Tail skin installation [Archive]

MARTINSR

Feb 26th, 02, 8:07 PM

Are we talking about a NEW skin here? I didn't know they made a repro.
Anyway, here is a "Door skin basics" that I have. If it is a used skin, let me know and I can give you the info needed for that.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>First off, to remove the old skin, take a grinder and grind the edge door where the skin folds around onto the door shell. On the spot welds you can drill them or grind them, sometimes both. By grind I mean a die grinder with a cut off wheel, just set the spinning wheel on the weld moving it back and forth till yo have cut though eliminating the weld.
As preparation, sand with 120 grit on a DA the OUTER edge of the fold in the new skin a LITTLE bit so it will "want" to fold easier.
If you don’t plan on bonding the skin on, I highly recommend it. It is a corrosion fighter like non other. With the door sitting on it's back (the interior side down) clean the edge where the panel will bond with an abrasive disc to bare metal. Don't use a grinder, it removes metal. Then you will put a small ribbon of panel adheasive, NOT door skin adheasive but the Panel adheasive, it has a higher strength and longer working time. Spread out the adheasive with a plastic spreader so ALL the bare metal is covered. Then apply another thin ribbon on the inside edge of shell where it folds down towards the interior.
I don't know what primer you will find on the new skin, if you can be assured it is good quality and has bonded well, leave it. If it is questionable, then sand it out and apply a good epoxy primer.
After you have a good primer (or left alone) you need to simply scuff it with a red scuff pad down in the area that will be bonding. And believe me DON'T over do it with the bonding! It WILL go around the other side of the fold without even trying and get on your dolly and hammer!
Lay the skin down on the door and position it. Clamp it down at the top where you won't mess up the outer skin. I used a rubber dolly, if you don't have one take a flat dolly and tape a rag or something on it to provide a little cush. Hold the dolly on the top surface right over where you are going to fold the lip, strike up on the fold with your hammer while pushing down on the dolly, strike it at an angle so the metal "wants" to hold and NOT lift the skin off the door.
THE TRICK!...... Don't fold it very much at a time, I mean VERY LITTLE, about an 1/8" MAX, maybe even 1/16". Go around the WHOLE door before folding more. Go around and around untill you have it folded down almost flat, about 1/16" from touching.
Turn the door over, being particularly carefull not to rest the door in a way that will bend your new skin! Now strike down with the hammer while you are still supporting with the dolly to close up the fold a bit more.
ANOTHER TIP!....DON'T smash it down!!!! Two reasons, one you will distort the outside and two you need to leave the bonding in there for it to work.
STILL ANOTHER TIP!.... Use a number of hammers that closely match the shape of the door, if you are in the rounded area at the top of the door, use a domed hammer.

You can spray a weld thru primer on a couple of inches or so at the corners so you can then weld there and not burn the adheasive. But be ready to trial fit the door and twist it if need be be for your weld it. You should always tril fit the door before the adheasive cures and “massage” the door to fit well then weld the corners on the back side so the door can’t twist while the adhesive cures.

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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"