I'm getting close to primer application on my filler/glaze work. I've gone up to a 220 paper, and I'd like to know exactly what the intended use of hi-build primer is. I know that sounds like it should be obvious, but my interest is to have a properly prepared surface on the filler. Should I expect that the (PPG K-36 from memory, could be K-38) primer will fill minor ripples and imperfections in the glaze coat that I'm blocking with the 220 paper, or do I need to get it smoother? I've wet a rag with DX-330 wax and grease remover several times to apply it to the sanded filler. It gives a nice reflective surface when you sight down the panel and reveals as much imperfection as paint would. I don't imagine I'm doing any harm to the glaze with this, but am I being too critical for something the primer will take care of?
Thanks,
Rich

Rich a primer surfacer is meant to correct any minor surface imperfection.

I feel no need to farther sand with anything more then 180-220 when doing filler.

Before appling any type of paint product you should blow off the surface with compressed air. Also a wipe down with surface cleaner is a good idea. You will be amazed by how much more junk you remove. Just dont go overboard and have that rag dripping with cleaner all you need is a nice damp rag and be SURE to wipe it dry with a clean DRY rag. If you allow that cleaner to dry on the surface it can lead to paint problems. So make sure you wipe it dry.

Also since you are wiping over filler its a good idea to allow that cleaner to fully evaporate from that filler. Allow a few minutes before you prime, dont just wipe on the cleaner wipe off thenn prime. Allow it some breathing time.

Since you mentioned it both K36 and K38 are primer surfacers produced by PPG. I prefer the k38 over K36 just my personal opinion.

Once you apply that surfacer its best to dry sand with 180-220 and besure to use a guide coat to highlight any low/high spots. A SWEET product is 3M's dry guide coat, one word AWESOME!! Since am feeling slightly nicer then normal theres the part number 05861.

Thanks for the response. My intervals tend to be days, not minutes as this is a hobby for me and time is when I can find it.
I have been using the 3M dry guidecoat and it certainly is a fantastic product. When it remains in one spot-no doubt about it, that's a low spot!
Love it!
Thanks,
Rich

Shouldnt this primer be applied in one coat and let flash so no solvents are trapped instead of applying several coats in one spot before drying?Just asking.

Proper atomization and flash time ARE very important. You want to spray med wet coats and allow plenty of flash.

Rich, one thing Eric mentioned that is VERY, VERY important, let that surface cleaner TOTALLY evaporate for quite a while. Polyester filler will SUCK it up and trap it. This is why I hardly ever wipe my filler work with wax and grease remover. If I do, it is a very fast, weak cleaner that isn't going to soak in.

But really, wiping down with a clean rag and blowing with air is going to clean it good enough. Unless you have been spraying silicone or working on the filler while eating an In-&-Out bacon cheeze burger you don't have anything to worry about.

If you use a fast cleaner, it sure isn't going to hurt anything, but still be aware of the possiblilty of it soaking in.
Allow it to evaporate off REAL GOOD.

Brian, I was using the DX-330 to provide a relective surface to see the ripples! I realize now that that is not a good idea, but time is no problem. It will be a week or more before I prime. I asked the question b/c I thought maybe I was being too critical about the small imperfections in the 220 sanded glaze. I'm thinking that two coats of hi-build primer blocked smooth should provide enough thickness to overcome these imperfections. Am I correct?
Thanks,
Rich

Rich, you can wipe down the filler with surface cleaner just dont go overboard with it.

If you do wipe it just allow it some breathing time before you apply ANYTHING over it.

If you go with k36 I normally apply 3-4 coats, depends if I have enough mixed up for a 4th coat. But normally its just 3 coats.

If you go with k38 3 coats is plently as it has more film build then k36.

You might find that after sanding that surfacer you missed a few spots and need to reapply more surfacer. If you do, dont worry its NO big deal...Eric

OK, I got it.
Thanks,
Rich