Getting ready to pull body off of convertible. How much POR-15 will it take to paint the frame and what kind of rep work is required?

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67 Malibu Convertible
Bonner Springs, KS
A.C.E.S # 4806
N.C.O.A # 5322
67 Malibu Convertible (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/ragtop67malibu283.jpg)

Okay, I'll take a (long) stab at this. I bought a gallon of semi-gloss black. I sandblasted the frame, rear end, all other suspension components and anything else that attached to the frame or suspension. On the frame I used PORs Metal Ready prep following the directions. This was on a 100 degree day in my driveway. After washing the prep off with water the frame had an even greenish looking rust everywhere. I brushed the POR15 on with a cheap two inch brush very heavily. That means lots of drips so use a large plastic sheet under everything. On the smaller parts I just dipped them into the POR15 and hung them up to dry. This left a drip bump after it dried which doesn't bother me unless it is in the way. In that case I just filed the bump down (inside bolt holes was common). I ended up using a little more than half a gallon, two thirds of the gallon at most. Since then I have done two more rear ends, control arms etc. and used up most of the POR15 except for about a pint.

I have heard complaints on this site about rust appearing after POR15 has been applied and I believe I know the reason why this happens. POR15 MUST BE applied THICK! If you try to brush it out to extend its coverage you diminish its ability to protect the metal. The rear ends I did thickly look great and the one I did thinly to extend coverage has rust spots. Live and learn I guess.

So my .02 is:
Put it on and let it drip! As it dries you can go over it and brush out the drips. After all, you use POR15 for rust protection. If you want show quality looks then use primer and paint. Buy a gallon! After nearly three years mine hasn't gone bad because I always reseal it with a fresh sheet of plastic between the lid and can.

Disclaimer: Your results may vary! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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1967 Malibu
1967 Impala SS396 Conv.

Procrastination is the thief of time. - EDWARD YOUNG
(And I've been ripped off big time!)

I had a southern frame to start with so all I had to do was wire wheel it(you could blast it), clean with a degreaser(marine clean or I just used the purple castrol stuff)which worked great. After that I used their metal etch(kept it soaked for about a 1/2 hour)then rinsed very well(this is important). I then blew it off with air(probably not needed but I wanted to make sure all crevises where dry by the next day so I could paint. I used a brush to apply the por 15 with good results but I have heard others here say that a small foam roller works real well also. I dont agree with putting it on to thick(my opinion) if you put in on to thick and use a brush you will get some brush marks in the paint but I also agree that you dont want to thin to much(if you even have to). In my experiance the por 15 came to me at just the right consistancy. I used 1 qt. which covered my frame twice and just about all of my front suspension twice. I then wanted UV protection so I bought 1 qt. of chassis black and top coated everything once. I only used 1/2 the qt of the chassis black but I did have to thin it a bit to brush it on and still get smooth results. I called por and they instructed me to only use there solvent to thin and to thin a very little at a time to get it to the right consistancy. If I didnt already buy some solvent they said they would of sent me a little(didnt need much) but for 8.00 I would order some when you order the paint that way if you need some you wont have to wait till the following week for it to come in the mail, plus if you get it on anything you dont want it on the solvent will take it right off(thats if you dont wait till it's already dried). If I can help any more either e-mail or post again and I'll see if I can answer. PS the whole frame assembly turned out way better than factory. The paint is as tough as nails and I'm real happy with the whole out come. Oh ya one more thing do what por tells you and follow thier directions, some guys didnt and the results were paint would peel off. There I'm done Whew!!! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/tongue.gif

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Proud owner of a 66 chevelle thats in the middle of restification Nick a.k.a POPS
Member #387

just a tip on the last thing you said Garyb,
primer or paint will not stick to por-15. you need to get por-15's tie-coat primer. then you can paint over it otherwise the primer and paint will end up flaking right off.

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He who dies with the most toys wins. www.EINSTYN.com (http://www.EINSTYN.com) TC#1460, VCEA#2
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1970 Chevelle 454 Wagons

Should I buy a gallon of the Marine clean and Metal Ready, or will the 20 oz bottle work for each. I plan on doing the frame, radiator core support and rearend. Does the gallon bottle come with a spray handle or do you drush it on too?

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67 Malibu Convertible
Bonner Springs, KS
A.C.E.S # 4806
N.C.O.A # 5322
67 Malibu Convertible (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/ragtop67malibu283.jpg)

I don't know how RM labs sells there stuff today. You may be better off just calling them and asking questions. My Metal Ready came in a gallon can just like paint thinner.
I put it into a sprayer bottle (old windex bottle) to apply it. I used most of the gallon because it was so hot and dry I had to keep adding more to keep the frame wet.

Also, when I said primer and paint I meant INSTEAD of POR15, not OVER POR15. Sorry if that wasn't clear.

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1967 Malibu
1967 Impala SS396 Conv.

Procrastination is the thief of time. - EDWARD YOUNG
(And I've been ripped off big time!)

I'd buy a gallon of each. When I bought mine in gallon form they sent me a new empty spray bottle with the purchase at no cost. I did mine in the garage and still used quite a bitt of the gallon.

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Proud owner of a 66 chevelle thats in the middle of restification Nick a.k.a POPS
Member #387