I was looking through a stack of old magazines and found one with an article about Hot Rods to Hells' truck arm rear suspension system for the Chevelle. Have any of you used one of these before? What are the ups & downs of a system like this?

Ups...it's better than what you have.

Downs....way too much money for what you are getting, there are better alternatives that cost less, even in it's packaged form it still requires some cutting/welding/fabrication to install.

...there are better alternatives that cost less...

Better alternatives that cost less, but that I have to fabricate or have fabbed for me?

I'm looking for something that I can buy and install w/o a lot of hassle (a little hassle is allright). I don't know how to weld (yet), nor do I have access to a machine shop if I need to make something fit.

You've already got me convinced on the Fatman front spindles, but now I need something out back to balance out the whole package.

The plan with the car is to drive the wheels off the thing. I'm gonna' drive it to work, take it to the dragstrip, autocross it (that is, if I can get the thing to corner decently), you name it. I'm building it to drive, not just to cruise.

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Better alternatives that cost less, but that I have to fabricate or have fabbed for me?

I'm looking for something that I can buy and install w/o a lot of hassle (a little hassle is allright). I don't know how to weld (yet), nor do I have access to a machine shop if I need to make something fit.


You will either have to do the design fabrication or pay someone else to do it. A well designed 3-link could be custom designed and built by a shop for under 3K, about what an HTH kit would cost after paying someone to install it.

You will either have to do the design fabrication or pay someone else to do it. A well designed 3-link could be custom designed and built by a shop for under 3K, about what an HTH kit would cost after paying someone to install it.

To me, it seems like the best possible suspension without any real major fab work would be exactly what Dennis is running...

Edelbrock adjustable uppers with spherical bearings on the frame end, and Wolfe Racecraft bushings in the housing.

Wolfe Racecraft lowers with spherical in both ends (basically the same as what Dennis runs)

Then just pick a spring and shock that suits your needs. I don't know how it'd compare for handling vs. the truck arms, but it would be a lot cheaper.

For autocrossing, to stay cheap I just put in Moog HD springs 5536 in front and 5374 in back, cut a half coil out of the front and put in KYB gas a just shocks (these are for the BBC, the SBC front HD's are different number.) I am running a 1 1/4 bar front bar in both cars and a 1 inch bar in back of the small block. All rubber. $200 in springs, 120 in shocks, 120ish for the bar but should have used the $25 2nd gen WS-6 bar.

Could it be better? Yes. Does it matter as much as the driver? No. Seat time is what makes you a better driver. Just go and do it!!

Pics from April 29th.
http://www.solo2.org/gallery/albums/54/34.aspx
http://www.solo2.org/gallery/albums/54/32.aspx
http://www.solo2.org/gallery/albums/54/33.aspx

John

PS - the driver fender is slightly mis-aligned normally. The cage nuts are freely spinning and if I fix that fender, it will kick off a two year restoration project that I don't have the money for right now!!! ;)

Man I love seeing that! Big old iron tearing up the solo course!

BTW, there's an awful lot of dead cones in that last shot! :-)