Problems Polishing Stainless [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Problems Polishing Stainless


ETD66SS
Jun 8th, 02, 7:55 AM
I'm restoring the wing window assemblies for my 66. I sent off all the steel pieces to be rechromed (the large die cast frame & the trim that gets "glued" to the vent glass)

I decided to try and straighten & polish the stainless portions of the assembly (the trim that slides onto the stamped steel frame)

I've straightend the pieces, and now I'm in the process of removing the scratches & buffing.

I start with 400 grit, and go all the way up to 2000 grit, then I buff with staunless compound, tripolli & then a final coloring compound. The problem is, once I get to 1000 grit sandpaper, it does not cut enough to remove the 600 grit sanding scratches, and when I get to 2000 grit, its like using plain paper, the stainless is too hard!

I buffed the hell out of the pieces, so much that I thinned one of the pieces out until I burt through!

The trim looks good from about 12" away, but when yoou inspect it very closely and compare it to the newley chromed and polished pieces, you can still see sanding scratches. I'm afraid that sunlight will hit these scratches & bring them out.

How do I get rid of these fine scratches?

Don_Lightfoot
Jun 8th, 02, 10:24 AM
That's a bummer. In all the buffing I've done over the years I don't think I've ever started with 400 grit which is fairly course. I always start with the more fine papers and then work toward more coarse if the fine doesn't do it.

Having said this, I would think the scratches would come out as you moved to the finer paper.

Just a note on your compounds. You shouldn't be using Tripoli on Stainless, it's geared toward aluminum and softer metals. Also, your sequence is incorrect. Buffing stainless steel should start with Emery compound using a Sisal wheel, then move to Stainless compound using a Spiral Sewn wheel and then the final Rouge compound with a Loose Section or Flannel wheel.

This hasn't solved your problem but just a few comments worth noting. Good luck.



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ACES #4241, TC #947
69 SS Sedan (http://www.angelfire.com/rock/69ss)
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ETD66SS
Jun 8th, 02, 10:55 AM
Well, I just rebuffed with the sisal & Emery, then a spiral & stainless, then flannel & the Eastwood "white" compund. I removed the scratches, but there are a fair amount of "pock" marks in the finished product. The shine is very nice & smooth now, but the "pock" marks are so deep I don't think they can be removed. The "pock" marks are not very noticeable, but the peices are not perfect, I want them perfect.

I guess I would need new cores which have no corrosion.