I may test first, but after two new amp gauges and no readings at all, I'm wondering why I'm not getting anything to my amp gauge. I might test to make sure I've got the right voltage coming out of the right places, but I think part of my problem is that there was a lot of gunk in my bulkhead connector in the engine compartment side. I never felt the wires 'click' into place because of that gunk (the kind, I think it's for insulation or something). Anyway, I can't really get to it to clean it out, but could I somehow splice onto these wires on the wiring harness and go through into the interior and hook up on the back of the gauge itself to see if I got readings then?

If not, I'm also having a bit of trouble with my temp gauge (doesn't go up past 180 and under some conditions I'm pretty sure I was running hotter than that), so I was considering buying something like this that looks nice and putting it under my dash.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7970851642&category=46100

Anyway, thanks for the help.

Personally, I wouldn't have an AMP gauge.

A little too dangerous for my liking...I prefer a VOLT gauge...just my opinion. ;)

Yes if you want to bypass the factory wiring you can run wire directly from the horn relay and J-block to the factory amp gauge. If you want to trouble shoot the amp gauge circuit you can disconnect the 12 pin cluster connecter and check for voltage on the black wire and on the black/white wire. If voltage is present on both the problem may be with the connection between the cluster connector and the pc card. Another check is to connect a voltmeter across the amp gauge connection terminals. With the head lights on you should measure something like 70 to 150 millivolts or .007 to .01 volts. If your multi meter doesn’t have a millivolt scale you probably won’t be able to measure it. Yet another check would be to remove the nuts from the back of the gauge and check for voltage on each of the copper traces at the gauge connection this would verify a complete circuit to both gauge connections.


I agree with Bill, if you go with a three gauge set for under the dash get one with a volt gauge.

Thanks for the tips. Just curious, why are amp gauges dangerous?

An after market amp gauge requires heavy gauge wire, at least 10 ga., that puts the amp gauge in series in the main power feed wire from the battery. If either wire makes contact with ground someplace under the dash it can result in a fire. There have been cases of cars burning to the ground caused by an amp gauge wiring short. In addition the potential fire hazard the added resistance of the main power feed wiring creates problems. With the factory wiring it's common to experience low voltage to the start solenoid. Adding 12 to 14 feet of wire the main power feed just increases the potential for problems.

The factory amp gauge operates differently and doesn't cause the above hazard/problems.

The responses here are excellent on why use an ammeter, but I have a few more.

The number one issue is voltage drops and distance.....and total amperage going thru the junctions. I never use anything less than 8 ga on most main bus feeders. This is because everyone is adding load like crazy and every inch of that wire feeds in resistance....so 8 is it for my liking.

Voltage drops will also cause all your components on that feed such as headlights to be robbed of power. This dims lights and even can cause electrical referenced gauges to be inaccurate.

Lastly....and God forbid.....if you are ever in a wreck and have this major current feed inside the interior in the presence of fuel, it can easily short (and hold large sparks/heat for enough time) to ignite fuel. This is one of the reasons that they have removed them from OEM applications.