I just tried POR Metal Mask for the first time. I think I followed the directions correctly, I am applying it over POR-15. The paint was very, very thick in the bottom of the can when I opened it and so I stirred it for many minutes until it was consistent. I applied it with a foam brush as suggested and the "metal" material in the paint did not stay suspended in the paint as I applied it. The finish was very incosistent and areas with good color and other areas with no color to it. I tried to apply it thin as suggested but the paint is somewhat thick and it is tough to apply a thin layer. On one part I continued to run the brush across the paint as it dried and it seemed to help give an even coat, but far from good. I found that the material would seperate in the can while I was painting and so I would stir the paint each time before I dipped the brush.

I will call POR in te morning to see what they suggest. I did not find any info on their website or in the directions.

Anyone that has used this in the past, do you have any suggestions. Were you happy with the final product. If this is the best finish that I can get with this product, I will paint the rest of the parts with grey paint and ditch this stuff. But as usual, I probably need some advice http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif.

Thanks.

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R.J.
1972 Chevelle
TC Member #1525
RJ's website (http://www.buffnet.net/~airrj/)
2003 Northern Chevelle Gathering (http://www.angelfire.com/folk/canam/page35.html)

Just tallked with a POR rep about this last week. Dont use the foam brush with the metal mask. Use a natural hair brush and you need to tap / dab the paint on lightly, not in strokes as you would normally paint. Otherwise the meatlic flakes will not spread even, much like metallic paints for plastic models.

You have to dab/tap that stuff on. Once you get it wet enough to run the metallic flakes in the paint will choose their own path and not spread evenly throughout. Really light coats and dab it, dont brush it on in strokes.

Also, dont paint out of the can. Once that stuff hits air the hardening process begins and you will find the paint in the can will start the reaction process as well. Dump tiny amounts out and do not dump what you do not use back into the POR can. Air is the catalyst (sp?) for that stuff.

Also, foam brushes are recommended for the second coat, when the first is just tacky to ensure no brush marks on in the paint. Dont use the foam on the metal mask and when you use foam for the other paints, use it on the second and additonal coats after that. Dont push down on the brush to expel paint held in the foam (like ringing out a sponge) as it will cause bubbling in the finish. Hope this helps.

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'70 SS 396
4spd, 4.10's and a smile
TC# 1341
ACES# 5388
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[This message has been edited by Midnight Marauder (edited 11-19-2002).]

RJ...
I did all the pieces for the front of my 66, steering knuckles, tierod ends and such and it came out beautifully. I did the marine clean then metal ready then Metal Mask. I knew the look I was going for and kept lightening my coats until I found that look. I used the foam brush trick but just barely wet the tip with paint, then spread the crap out of it. It took about 5 or 6 coats to get the coverage I wanted but I am real pleased with the results, and if you would like to see some pics e-amil me, cause my web site is gone and I have not opened my own album any where else just yet..good luck with your next try..

Mike

Thanks Guys.

I only applied one coat at this point. When I checked them this morning the coverage looked better when dry. I guess I will try some more. I should let one coat tack and then apply the next it soulds like.

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R.J.
1972 Chevelle
TC Member #1525
RJ's website (http://www.buffnet.net/~airrj/)
2003 Northern Chevelle Gathering (http://www.angelfire.com/folk/canam/page35.html)

I used it on my steering components but I had the same issues you're having. it came out good but a lot of work. I have switched over to rattle can silver. It's a lot better for the small stuff, brake lines and touch ups.

John

Chief,

My son and I are starting to restore his 70 chevelle. We are in the process of cleaning as much surface rust as possible and purchased POR 15 to coat the frame and undercarriage. Will be putting all new front end, disk conversion and new rear. From your post you mentioned that you did all your parts with another POR product. Any advise that you can give would be appreciated as this is the first restoration that we are doing. Also if you could send pictures it would give us an idea as to how it looks.

I tried to send you an e mail but it wouldnt go through.

Thanks Kevin

I've used all the POR products but have always sprayed them. The Metal mask went on with one good coat flawlessly. POR 15 also sprays very well as long as you use their thinner and do light coats. For metallic paints such as Metal Mask I would suggest spraying for best results and swirling the paint in the gun canister every minute or so.

Due to the requirement of using their tie coat primers, short shelf life and cost I think I'll be going back to PPG Epoxy primer/sealer instead. I blast all rusted parts before painting anyways so the epoxy should last just as long (cars is not winter driven anyways)

[This message has been edited by Bad67SS (edited 11-21-2002).]

Well I tried again. It went much better this time. I used only the foam brush and I used very little product and kept dabbing it on and continually going over the areas that I last painted. It looks pretty good. However it is a long process to make it look good. For the time invested vs. the quality of the finished look vs. my marginally clean car, I will probably use a gray rattle can next time. However, I still have 97% of a pint left.

Kevin,

Chief mentioned Marine Kleen which is a heavy-duty cleaner/degreaser and Metal-Ready which is a cleaner/surface prep. Check out POR's website. They have a pretty good decription for everything.

Rattle cans way better because you can use it for detailing later. It sucks opening a can of Por for small stuff.

My feelings is that por should only be used for painting over rust and I don't do that! I used for por eveything the first time around, not again

John

[This message has been edited by hilljack2 (edited 11-21-2002).]