Hey Guy's Merry Chistmas all!

Doods my truck doors are really starting to bug me. I've never adjusted doors before and I don't think the hinges are sagging ya just gotta slam them to get it to latch. I think what is called the striker shows a flat wear spot. The latch mechanism is held in with three screws. Do I need to move it closer so it engages the striker sooner?

thanks
John

In all probability, your hinges are in fact sagging. That's why you have the flat spot on top of the striker. The latch can't move...the striker won't move upward of it's own volition; therefore, the hinges are sagging or you unconsciously lean on the door getting out or pull yourself up to get in the truck. Very common situation.

If the hinges are in reasonably good condition, the best and quickest correction is to use a tool made for this purpose. The tool is inserted in the latch and onto the striker. Lifting up on the tool slightly bends the front part of the door where the hinges mount which compensates for any mild slop in the hinges and/or corrects the downward bend that was put in as a result you "swinging" on the door.

A shade-tree method is to use a floor jack with a 2x4 on it placed under the rear of the door with it partially open and slowly jacking the door up, let the pressure off, check closing, rejack as necessary. The risk of damaging the bottom of the door is extremely high, so if you've never tried this....don't.

The special tool is available at most paint/body supply stores and the tool trucks for 60-80 bucks. It's worth it's weight in gold to a body man...wish I had invented that sucker.

You can adjust the striker downward, but you will probably find that the gaps will not be right even though you can make the door close properly.

Its the hinges causing your problems. The way to tell if your hinges are toast is lift up on the back of the door, if it moves up and down easily the hinges are junk. The pins and bushings could also be the problem. I would check out the bushings and pins first before I would replace the hinges. Only replace the hinges if the holes where the bushing are located are enlarged. Any parts store should have them or even go to a body shop and replace those pins and bushings.

The method of using a floor jack like vettefella mentioned is just a short term fix. That doesnt fix the problem it adds to the problem later down the road. All it does is bend the door frame around the hinges and that will cause more problems in the end. You can do this but I wouldnt recommend it.

My recommendation is have a friend help you remove the door so you can get a better look at the hinges and then determine if the hinges are junk or if pins and bushings will fix the problem.

If the pins and bushings are toast to remove them the best way I have found is get a vise grip and a hammer, grip on the head of the pin having the vise grip pointing straight up, pound it out with the hammer, hitting the head of the vise grip with the hammer. When installing the bushings just tap lightly with the hammer but just make sure it is started squarely.

[This message has been edited by sevt_chevelle (edited 12-26-2001).]

Be careful of the door spring that is in the hinge.Pry it out carefully.You may want to pick up a door spring tool also at the auto parts store.There about $15 and worth it.It will compress the spring so you can easily replace it back in the hinge.

I had an '80 Blazer with sagging hinges. I tried replacing them myself, and it was a real nightmare for me - I don't have the talent to adjust them properly. For myself, I'd have a body guy do it. Spent hours horsing around with it - a guy with the right tools/knowledge probably would've been done in an hour.

Older Chevy trucks are very bad for this, we used to get them in at the body shop I worked in all the time. The front of the door where the hinges are bolted are weak, they bend very easy. You have to jack the door up a little. You can pry it like was mentioned but I always had better luck with a floor jack and 4x4 block. Dont put the block under the edge of the door, the edge will bend, put it under the inner part of the door near the back.
Ron

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66 Nova SS 327 M20 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/toocool66.jpg)
95 Z28 Convertible T56
Aces 3081, TC #54 Gold

The adjustment nightmare starts when you loosen the hinge to cowl bolts.You may need the fender off to get to them.You should be able to unbolt the door from the hinge,leave the hinge in place against the cowl,then change the bushings and pins.then replace the door.

Thanks guy's. What a pain. I think I'll try the jack under the door.

john