Ok long story short; my neighbor owns a 1970 Chevelle SS 396 automatic and it has some engine problems but is in fantastic shape otherwise. He knows I work on my car and other peoples cars and wants me to fix his car, only thing is I have never worked on older american cars. My dad used to do it and says they're very easy to work on but he's forgotten a lot.

Anyways I took the car for a quick test drive and it has very little power and I think it is a ignition problem. It also seemed to run very rich (smelled gas really bad even my dad said that). Talked to him and I don't think he's even changed the spark plugs in 6 years! So definitely going to replace the spark plugs, wires, and maybe the distributor? Should I stay with stock distributor or aftermarket performance electronic one?

Also the ride was pretty bad the steering wheel vibrated a lot and suspension felt all worn out. What can I do about this, any suspension kits/replacements?

So basically:
What sparkplugs to get?
What ignition wires to get?
Replace distributor?
How to fix suspension?
Can you think of anything else that might be wrong from my description?

Thank You any info is greatly appreciated!

Well, this may come as a suprise to you since you have not worked on older cars - there are points inside that distributor. Points do not last six years!

Six years on the plugs - refresh the points, rotor, cap, ignition wires, and plugs - that should wake things up. Your local auto parts store will list the plugs, or you could pull a sample plug and get the same thing. If you do not have a dwell meter to set the points, then just go with .019.

Start off with what you know needs replacement, post back if refreshening the ignition does not clear things up.

As to the ride and suspension, if you are unsure of what to look at then just take it to a shop for an inspection. Old lumpy tires could be a problem, or it could have genuinely worn out suspension. You might not be used to how an older car drives - no rack and pinion steering, no struts or fancy shocks, etc.

Thomas

Get AC Delco plugs. Basicly whatever the computer tells you to get.

For spark plug wires try to find some that arnt surge-supression. Go with ones like MSD Heli-coil or something equal from Taylor, Mallory, Accel, etc.

If it still has a points distributer, you could swap in an HEI distributer (came in 74+ chevy v8's until they switched to computer carbs and FI). But chances are you'll get it running fine with just new cap, rotor, points and condensor and setting the timing.

You can buy replacement rubber bushings and suspension parts at any parts store. If you want to upgrade many companies sell performance suspension parts. I've had good luck with PST (performance suspension technologies).

Lack of power could be a lot of things. Be sure to check out the carb to make sure its not leaking either fuel or vacuum. Check for vacuum leaks other places on the motor. And be sure to check the timing and easy to spot things like air cleaner, etc.

My dad used to do it and says they're very easy to work on but he's forgotten a lot.
Tell dad I know how he feels...though I still remember gas under a quarter a gallon.

F.W.I.W. ...

I replaced my stock points ignition with Crane's XR-i module, which replaces the mechanical points and condenser assembly under the distributor cap (rotor). The module mounts where the points were, and is a "hall effect" sensor that gets it's signal off the distributor shaft's cam. It was a VERY simple installation, the hardest part was inserting the rubber dust grommet into the distributor's base!!! Two small wires come of the module and connect to each side of the coil. I also installed Crane's "Fireball" ignition coil and "Firewire" spark plug wires at the same time, the wires are 8 or 8.5 mm I think, but they DID fit snuggly in the stock valve cover looms. All you have to do after the install is set the timing and you're done. Retains the stock look if that's what your friend is going for...besides...it sounds like some routine tune-up parts are in order (plugs, front end rebuild, etc.)

Also...

I second Bomber '67's advice on the front end...if you're not sure what to look for, have your friend take it to a reputable, professional repair shop for inspection and service. A steering wheel vibration could be something as simple as a missing wheel balancing weight(s), or as critical as a tie rod end on the verge of failure or seperation, something that would be very bad to the car's occupants on the highway...

UPDATE!

Ok guys I've been working on this car and there is definitely a improvement in power. What I've done so far is...

Install a new carb and tune it.
Replaced spark plugs.
Put lucas total tuneup cleaner in gas (highly recommended to me since there was so much carbon on the old sparkplugs!)
And timed the distributor better.

Wierd thing with the distributor though...
I had my dad do this part and we got it to run a lot better but he said he had to turn it a lot more to see any type of result than normally. We never got it to ping or anything either. Why would the distributor need to be turned so far to see any type of effect?

We tried using a timing gun (not sure what it's called) and the needle position didn't make any sense. He thinks the distributor was never correctly installed by teh previous owner so we just did trial and error drives till it got better. We expected it to start pining at some point but that never happened?

Another wierd thing is the left side exhaust has almost no gasses coming out of it while the right side has a lot of gas/airflow. What could cause this? Clogged exhaust?

Dang I wish someone could help us in person...

A distributor that has never been correctly installed will cause bad running problems. But if the engine hasnt been touched for this long, and he has been driving it like that all this time. Im sure the distributor needs some work itself too. You cant drive a car long before things start breaking with a distributor off. Maybe one tooth.

I would at least get a factory repair manual, use it to find #1 on the cap, pull #1 spark plug and get the engine up to TDC compression stroke. Remove cap and see if the rotor is pointing to #1 terminal. Thats a good start if it was me.

Upgrading the points is a very wise idea too.

The distributor in it is not the orignal though! It is a unilite electronic distributor. The car runs fine it just doesn't make as much power as it should. And again for some reason the left exhaust has almost nothing coming out while the right side feels like a leaf blower in comparison!

Is the muffler old? You could have a clogged left muffler. It happens when the internal baffles rot and collapse. That could explain the diminished power and lack of exhaust gasses from that pipe. Happens a lot also with cat. converters.

Just a thought.

UPDATE!


Dang I wish someone could help us in person...
If you posted your location, maybe somebody nearby could stop by and make a new friend. good luck. jason.

If you posted your location, maybe somebody nearby could stop by and make a new friend. good luck. jason.

GOOD POINT!!

Though not a requirement, it's common courtesy to list your location in case someone else could use or needs your help, or would be willing to help you in person.

Just as using a name to sign you message is another form of courtesy.;)

I'd drop the pipe on the left side off the header, or replace the left muffler and see if it make a difference. Clogged mufflers are known to happen.

If you posted your location, maybe somebody nearby could stop by and make a new friend. good luck. jason.

Fixed. Done!

Fixed. Done!

What is fixed, done?

Posting your location?

Is the car fixed?

What was the problem?

Dave

I would also check to see if the heat riser in the exhaust is functioning - or at least open. These are very prone to rusting solid in one position. If the car has set around a lot, it is likely frozen (rusted) shut, causing the lack of exhaust output and lack of power. OLDED

What is fixed, done?

Posting your location?

Is the car fixed?

What was the problem?

Dave

TC Seagull?