I bought a 69 Chevelle this past weekend outside of Austin, and want to get the back of the car up in the air some.

I want it to ride a little high in the back and I will be putting some 295 50 15 tires back there probably on 10 inch rims.

Is there a Lift type spring or will the heavy duty springs work to lift it 2 inches above stock. Im not wanting a aitbag type system, I think my springs are bad anyway cause some one in the past has put some sort of spring lift stuff between the coils of the springs and it just rides level, so it is time for new ones anyway.

Will the moog CC501 add 2 inchs in the back?? What spring will add at least 2'' in the back??

Thank you , and look forward to getting my 69 Chevelle in good condition.

Remy

Try J.C. Whitney's item #zx734444y, gave about 2&1/2" lift on our 1968 when settled...

That is exactly what I need, thank you very much!! Remy

Got these springs installed and have a question, when I go to buy new shocks (need shocks a little longer) what do I ask for with these springs?

My shocks are at thier limits and the back end of teh car is bouncing on the springs only, so Im gonna need some longer shocks I would assume, do I take the shock I have and ask for longer ones???


Also can I get spring rubber mounts locally at a Oreillys etc, cause my stock ones were trashed and I can tell that these springs are gonna wear on the body. Thanks and the springs make the car look mean!! Remy

bump

Bump, still looking for a good shock that is extended some, the ride is not as bad now that the springs have had time to settle some. But a little more room is needed in the shocks over bumps and such.

I assume that picture is with the new springs installed - that's high allright. You may have to physically look at different shocks and makes comparisons. They used to sell a spacer block that went between the upper shock mount and the chassis. I have also used longer bolts at the top and placed steel bushings as spacers to pick up another 1" or so. Also. at that height, your upper arms are possibly binding.

I assume that picture is with the new springs installed - that's high allright. You may have to physically look at different shocks and makes comparisons. They used to sell a spacer block that went between the upper shock mount and the chassis. I have also used longer bolts at the top and placed steel bushings as spacers to pick up another 1" or so. Also. at that height, your upper arms are possibly binding.


Yes, that is the current pic with the big springs. Im worried about the upper arms and the driveshaft angle being to severe like you said.

Is there someone that has done my application that has all the kinks worked out so that I can get some good info as far as what stuff to use to make everything line up?

You can try the No-hop bars that relocate the upper arms on the axle. Jegs and Edelbrock make them.

Driveshaft angle... That I'm not so sure about, maybe someone else can chime in.

David

On the shocks: visit your local full line auto parts supply and see if they have dimensional listings for the shocks they stock. Otherwise just use spacers as suggested.

After fixing the shock length, drive it and drag race it and then report back with any problems. The short answer is that jacking up the rear of the car you now have worse suspension geometry for drag racing - but maybe that is not as important as having the highboy look.

As far as drive shaft angle it now has more driveshaft angle to the differential. Probably not enough to get get very excited over. The bigger issue for you is that the change in the angle of the control arms will more likely induce wheel hop.

Thomas

Instead of different shocks or shock extensions could you relocate the lower shock mount on the diff. to a spot higher on the bracket? I think there's a hole already near the top or drill one to your spec's.

Just a thought!

The other thing that happens with a Chevelle rear suspension is the rear moves forward. U-joint angle is not as bad an issue, unlike a leaf spring car, the pinnion angle changes as the rear moves on an arc with the Chevelle 4 link, although the short uppers quickly reach the limit of travel. I will admit, I have ran them this way years back. If nostalgia style cruising is what you're after, don't get too worried about it, but from a performance point of view, this is about the worst move to make with a 4 liink, unless the control arm frame mounting points are changed to correct the geometry. The way we used to do this was set the ride height that we wanted, then install ladder bars with the suspension supporting vehicle weight. Doesn't really address the changes to the factory suspension, just eliminates the wheelhop problems (and ultimately the breaking parts induced from wheelhop). You also end up with a suspension that has very limited travel, so the ride is terrible, but that is the compromise that comes with a lifted vehicle int he first place.

i had a 67 lemans back in the 70's.
raised it tall like yours.
i used shocks from a full size buick and didn't have any issues.
david

THANK YOU ALL for the great information. This has been some great stuff!

i had a 67 lemans back in the 70's.
raised it tall like yours.
i used shocks from a full size buick and didn't have any issues.
david

Did the shocks you used have the same ends on it that the Chevelle needs? And about what year was the buick? Thanks, Remy

Doesn't really address the changes to the factory suspension, just eliminates the wheelhop problems (and ultimately the breaking parts induced from wheelhop). .

THis is what I am worried about, it is sure to ruin some parts under there with that nasty wheel hop. This sounds like a needed intervention.

Between what you and cobra2411 said, I need to get this taken care of. And I do love the looks and wont be using the car at the track but maybe once or twice a year anyway. Many thanks guys, Remy

remy,
go to the parts store and have them pull some shocks off the shelf for a 67 big buick (electra 225). you will see that they bolt the same way.
then check the collapsed and extended length against shocks for your car and you will see the diff.
david

I may not be seeing this very clearly but how are you going to buy the right shocks and determine the correct shock travel?

I understand you would want them to collapse as far as the stock ones and that the snubber limits that action but how about the extension.

How are you going to determine the extended travel?

In a stock Chevelle the total differential travel is limited by the shock. With a Chevelle on jack stands and the shocks removed the differential only drops to a certain point before the control arms/bushing start binding. With the longer springs the car is already close to the limit and/or control arm bind.

Would you want the shocks to extend farther than the differential will move or would you want the shocks to limit the differential movement, like in a stock configuration? By limiting the travel with the shocks, will the differential move far enough?

Why?

BORDERBUM, i would remove the coils as soon as you can afford new ones. Coming from someone who has had them on for over a year, remove them and don't spend anymore money on the set-up. They are super stiff, increase wheel hop, and make the ride dangerous. I posted a while back to you trying to find the part number for a shock, well, i had the shocks on my car a month and trashed an upper control ar bushing and bent the arm (as stated before, the suspension's arms take the stress when the travel is unlimited) and with increasing the shock length, u are unlimiting the travel. Good Luck

BORDERBUM, i would remove the coils as soon as you can afford new ones. Coming from someone who has had them on for over a year, remove them and don't spend anymore money on the set-up. They are super stiff, increase wheel hop, and make the ride dangerous. I posted a while back to you trying to find the part number for a shock, well, i had the shocks on my car a month and trashed an upper control ar bushing and bent the arm (as stated before, the suspension's arms take the stress when the travel is unlimited) and with increasing the shock length, u are unlimiting the travel. Good Luck


WHat have you done, Have you lowered your car or have you gone another route to keep the big rake?? I love the rake. Remy

What i'm going to do is lower the front and get stock springs for the rear. Also, If you use larger tires, you are increasing the rake and leaving the suspension geometry the same. Also, i started planning things out when i had the wheels off and the lift coils in. No matter what size tire and wheel you get, the wheel wells will NEVER be full. This never really occured to me until i started mocking things up. Good Luck!