winter storage. [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: winter storage.


WestyJ69chevelle
Sep 14th, 04, 6:10 AM
here in the Northeast, winter is quickly approaching. I know the best way to store my baby is in a heated, climate controlled garage,but being obviously not blesses with independant wealth, this is not an option. whats the next best option? I do have a garage, should I cover it? keep it uncovered? want to protect my $6K body and paint best that I can..
thanks!

Canuck64ss
Sep 14th, 04, 7:54 AM
I would suggest that you give the baby a good wash, shine & wax for the body. Toss in a few moth balls in the car to reduce critter's. If the car is on Bias Ply tires, put it up on blocks to prevent flat spots, radials don't flatten out. Disconnect the battery and put it somewhere warm and dry, OFF CONCRETE. Fill the gas tank up and pour some "Gas Saver" into it to keep the gas fresh. I usually like to store a car with fresh oil/filter as well. If you have summer windshield washer fluid, drain it out otherwise it won't be very good by spring.

That's pretty much it. Hope it helped.

WestyJ69chevelle
Sep 14th, 04, 8:35 AM
yup it did... thanks!! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Bo6869ChevelleMan
Sep 14th, 04, 9:49 AM
Yes, I agree . Wash the car good and then give it a good wax job and clean all the chrome and glass. Then use a good cleaner like Tuff Stuff or whatever works good for you on your cars interior, but DO NOT USE a protectant such as Armour All,Mothers,etc. on your vinyl interior in the winter months as this can cause mildew even in a heated garage. Just clean your interior good and wait till spring to use your vinyl protectant. Ive also put moth balls into a foam bowl and placed them inside the car and trunk area just as a precaution against any rodents. The smell will air out fine in the spring. I also have poured charcoal briquets into a few foam bowls and placed them in various places in the car to absorb any moisture. Fill the gas tank up and pour in a bottle of Stabil fuel stabillizer. That will keep the fuel fresh and makes for easier starts. But from past experiences,I prefer to do all the above that I have mentioned in the winter months plus I prefer to start the car up and let it run at least up to normal temperature before shutting it off at least once every couple weeks. And if the roads are clear and dry (no salt or cinders) take it out for a spin. It will do both you and your car good to get out. But remember to take out or SECURE the bowls of moth balls and charcoal before you go out for a spin,you dont want them rolling all over the place.You can put them back in when you return. Buy taking your car out on occasions in the winter months (road cond. providing) this helps keep everything working or loosened up so to speak. One of the first things that usually happens when a car sits stored for very long without being driven is that the master cylinder will start to leak or a wheel cylinder will. I like to take them out for a spin weather providing. I use a California Car Duster to dust off any dust from sitting in the garage. Dry pacs are nice to place around the inside of the car to absorb any moisture but the are hard to find sometimes and are usually a bit pricey but the charcoal will work just as well and is less expensive. Winter-time is a good time to do those little jods that youve been putting off on your ride. Its also a good time to get out and go through all your car books and organise or mark or copy any tips or tricks down that you may want to use or do on your car. Or make a good plan on what to do next on your car. Mark ----------------------------------------------------------------------------1968 Chevelle Malibu (Weekend Crusier) 1968 El Camino (Daily Driver)

drielly
Sep 14th, 04, 11:30 AM
I am a Northeaster also, and will be my first year with the velle - I'm already in denial that winter is coming and I need to park my ride...summer never came this year in the Northeast.

I've seen the previous posts about the "start or not start" the car debate during the winter...especially because of the cold, "oil is like sludge" issues and doesn't flow causing wear and tear on the engine.

To start or not to start??????????

clean7t
Sep 14th, 04, 1:10 PM
I have stored the car the last 10 years that I have had it what i do is the obvious cleaning fill gas tank etc. I also purchased a car cocoon to put the car in with decessant. The car gets cleaned the valves get backed off due to the big cam, oil changed. I then put 10 mil plastic on the ground, open up the sleeping bag, push car in, cover with normal 4 layer car cover. After car is cover I throw in the dessicant to keep everything dry and zip it up till spring time. I do not know if this is best but i have never had any ill effects and it comes out perfect every time. Previous years before this method once the temperature would change everything in the garage including car would be soaked from moisture. have the double protection seems to prevent at least so far. If I am doing wrong someone let me know.

Tom

john reid
Sep 14th, 04, 1:22 PM
Has anyone gone the cold storage route with a ceiling fan to help prevent condensation?

drielly
Sep 14th, 04, 1:38 PM
Clean7T, you mention putting 10mil on the "ground". Are you actually outside, non sheltered, or do you mean the "floor" of a garage when you state the ground?

If the floor of the garage (or for that matter, the ground)are you attempting to mimimize moisture rising up from the "floor"?

As for the dessicant, is there a specific auto brand/formulation...or good old Home Depot do the trick?

clean7t
Sep 14th, 04, 4:52 PM
The car is kept in the garage, so the 10 mil plastic is on the garage floor. The car sits in a two car garage with the complete floor covered in plastic to keep moisture from rising up onto everything else. At least that is the theory. For some reason my garage seems to be real bad for this but i assume it is do to the fact that it is a detached garage.

Any should work i have a 10 lb container that I bought with the car cocoon.

Finally
Sep 15th, 04, 10:19 AM
Originally posted by drielly:
I am a Northeaster also, and will be my first year with the velle - I'm already in denial that winter is coming and I need to park my ride...summer never came this year in the Northeast.

I've seen the previous posts about the "start or not start" the car debate during the winter...especially because of the cold, "oil is like sludge" issues and doesn't flow causing wear and tear on the engine.

To start or not to start?????????? I'm in Michigan also facing the long dreary winter. If you start it just make sure you run it long enough to heat and dry it out. You'll get condensation, acids, etc. in the oil and condensation in the exhaust. So make sure you get it hot before shutting down. Thick oil sludge? Well let me see, my truck sits outside everyday and gets started in the morning and again when I come home. I guess if you're using 50w oil and it's 10 degrees it might be an issue, but starting it occasionaly on a mild day shouldn't hurt.
If you don't start it, dump the stabil in the tank before you fill then drive it home. That will get it thru the entire fuel system and not just the tank. Plus all the other good tips provided.

drielly
Sep 15th, 04, 6:31 PM
Thanks "finally"...do you start yours? Also,radials for tires...no need to put on Jack stands?

scottanddiane
Sep 15th, 04, 9:26 PM
Radials DO flat spot, been there...done that.

drielly
Sep 16th, 04, 7:42 AM
If the car is on Bias Ply tires, put it up on blocks to prevent flat spots, radials don't flatten out. Above...is part of the reply to the post....

Let the debate begin....stands or not to avoid flat spots?????

Finally
Sep 16th, 04, 3:06 PM
Originally posted by drielly:
Thanks "finally"...do you start yours? Also,radials for tires...no need to put on Jack stands? First winter for this car, but it will get started and driven on mild days. I'm not in northern Mi so we get occasional breaks. I also have an attached garage, 2 inside walls, and yet to see it get down to freezing inside. If the climate was more severe or I had an unattached/unheated garage I might think different. Tires? I hear if it's going to sit for an extended period pump the pressure up to about 40. Flat spots, I think they can all get them but thought they worked themselves out eventually. Not a nice ride until they do but no permanent damage. Yes/No?

BTW: I hear they designed these cars to be used year around. I know you don't want to stress a 34 yr old car, but 30 degrees and a nice sunny dry day, don't sound that bad. If my car can't handle that then it needed fixing anyway. graemlins/waving.gif

BustedKnuckle
Sep 17th, 04, 11:36 AM
If I can ask a question along this same thread.
How do any of you deal with starting your cars in the winter when it is around 35 deg or below?
My malibu sits covered in a storage unit and I have always been of the belief that it should be started every couple of weeks throughout the winter (take it out for a spin if no salt on the road) but with it being 30 and below most of the past 2 winters in Mass, I have had a real hard time starting her up if she sits for more than 4 or 5 days.
Do I need a different battery? If so can anyone reccomend a good cold start battery for my 69. If not the battery, any other suggestions (someone told me to use a space heater in the engine compartment once, but this doesn't seem like a good idea).

Finally
Sep 17th, 04, 2:21 PM
Originally posted by BustedKnuckle:
If I can ask a question along this same thread.
How do any of you deal with starting your cars in the winter when it is around 35 deg or below?
My malibu sits covered in a storage unit and I have always been of the belief that it should be started every couple of weeks throughout the winter (take it out for a spin if no salt on the road) but with it being 30 and below most of the past 2 winters in Mass, I have had a real hard time starting her up if she sits for more than 4 or 5 days.
Do I need a different battery? If so can anyone reccomend a good cold start battery for my 69. If not the battery, any other suggestions (someone told me to use a space heater in the engine compartment once, but this doesn't seem like a good idea). By hard time starting do you mean you have to crank it a lot or it has a hard time turning over?
I'll assume you meant the later. I don't know if there is a definitive answer on how long the battery should hold up but 4 or 5 days doesn't sound right. I've gone away during the winter for longer than that and not had a problem when I've returned. You can take it to Autozone or other parts place and have them test it. They can tell you how many cranking amps it puts out. As for a replacement brand? Lot of good ones out there. BTW Exide makes over half of them. Just get something with a lot of cold cranking amps.

Heater in the engine compartment, wow that would scare me. Oh, you're not using a heavy weight oil in the winter are you?

BustedKnuckle
Sep 17th, 04, 2:55 PM
It barely turns over, as though it needs a jump (which is what I ended up doing most of the time). My guess is that the cold cranking amps is just not high enough (I'm not sure what the amps is on it). It turns over just fine when it's not cold out.
Not using a heavyweight oil, usually a multi-weight 10w-30 in the fall which is what is in it through the winter.

Finally
Sep 17th, 04, 4:14 PM
Originally posted by BustedKnuckle:
It barely turns over, as though it needs a jump (which is what I ended up doing most of the time). My guess is that the cold cranking amps is just not high enough (I'm not sure what the amps is on it). It turns over just fine when it's not cold out.
Not using a heavyweight oil, usually a multi-weight 10w-30 in the fall which is what is in it through the winter. Sounds like the battery is getting weak. Again I suggest running it up to the parts place and having them check it. They can tell you how much the battery puts out as well as how much the starter is drawing, which is another possibility, not as likely I think, but still a possibility.