I posted this in the engine section and realized it is electrical. See below.

Well, I got my 72 running this evening. I put new heads on it and buttoned it all down. Fired it up and it is running great. By the way it does have an HEI ignition in it. So I decide to terrorize the neighborhood at 11:00 PM. I gotta tell you, for a 72 Malibu (SS clone) with a 350 4 barrel, cheap duals, 2.73 rear and TH350 she was running great. I even got a little tire when she shifted to second. So I decide to head home. I come to an intersection and the car starts to die and then does die, lights and all. I shut it off put her in park and tried. No luck, no power no nothing. So I run back to the house (mind you it is about 1 1/2 miles and I am not a perfect specimen...). How great of a neighbor is it when you call them close to 11:30 PM and he comes over to help tow her back home? Of course, I let him drive the Chevelle... He is what is I like to call "good people". Now, I had a 77 Camaro that did the same thing and if I remember correctly it was the ignition control module. Does this sound right? Any ideas? Also, I have a Haynes manual and I think they detail out how to test the module. The best thing about all of this is that this is not my daily driver so I can take a week or more fixing this issue if I wanted (hell no, I will be out there late tomorrow getting it running again!). Nothing like going into the corporate office with grease under the fingernails. Thanks for listening!

Not if you lost the lights and everything as you said. Sounds like you lost all electrical power. Start at the source, the battery and see what it's putting out. Should be in excess of 12v if it's charged up. If the battery is ok start checking wiring. Are the connections good and clean on the battery post. Ground connection from battery to alternator bracket and to passenger fender. Positive lead to junction block on rad support behind battery. Junction block to fuse block.

Could also be charging system but if it died suddenly and you lost the lights, etc at same time it's not as likely. Hopefully you have a test meter. Start with the above checks and if you need more help let us know what you found. Someone here will be able to walk you through it.

Finally,
I do have a test meter. I will start with the battery and go from there. Thanks for the info and a good starting point.
Frank

The 72 is a little different than the older models. Positive doesn't run down the radiator. See if there is 12 volts to ground on the large screw stud on the horn relay. The horn relay is next to the brake booster on the firewall. If there is no power there, there is a fusible link down by starter that can act up.

Thanks John. I forgot about the wiring changes on the 72.

To all,
Thanks for the help. I found the problem. The power wire running from the starter to the fuse block decided to burn off the insulation on and it welded itself to the header. I will pull the wire, repair, and make sure it cannot come in contact again. Just glad it was not something major that fried Thank you again for the help.
Frank

Hopefully it was above the fusible link. That's the soft wire that runs up about 6 inches from the solenoid.

John,
I was trying to get the power wire off of the solenoid and the solenoid came apart in 2 pieces. I decided to drop the header and pull the complete starter. Then I got to really looking at the battery cables as well. You know how it goes, what about this, if I am here I might as well replace, etc etc. I am replacing the starter solenoid and the battery cables. The wire itself has been previously spliced. The wire from the solenoid is about 12 inches long to where it is spliced. Anyways, I plan on running the wires a little better so they cannot come in contact with the headers. I can get the appropriate fusible link wire from Pep Boys or the like, correct?
Frank

Quick update. The car is back running again! I got lucky and it was JUST the one wire I found. I appreciate all of the help. Thanks to all.
Frank