My car is a 70 malibu, non a/c car.

I have tried and tried to find out why my blower will not work. I have applied 12v directly to the motor, and it starts so I know the motor is good. I have traced all the wires and what I found was a brown wire coming off the back of the speed selector switch. This brown wire merges into a factory splice and becomes one big pink wire which goes into the back of the fusebox, and looks like it has a prong for the terminal labeled "ign". This ign terminal has no power with the key in any position. Here are some pics of what I'm looking at:
http://clark.mcssuperssite.com/factorysplice.jpg
http://clark.mcssuperssite.com/backoffuse.jpg


I have read through some of the old posts using the 'search', and it sounds like my problem may be because I do not have my TCS hooked up, which I don't plan on using. If this is the case, would it be the best idea for me to disconnect the brown wire and hook it directly to its own power source? If so, what would you recommend?

Another small question. I see in my dash there are two wires, a pink and a purple which are quite long. They both terminate into a white/clear plastic block that has a metal backing. Here is a pic:
http://clark.mcssuperssite.com/thingamajig.jpg

Where should this go? What does it do? I know it is the same color as the safety switches on the steering column.

You should be able to get it working without altering the wiring. The second fuse up from the bottom on the right side column is the fuse that supplies the pink wire, that you are holding in the 1st pic, leaving the junction is, heavy pink - directional signals, small ping - backup lights and of course brown its the heater. When the ign switch is on the fuse should have power on the right side, if the fuse is good and making good contact with both fuse clips, there should be power in the left side and the pink wire. In the back of the fuse block pic, the heavy pink/black is power from the ignition switch. The two bottom right side fuses get power from it. The bottom fuse powers the fuel gauge and indication lights (gen, oil pressure etc.) If they work then you have power to the fuse.

Post back if additional info is needed.

The red and purple/white wires/connector is for a rear window defogger.

So without doing anything further, if I don't actually have my directionals hooked up right now, and the factory cluster is not in because I have an aftermarket dash, would this then not work because the signals are the ground source? I have the 12 pin connector that normally would've gone into the back of the cluster hanging free for the moment. Do I need to ground any of these first?

There is no power going to the pink wire on the back of the fuse block, I assume I'll need to dig into the column to figure this out? The column is out of a 71 (column shift) if that makes any difference.

Thanks Elree, you are a god. http://www.kevnascar.com/2kmc/html/emoticons/worship.gif

If there is anything I need to take pics of to aid in the diagnosis, let me know.

The fuseblock has a pink w/black stripe wire, you can see it in your fuse block picture, It gets power from the ignition switch. At the ignition switch there is a white connector that connector has a red and a pink wire, the red wire should get unswitched battery power, switching the ignition switch on puts that power on the pink wire. Check for voltage on the red wire at the ignition switch, then for power at the pink/bk wire at the fuse black. The blower is grounded at the blower, if the blower runs it has the necessary ground. No other ground is needed for the blower circuit.

Summary: You need power at the ignition switch, red wire white connector. With the ign switch on you need power at the two bottom right fuses (right side fuse clips). You need a good fuse, 25 A. The fuse needs to make good contact with both fuse clips, check for rust and scrape/clean as needed. You need power on the brown wire at the blower switch.

Thanks so much! I will check this out tomorrow and let you know how I fared.

Another thing I should mention, when I first hooked up the battery the key minder was working, and later it quit. I suspect the 2 problems are related since this is a pink/black wire that goes to that (annoying) buzzer.

(one constant note would be nice, not a mosquito buzzing around my face sound!)

Hmmmm They are unrelated, unless the power from the battery to the horn relay is lost. Check for power on either of the two screw terminals of the horn relay. With power at the horn relay the key minder grounds at the door jamb switch and if the key is in making a switch in the column the "anoying" buzzer will sound.

OK Elree we have fans! Mostly. It does not work in the high setting. I read through several old posts but they were all for cars with AC. Is this because of my switch?

Man o man was I tickled to hear that squirrel turnin the wheel!

EDIT I think first I will check the connection of the orange wire that goes to the terminal on the engine side of the firewall. It is tricky to put back on right with the fender on. I disconnected it to apply 12v to see if it even worked.

Just checked the orange wire to blower motor and it was fine.

I am starting to believe that I may have a faulty speed selector switch.