Is there any trick to getting a dual-feed line connected to a Holley successfully without it leaking all over the place? It doesn't seem to matter how tight things are -- I've still got a leak from at least one side...

We've got a Holley 4160 (3310-2) that has dual fuel inputs. I bought the proper hard dual-feed line. I'm using adapters on each side (that came with the line) to connect the larger hole on the Holley side to the smaller/standard screw-in nipples on the line side. There is a thin washer that goes on the big hole (Holley) side. One of these continues to leak regardless of what I do.

Should I be putting anything else in there? Threadlock or something? Or should there be a gasket of some kind maybe? I'm just hunting for anything here that I might be missing -- because I just can't get it any tighter without risk of stripping things...

Any ideas/hints/suggestions?

Thanks!

- John...

I know its not "right" but I've always used a little bit of teflon tape on the threads and never had a problem with leaks.

Is the leak at the inverted flare nut seal?

You shouldn't need it BUT you can get little flare washer gaskets/seals made of soft copper from any refrigeration wholesale parts house.

Put one between the flare on the line and the mating fitting.

I guess you're talking about a "Cal Custom type" hard line with flare fittings? I have never been able to make them seal properly. You can't use tape, as they need to seal at the flare. Dean's tip could work, but I think the problem is that they will always be a bit off, depending on the bowl gasket thickness, how you tighten the bowl screws etc, so the braided hose type is much better IMO. On my last Holley DP, I had Mopar in-line filters that fit directly in the bowls, hooked up to regular fuel hose and a standard hardware store T connecting the two lines. Never had a problem with leaks, and it also added some extra filtration directly at the carb. Can't remember the part number for those filters, but I can probably find out if you're interested.

I bought one from Summit and turned out the flare wasn't made right. I retured for another one and hasn't leaked yet. Look at your flare on your line and determine if it right or wrong.

I even had a Holley brand that leaked. Ever since all this junk is made overseas....... well, you get my point. I finally had to get one of the Bling Bling braided hose versions (again made in China I'm sure) but since it would flex, it didn't leak. Man, what ever happened to quality?

Watch that flex hose. I've seen too many of 'em where the rubber swells up and squeezes through the braid--just before catastrophic failure and then the fire department shows up and puts out the engine fire.

I tired several more times to get this to work without leaking and never had any luck -- the flare nut seals look fine, but just must not be closing all the way.

A local shop recommended some tiny o-rings that fit in between the ends. I put those in and it now seems great -- no leaks. Should I run like this? Or will the fuel eat away the o-rings or anything like that that I should worry about?

- John...

John,it should be fine with the o-rings

O-rings should seal the same as the soft copper gaskets if you can keep them in place but I would think that would be almost impossible to do with no stub out past the flare to contain them.

The o-rings fit just perfectly inside the hole of the adapter that goes into the carb. So, I just push them in a bit and they sat -- then put the feeds into those and tightened. So far, still no leaks -- even with the car finally running! :)

- John...

Good to know (for next time) :)