I bought two new front fenders for the car about three years ago (not Goodmark). I have decided to paint the car and the fenders need to be aligned better. I followed the "basics" that was on this site. The driver's side is good at the top with the door. The bottom gap is too wide and I can not move it closer. The middle of the fender is about a 1/3 to a 1/2 inch bowed from the door. I tried using a 2X4 and a big hammer to push it in but it did not move and I was afraid to hit it any harder. The pass side looks like I might have the same problem but not as bad.

Any ideas??

As always thanks in advance.

I replaced the word "quarter" with "fender".

[This message has been edited by stevegray (edited 06-24-2002).]

first, they are called fenders not quarters. quarter panels are welded to the body in the rear. as for your alignment problem, take a look at the body bushings. especialy the ones under the firewall. if they are getting squashed, putting new ones or polygraphite ones will bring the body up which will close that gap.

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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder. :D Honk if you love peace and quiet.
Junk is something you've kept for years and throw away three weeks before you need it.
www.EINSTYN.com (http://www.EINSTYN.com) updated 6-7-02 TC#1460, VCEA#2
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1970 Chevelle 454 Wagons

Is the gap problem at the bottom between rocker & fender? or when you say gap are you referring to the fender sticking out at door edge???

If they are repo fenders you will probably never get them to align correctly. I had two sets of the repo and they were terrible, I've scene the new retooled fenders and they are no better. I'm not sure why body bushing would help in aligning fenders(you should have a new set), since no part of the fender mounts across any of the body mounts.

I ended up buying NOS fenders, two weeks ago we assembled the car and the fender fit very nice. They still needed some adjustments, but they fit very well. I have heard that some people have banged around the repo fenders and got them to fit, but it took allot of work.

I agree that repo fenders will most likely not fit very well. That being said, here's a trick you might try. Losen the 2 bolts at the bottom of the fender. Place a floor jack under the frame at about the same position as the fender at the 2 bolts. Jack the car until the wheel ls just off the ground. See if the gap is better. If necessary, have a helper push down at the front of the fender. Be careful not to dent the fender. While applying this pressure, tighten the 2 bolts. It may also be necessary to grind the edge of the bottom of the fender where the bolts go through to get enough adjustment. Good luck.
Gordon VM
Restoration Motorsports http://groups.msn.com/Restorationphotos/shoebox.msnw

The gap is at the bottom between the door and the fender. I had the fenders on before but the top body line did not match up with the same line on the door. I have already grinded most of the bolt holes to get it to fit the first time. I will try the jack trick. Thank you for the replies.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by 70SS:
I'm not sure why body bushing would help in aligning fenders(you should have a new set), since no part of the fender mounts across any of the body mounts.

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The rad support bushings will affect the way the fender mounts.if there worn the front of the fender will sit to low,that will cause the bottom of the fender to be tight.

i explained why the body bushings would make a difference. let me expain it again. if you bring up the body at the firewall, then the gap at the bottom gets smaller and the gap at the top of the fender to door would get bigger. if you took the bushing all the way out the gap at the bottom would get worse. i dont know how to make it clear. you could eliminate the frint radiator bushings or replace them with thinner shims this should achieve a smaller gap at the bottonm of the fender to door. i would just unbolt the body bushings under the firewall. jack up the body slowly. lifting it up from the frame ever so slightly, about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch and watch what it does th the gap. it should make a signifigant difference. once you achieve the level you want, look to see how much taller your bushing needs to be. a new poliurethane bushing might just do it, if not you can add a few shimms above the bushing and under the body. dont put bushings between the top prt of the bushing and the frame. the bushing needs to fit into the frame or it could move on you. if you still dont understand ask a specific question. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

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I couldn't repair my brakes, so I made my horn louder.
4-SALE? I'm considering selling my yellow '70 chevelle if someone is interested $11k.
www.EINSTYN.com (http://www.EINSTYN.com) updated 6-7-02 TC#1460, VCEA#2
. . _________ . . . . . .. _________
.../___---___\ . . ____/|__|__\___\
(OO[=====]OO) {_______________|
.{}.............{}.....O...............O....
1970 Chevelle 454 Wagons

If you have bad bushing, more than likely you will be low on both ends of the fender(like I said "you should replace anyway"). If the fender is bowed out 1/2" at the end of the door and top and bottom of the fender line up, body bushings are not going to help you at all.

The bow is in the middle (between the top and bottom body lines) of the door. I did try taking all the bolts off and them I got the gap right with no bow but when I looked at the front of the fender it was about 3/4 of an inch away from the bolt holes. The old fenders (wish I still had them) came off with no probblems.
Does this sound like the body bushings?

I had the exact same problem with a 70 fender
I finally gave up on it a got a Goodmark repo
which was a much much better fit

I guess that's why the first one was at the swap meet in the first place, someone else had BTDT

I wonder how many times that fender has been bought at a swap meet, tried and resold at the next meet http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

i think if you dont have the big gap at the bottom any more then it is not the body bushings now. but, does that mean you did not even look at them yet? either they are cracked and squashed or not.
if you want to try to salvage that fender maybe you can take it off and try to take a little of the curvature out by gently bending it some how. if nothing else it would make a great lower patch pannel with an inner brace fo someone else. so cant help. good luck

I have not had time to get in the garage yet. I will try this weekend or during the week since I will be on vacation. Thanks again for eveyone's input.

To remove the "bow" in the fender you add shims to the bottom fender bolt to "stretch" the fender tighter. You first set the height correctly by shimming the top, then shim the bottom bolt. To get that bottom gap to close you will need to check your body bushings as mention previously.