I should be getting my replacement roof panel (A guy in WI cut the top of a car off for me) this week. I bought it in WI, and had it shipped to MI for e-coating. I need to separate the spot welds on my damaged roof, as well as the new roof. I have a few questions. Once I have the replacement skin separated from what's left of the cut off roof, how hard will it be to move this skin around? The last thing I want to do is damage my $700 (Shipping, e-coating, $$$$, etc.) roof skin. Do I need to make up some kinda carraige out of wood to move it around, or is it strong enough for a few people to carry?

Also, since there will be no insulation on the botom of the roof, should I put on some Dynamat (more $$$$) before I weld the skin on?, or can I wait until the roof is done and only spend like $12 on the roof insulation kits I can get through Year One, etc.?

Anyone with expertise on roof skin replacement, please help! I've never been quite so nervous to do a job before! I absolutely can't afford to F%^K this one up!

[This message has been edited by ETD66SS (edited 05-21-2001).]

The roof skin will be easy to carry for two people without bending it. Just carry it from the sides with arms out stretched as far as you can. It is pretty stong, you could probably even pick it up one corner off the floor a few feet and it wouldn't fold. Just be careful and you won't have a problem. COMMON SENSE will get you through.

Insulate it after it is welded on.

It s not a big deal, quite easy in fact.

Wait till you get your replacement roof, then set it beside the car an begin to remove your old roof. This way you can confer with the old roof when you remove the "new" roof as to spot weld location, ect. The spot welds were not done by a robot like today so they won't be perfectly matched on the two roofs but they'll be close.

When you drill the "new" roof, your'll want to drill the welds from the bottom, leaving the skin untouched. So get a good cushon like a matress to lay it on up side down.

Clean out all the caulking on roofs before you begin drilling spot welds. Get a 3M striper disc (those black hamberger patty looking things) to strip the paint and caulking from over the welds so you can see each one.

You will also want to use the 3M disc to clean the bad sides of the metal that will be touching each other when you spot weld it back in. Get some SEM weld through primer, it is the best for trouble free welds.

The most important thing on this job is to get the "new" panel to fit PERFECT so the holes where you are going to spot weld fit PERFECTLY FLUSH. And the metal is PERFECTLY CLEAN out side of the weld through primer( jsut one easy coat, and do it the day before you will be welding for the solvent to be totaly flashed off)

There is most likely some spray in foam between the panels, just remove it ALL so you don't start it on fire. Just get the mating surfaces clean, only worry about the welding. There is plenty time and ways to replace the foam or other insulation. Post anything you come up with. Good luck. (the definition of of LUCK is when preparation meets opportunity)


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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

[This message has been edited by MARTINSR (edited 05-21-2001).]

I'm using the type of spot weld cutter that does not drill a hole all the way through, should I still go from opposite sides? I planned to take them off the same way (holes on the top) then just weld up the holes to make new spot welds. If not, I would have to drill a new set of holes, or get a real spot welder.

I'm sure I'll have more questions, the front corners look like they will be tough, it looks like there is some braze in there. My new panel has been acid dipped & E-Coated, so there will be no straggling insulation & seam sealer to worry about.

What about the window clip pins? Since most will be gone with all the other metal repairs around the window, I planned to remove all of them, and use stainless screws, drilling pilot holes for them, just before the paint job, how does that idea sound? (there will undoubtedly be some plastic filler in some areas, that will not allow me to weld on new studs)

As for the window trim clip studs. Don's east coast sells a small screw ,that replaces the welded stud, Make a note of their location around the opening and most important the distance from the inner edge to the stud dismension. Then do the repairs and install new stud/screws.
As for cutting out spotwelds. a lot of ways to skin that cat. I prefer to drill 1/8 in.
holes in the center of the spot weld. the use the pilot as a guide for the spot weld cutter.

LOL



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Wayne
ACES 1556
TCG 186
So many Mustangs
So Little Time