Well i got a few questions. First off i had a shift kit installed (i wanted the street/strip but i think they put in the RV) so it barely feels like it shifts (that question will be assessed later in the post). Plus when i rebuilt the engine i put a Hughes 30 torque converter on (the guy at Hughes said it would be about 2800 to 3000 stall) so driving on the street i dont hit above 3000 and is that when it is supposed to shift now according to the new torque converter or what does the 3000 stall really do im kinda confused on that? I have never drove a car with a higher stall torque converter so i dont know how it "should" act.
Also driving down the highway at about 65 it sits at about 2800 RPM or so and it just never seems to shift when i get on the interstate but my mechanic told me to shift it manualy and if it actually shifts then its ok and it does, but out driving i can never tell if it shifts (ie. drop in RPM or a jolt when i get on it).
Lastly the tranny seems to run hot (i guess) it sits at about 210 or so (on the highway on a cool night) and that is with a big B&M cooler on there. Any advice?? Thanks for all the help.

Assumed you had a 350 or 400 turbo.
when installing a shift kit you do two thing. One is you remove specific small round flow restrictors (look like a be-be) from different locations. Secondly you use a drill bit to hog out holes in the valve body. If you got the R/V kit instead of the street / strip then they probably didnt remove anything or didnt hog out the hole enough for you. The larger the hole the harder the shift. You could probably get a new kit and do it yourself but not sure if you have to remove the tranny to do it.
The stall works off engine torque. With varying amounts of torque a stall converter will act differently behind different engines. The thing a stall converter is suppossed to do is allow the engine to get to its power band before allowing the tranny to start to engage. If you had a monster big block and this stall then it would act completely different than if you had a stock 350 and the same stall.
The extra heat is being caused by the stall. When you add the stall the tranny puts off a lot of extra heat because of slippage.
You can go to www.ChevyHighPerformance.com under tech articles. I know they have articles on installing and choosing a stall converter and how they work.

The only recommendations I can give you is these:
1. check into maybe redoing the shift kit to get the hard shifts you want.
2. check into optimising your cam / engine / stall converter combination. not sure if it would mean changing the cam or changing the converters or what (didnt have enough info)
3. you could add a small electric fan to the cooler for the tranny. Summit or Jegs sell them. Always could try to find one in the junk yard that is small enough to be rigged to blow on the transmission cooler.

good luck, hope this helps :)

Jonathan

Thanks for the help man, I have a TH350. And a tech guy at HUGHES (the manufacturer of the torque converter), is the one that took ALL my info on my engine, cam,and rear end and he factored in the fact gears as 3.73s b/c that is what im gonna put in it, i just dont have the money yet so im still running stock gears like 3.23 or 3.08 if that could make a difference, but the guy at Hughes took all my info and told me this torque converter would be the one i need for everything!! Im thinking of switching to an electric fan and then prolly put a small pusher on the cooler. All it is, is the fact that im not sure it shifts at all on the interstate and the RPMS are only at like 2600-2800 at about 65 or so, so i dunno that if its a 3000 stall is that gonna affect when it shifts and then just becuase i havent wound it past 3000 that is why it doesnt seem to shift? Any other info you need from me to hlep me out just ask, i dunno what you would need to know to help. Also what is an ideal tranny temp for mine to run at? Thanks a lot!!

Looked up the converter and it looks to be about a 3000 stall. With you cruise rpm right around that you may be riding around with the converter unlocked. That means internally half of the converter is spinning like mad and the other half is spinning a lot slower. Makes for some really high fluid temps. Transmission should be running at about 175 degrees under normal operation. Anything higher than that and the fluid and internal parts begin to break down.
If you are only at 2500-2800 rpms at 65 then you are probably in high gear. How about put it in low and row through the gears one time to see if it is shifting. Might want to do this somewhere away from civilization because if you drive like me then its gonna be illegal. :)
If it is shifting then you probably only need to address the high temperature. Go ahead and install the fan asap and if you want change the 5 quarts of fluid and strainer. Just cheap insurance to keep the tranny running longer.
You can use the following formulas to find the gear ratio you now have and the cruise rpm you will be at with the 3.73 gears.

Gear ratio = (rpm x tire diameter) / (Mph x 336)
RPM = (gear ratio X mph X 336) / (tire diameter)

Hope this helps :)

Jonathan

High stall converters tend to soften the shift under light to medium acceleration. While driving with the engine under the stall of the converter, the converter is slipping. This generates heat, sometimes a lot of heat. The B&M cooler should be enough to dump the heat. How are the cooling line routed, do they go through the radiator? Make sure the lines are routed in the right direction. IIRC, the upper connection at the trans is the return line (hopefully, this will be corrected if wrong). So the bottom line (out from trans) should go to the lower radiator connection. The upper line from the rad goes to the cooler (I don't think which connection matters) and the return line from the cooler goes to the upper connection on the trans. If you have a vertical flow radiator, with the trans cooler at the bottom of the radiator, I don't think it matters which connection at the radiator is used. If the ATF is hot with this setup, then something could be wrong with the trans.

As quickcam said, the idea behind a high stall is to let the engine get into the power range at launch. They also lessen the load placed on the engine at idle. Engines with large cams make very little power at idle, much less than a stock engine. The trans will shift at whatever rpm it is programed to shift at. This is controlled by the governor (reading driveshaft rpm) and the modulator (reading engine load via a vacuum line). The stall doesn't matter.

As for the shift kit, when I bough my 67, it had an incorrectly B&M kit. Whoever installed it did part RV and part street/strip. It took several seconds to shift from 2 to 3. Your's could be installed wrong. Do you know what brand kit was used? There are a lot of ways to modify the shift characteristic of a trans and some are better than others. The TransGo kit is generally said to be the best. The B&M is considered by many to be the worst. You may need to reinstall the kit. While I haven't done very many kits, I don't think you have to "hog out" any passages in the valve body. With some kits the separator plate is drilled.

Well im pretty sure i routed the cooler lines right and im just not sure how they are i mean i havent looked at them in a while, it usually about 175 or so when driving around town and i have shifted manually and that was fine, that is what my mechanic told me to do. He said he spent quite a while setting the governer and the vacuum modulator and so forth. Im just thinking that with the shift kit (b and m rv and street/strip package) that it might not have got put in correctly and stuff. If the tranny is shifting properly through the gears when i do it manually what might be the problem? Thanks a lot guys. Any help or recomendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again.