What primer should I buy ? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: What primer should I buy ?


68Elkie
Apr 29th, 04, 10:51 PM
I've searched and read lots of posts, but am still confused.

I'm going to take a few panels down to bare metal. I want to prime them so they'll hold up until I can take the car in to a local shop to weld in some patches and get it painted. What primer should I use? I have a 5 hp compressor and a generic paint gun and touch-up gun that I plan to use. There are Sherwin Williams and Dupont stores near by.

I've used spray can primers in the past, but get rust through in a few weeks. These are some of the areas I'd like to fix once and for all.

1Quik7D
Apr 29th, 04, 11:15 PM
Without a doubt, my vote would be for epoxy.

MARTINSR
Apr 29th, 04, 11:35 PM
I'm not a big epoxy fan, but I am with Quik, for this project it's epoxy.

68Elkie
Apr 29th, 04, 11:37 PM
Is that it? What kind of questions would I get if I walked into a paint store and asked for "epoxy primer." It can't be that easy...?

chevelle68malibu
Apr 30th, 04, 1:24 AM
Well, it may or may not be available in your area, but im using PPG's DP epoxy primer. DP90LF to be exact (black). It comes in like 6 different colors and they can be mixed (ultimately you can make any color). Just 2 parts of the DPLF and 1 part of its catalyst (geeze whats the name of the catalyst....hold on running downstairs to look....ah here we go, DP402LF...) put it in spray gun and go! I have my whole chevelle in it, and it has been for about 12 months total, has sat in the rain for many a day while im at school or something, and it is holdin out great. It will cover over bare metal, old paint, anythin...its hella durable, very smooth finish, and can be bondo'd on top of and covered with basically any other paint product... SO, some may say its not good to drive in the stuff forever...whatever, its worked for me. The stuff is relatively cheap too... Anyways, most companys will have a product that is basically the same thing, so go to the store and ask em! HOpe it helps.. graemlins/beers.gif

MARTINSR
Apr 30th, 04, 9:54 AM
Sherwin Williams PSE4600 is gray epoxy and PSE4601 is black. DuPont doesn't have anything quite like as far as I know. They have some monster epoxy called Corlar that I don't like at all, it is designed for fleet work. Basically painting diesel rigs.

PPG, are the epoxy people as Chevelle68Malibu said.

jon65
Apr 30th, 04, 6:36 PM
Martinsr,
Why are you not a fan of epoxy? Does it not hold up as well as other products? I am thinking of sandblasting the driprail nooks and crannies and the front and rear winshield channels to get out the pitted rust then applying a PPG etch primer, then epoxy over the etch. Then I would do my putty work where needed. Is this the wrong approach?
Jon

MARTINSR
Apr 30th, 04, 9:02 PM
Jon, there is nothing "wrong" at all with it. In fact, that is a super way to do it. I just don't like how epoxy sands, I don't like how it is more of a primer/sealer, and has no filling or surfacing qualities to speak of.

I just like etch and urethane primer over that. However, I am leaning towards trying on my next project here at home to epoxy prime the bare metal and do any filler work over it.

68Elkie
Apr 30th, 04, 10:21 PM
If epoxy doesn't have any filling properties, will I have problems if I use it directly over bare metal that I sanded down with 80 grit? Is it difficult to block sand epoxy? If I'm preparing an entire panel for final paint, is there another filler primer I should use?

MARTINSR
Apr 30th, 04, 10:30 PM
If you are preparing a bare metal fender for paint, personally it is etch primer, then a urethane. You sand the urethane with 500 or so (depending on the tech sheet recommendations on the paint you are using) and paint it. The epoxy "may" fill those scratches, but urethane WILL fill them.

LXS
May 1st, 04, 12:22 AM
Not tryin to high jack the post or anything, but, how would I go about taking the old paint off my Velle? It's got I don't know how many layers of white paint over the original blue or green, not sure which. If I go about it by sanding, what grit is best to use? Do I just use one "size" grit? or do I go from a really rough one to eventually a softer one? What do you guys think about aircraft thinner? My dad highly recommends it, but, then again, he's no body repairman. tongue.gif ...what other techniques or recommendations are there? Thanks in advance! :D

ChevysRus
May 1st, 04, 1:15 AM
You guys are scary or else it just goes without saying........those DP epoxy primers are deadly if you don't have correct respirator or air supply. Don't just mix it and pour it into your gun and then go at it! I've used the DP-40 and find it great stuff as a base primer over clean bare metal.

My favorite trick is the DP-90 (Black) on frames then just clear coat the primer with a little hardner. Turns out great, high gloss and easy to wipe down. Most of the time a little harder to chip too.

I am sure you all know about the risk and need for proper respirator or air supply when working with epoxy primers. If not, then do some research as it could easily save your life at worse case and maybe quality of life in less serious cases, but you all know that.

MARTINSR
May 1st, 04, 1:34 AM
I don't want to give the wrong impression, but epoxy is not as dangerous as the "clear with hardener" you are spraying on the frame.
Epoxy is isocyanate free, the iso's in your clear coat hardener are MUCH more dangerous.

This doesn't mean you shouldn't protect youself with the same diligence using either one, but the epoxy is "less" hazardous than the clearcoat with hardener.

ChevysRus
May 1st, 04, 1:28 PM
OK I certainly bow to your knowledge being far greater than mine, The guy at the paint store just scared the hell out of me about it and maybe he just wanted to sell me the better respirator! LOL

Basically, all of it is something I don't want to suck in anyway, so better to be overly conservative about it, but to each his own. Also I first used the DP-40 stuff about 12 years ago and maybe todays stuff is cleaned up a little, but back then it was suppose to "melt the lining of your lungs". Got my attention that's for sure! Been very careful with it ever since.

MARTINSR
May 1st, 04, 2:18 PM
Originally posted by ChevysRus:

Basically, all of it is something I don't want to suck in anyway, so better to be overly conservative about it, but to each his own. Also I first used the DP-40 stuff about 12 years ago and maybe todays stuff is cleaned up a little, but back then it was suppose to "melt the lining of your lungs". Got my attention that's for sure! Been very careful with it ever since. That is exactly what I said, I just like FACTS and the facts are epoxy is "safe" with a PROPER fitting, quality charcoal respirator designed for "organic vapors". ANY product containing isocyanates like urethanes and enamels with hardener need a "fresh air system", a charcoal respirator is not safe (as deemed by government employee safety agencies).

This is one of the reasons epoxies for home use are a better idea. There are also iso free "urethane type" primers like PPG's NCP270 that work well without the danger of iso's.

I am not challenging you or your information, I am simply presenting more facts on the subject. graemlins/beers.gif

feedphillipnow
May 1st, 04, 8:08 PM
Hey LXS
I think there are alot of past posts on Paint strippers. Unless you wanna break out the bucks to have it media blasted, but that supposedly does some damage. Just buy a gallon of Jalco paint removed or something from OSH/ Home Depot, and paint that crap on... it will bubble up real nice, then use a paint scraper. I hear this can take body fillers with it, so if you arent planning on that far down... better watch it smile.gif

Im glad this primer post was started I am getting ready to prime all my panels, half of them are brand new, the other half sanded and primed. I havent shot any high grade primer yet, I want to time it close to the paint. Driving around in primer isnt my thing for a daily driver , plus who knows when it will get the paint! So I'll do it all in the same couple of weeks. I will be using a charcoal air breather, I didnt know that epoxy's need a clean air respirator, I Miiiight have found out when I buy the stuff in the near future, but those guys dont inform too much when selling it. Im glad I popped in, I hope you guys post more about primers. Mayeb about the color to use too? It strongly depends on what color paint is shot too, right?

LXS
May 2nd, 04, 3:42 PM
I have no knowledge of paints and primers, but, as stupid as this may sound, reading about all the info on using breather devices, does the same "rule" apply if you paint your car outside?...like your backyard? I know it's not the smartest way of painting, because of the obvious reasons of dust, dirt, etc....I'm not trying to give my car no show winning paint job....I'd just like to strip off all the paint, and use some type of primer that will make my car look uniform and prevent any rust that could occur in it's present state. I've heard that you can use Rustoleum and it will protect your metal better then normal primer. Is this true? Or am I better off putting out the bucks and getting some of that DP45 or whatever number it is? I'm looking to paint/primer my car black. Thanks in advance for any and all input graemlins/beers.gif

Slowpoke70
May 4th, 04, 12:41 AM
ditto to what LXS says except i'm gonna leave my car in primer for a good while. i just cant stand the damaged paint on rite now. but i do want rust protection. and is the there some type of flat clear that i can spray on top of the primer to help with the rust protection?

fat jonny
May 4th, 04, 1:45 PM
For what it's worth, I just did the same thing you are in the process of doing with similar equipment and no prior experience. The guy at the paint store sold me Nason Selectprime (Dupont's cheap stuff), which is a 2K urethane primer/surfacer. It was only about $85 including the activator and It was very easy to use and sand and worked very well for me bfore the topcoat (which was Dupont Chromabase and Nason Clearcoat), I used Nason 1K sealer. I have heard very reputable sources like MartinSR say that a 2K sealer is superior to 1K but for a guy on a budget it seemed to work fine. Keep in mind though that I have nothing else to compare it to, whereas many of the gurus on this board have used just about everything on the market! Just my $.02. Good Luck!

68Elkie
May 4th, 04, 8:20 PM
This is about where I got confused reading all the other posts out there. I was almost convinced that I needed to go buy an epoxy primer, but didn't like that it's harder to sand. Now that Fat Jonny chimed in with his no experience, same equipment, and 2K Urethane Primer/Surfacer, I'm definitely leaning that way.

So, Jonny, how'd the finish turn out? Pics?

Also, what's with the 1K Sealer - where/when does that go on ?