Alright, I'm at my wits end here. I've tried painting a few items with por15 and the stuff just won't stick right. All these little holes start forming in the finish, and everyrthing looks like swiss cheese by the time I finish.

At first I just sandblasted parts, then applied it straight on. It went on smooth, but didn't seem to have the durability of parts I'd done before. So, The next part I did (fan) I blasted it, then used metal ready, keeping it wet by way of the "paper towel trick" then rinsed it THOROUGHLY, and let it sit in the sun to dry. I also did the same with a pulley. When I painted the first fanblade, it started the swiss cheese routine. So, I went back and scrubbed the pulley under the hose to get any residues off. Tried it.....same thing. Now, rather miffed, I RE-blasted the pulley and tried painting it right on w/o Metal Ready. STILL has the holes forming. Even with using a different can of the stuff.

What the HELL is going on here? I've tried everything I can think of, with no luck. I even emailed POR15 directly, with no reply.

Any help GREATLY appreciated.

ARGRGGGHHHHHH!!!!! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/mad.gif http://www.chevelles.com/forum/mad.gif

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Eric Taylor
72 Malibu 350

it almost sounds like there is some silicon on your parts. Does it look like a fish eye? If so, My bet is silicon.

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Mac Johnson
1970 Chevelle (frame-up in progress)

Eric, Mac is right. I just did bumper brackets and headlight buckets with POR 15 and even though I glass beaded everything, I still used the Marine Clean. Everyone that I talked to here said to "follow the directions to the letter."

I, too, thought that blasting the parts should clean any contaminants from the parts, but I paid too much for the POR to do it twice.

If you blast the parts, use the Marine Clean, then let them dry. Then the Metal Ready, as you did before, but make sure it dries overnight... completely. I had a lot of chalky residue on my parts, so I used a brass brush to lightly clean the excess from the parts. The POR 15 went on as others told me it would, and the Chassis Coat Semi Gloss left virtually no brush marks.

Hope this helps.

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Scott Dunn
T.C. Member #678

Ah, I knew not using a degreaser of some kind would bite me in the end! Thanks for the help guys. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif Now I get to blast off cured POR15, alright! Not.

Antoher side comment, I'm using white silica sand to blast with. Is this the right stuff? It's what the guy at the store said to use. Of course, he's a moron. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/rolleyes.gif

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Eric Taylor
72 Malibu 350

[This message has been edited by gasoline_fiend (edited 07-08-2001).]

Sand works for small parts is vary aggressive. ONE thing BE SURE YOU PUT ON A GOOD MASK. you do not want to breath in silica dust!!!!!!
GL on the un por-15 job.



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Wayne
ACES 1556
TCG 186
So many Mustangs
So Little Time

I found out another tidbit through experimentation. You can add fish-eye eliminator to Por 15. I use fish-eye eliminator for enamel. It's cheap, and you can get it at any body shop supply store.
Por 15 will tend to form bubbles while drying, but they usually flow out.

I found that using Castrol Super clean works just as good as Marine clean,and you can buy it local.That stuff kicks butt, I use it on everything.

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70 chevelle,400cid turbo400.blue with silver stripes.
http://members.spree.com/entertainment/ochrisl/

I found that using Castrol Super clean works just as good as Marine clean,and you can buy it local.That stuff kicks butt, I use it on everything. Also silica has a form of silicone in it doesn't it? That would explain the fish eyes.

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70 chevelle,400cid turbo400.blue with silver stripes.
http://members.spree.com/entertainment/ochrisl/

now I know why when I bought my Por-15 the dealer told me how much Por-15 likes rust!

After speaking with the tech guy it was clear that they have had adhesion problems, especially when top coating with the chassis black! It could be a combo, user error or poor product.

After using Por-15 myself and living on the left coast where the car had no rust to begin with! I will not use Por-15 again on sand blasted parts. The stuff is defiantly not cheap by the time you buy everything needed and it must be top coated or it will look like crap after 1 month of sun.

Por-15 is really meant for rusty frames and floor pans. Tha's why they push the paint over rust so much! In fact the dealer told me to let it flash rust for adhesion. I didn't do that though, just doesn't sound right!

if sand blasting I recommend shooting good primer and paint.

John

Your silica sand may be the problem !! I would try clening the part with MEK, or maybe acetone or even lacquer thinner before applying the POR15. Iv'e sand blasted parts with sifted "play sand" or sand box sand you can purchase from a lumber yard or home center. Although they claim there is silica in that type of sand also, Iv'e had very good luck with that and the finish is superior to "black beauties". I always wash my parts with MEK before using POR15 or before priming and painting, have had no problems at all with fisheye's. I believe that silica or silcon is one of the most abundant elements on earth. Mike, M22

M22,
What type of blaster did you use with the playground sand? I was thinking of using that stuff for Misc parts, blasting door jambs and inside the bed of my 70 Camino.

Thanks,
Loren

Iv'e got a couple of blasters but the primary one I use is a cheap $35 campbell-housfield suction type with the plastic media container and a 1/4" ceramic blasting tip. Works fine. Just need to sift the play sand through a screen to get the larger pieces out. You can buy the blaster at Home Depot !! Goodluck! M22

m22chevy & all - be REAL careful when using MEK. It's a serious carcinogen and WILL absorb through unprotected skin. I'm not saying don't use it, just be sure to wear the right gear when you do.