Mac May 31st, 05, 11:50 PM I'm in tucson but I would double check the firing order and make sure its it's going clockwise, do you have a stock ignition setup you can install? that way you can elimnate any questions about the msd not being wired right, has this motor been apart? is it possible timing marks ore off on the timing chain? static time the motor on number one, dump fuel down carb should start right up. Jim
Georgia69 Jun 1st, 05, 9:36 AM Have you done a compression check? I'm wondering if the valves are still too tight.
Bill's_72_SS Jun 1st, 05, 10:36 AM Kevin,
Sorry I'm not local but let's see what we have. The car ran for 30 seconds (even though it ran like crap). This is actually a good thing. You know you are getting fuel to the engine, you know you are getting spark and you know you have compression. It's all down to the fine tuning. Let's just get started with some basics.
1 - Get a good charge on the Battery.
2 - Remove all your spark plugs and clean or replace them. (After all these attempts to start the engine, I bet they are fouled.) Remember, fouled plugs don't always smell like gas.
3 - Recheck the firing order as you put the spark plugs back in. Remember it's 18436572.
4 - Make sure the choke is set on the Carb (if you have one).
5 - Try to restart the car. If it starts, let it run for a bit. Don't mash your foot into the gas pedal. Gentle application of the gas pedal is ok, but avoid stomping.
Let us know how it turns out. Good luck.
Bill
kmchugh Jun 2nd, 05, 1:05 PM I have tried all those things already. I finally bit the bullet and took it to a pro. They got it tuned this morning. It was a carb tuning and timing issue. It didn't cost too much, but I would have gotten off cheaper with burgers and beers. :)
Randy Mosier Jun 2nd, 05, 10:55 PM Glad to hear it's running. Although it's a moot point now, I might be heading to Houston sometime during the week of the 13th, but I don't which days for sure yet. I'm taking time off before I start the new job. I know I'll be in San Antonio that week and I'd like to jump over to Houston to visit my wife's brother. We'll sort of be playing it by ear.
Neuman Jun 3rd, 05, 9:48 PM I'm local but have yet to tackle my engine. I may be calling for YOUR help in a few months!
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