tremclad vs. por 15??? [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: tremclad vs. por 15???


70chevellemalibu
Apr 16th, 05, 7:53 PM
list your pros and cons? what do you think is better? ive heard tremclad is easier and just and good for half the price?!?

thanks

Randy Mosier
Apr 16th, 05, 10:31 PM
I've never heard of Tremclad. I'd like to try it and test it out before offering an opinion.

Dan Orgill
Apr 17th, 05, 9:09 AM
Tremclad is a household use paint, meant to " paint right over rust " as their commercials like to brag.

1. It's not meant for automotive use.

2. I painted my front railing on my house last year, and the rust spots are coming through already.

I definitely would NOT use Tremclad, but I may be the wrong guy to ask, since I don't think much of POR15 either, with the exception of their engine paints.

MonteMan454
Apr 17th, 05, 9:44 AM
I think tremclad is a Canadian product. Comparing TremClad to POR is like comparing a Chevette to a Eldorado. POR is a much better product.

Dan72
Apr 18th, 05, 11:34 AM
Tremclad is a Canadian product. It works very well all things considered. It is quite similiar to your American Rustoleum products. In my fairly small experience I find Tremclad seems to work better than Rustoleum, but they are pretty much identical products.


Tremclad is definately more user friendly. It is a pretty durable non-catalyzed enamel, can be brushed, rolled, sprayed. Painted a chest freezer yesterday with white Tremclad in a spraygun and it looks like an automotive finish! Nice...For regular paints it is about the best you are going to find. Price is reasonable and works decent for metal, rusty or otherwise. Has some UV protection, but is not chemically resistant. I painted a motorcycle with Tremclad (base color followed by clear) black and it looked awesome (this is quite some time ago, please don't flame me!). Problem was when you fueled up the splatters would melt into the tank. Thinner will also start to dissolve it.

POR 15 is much harder to use. The surface must be SUPER clean, SUPER dry, and have enough of a tooth before the stuff will grab. It is also non-catalyzed but you can't pour any leftovers back into the can, it uses hydroscopically so moisture makes it hard. You can't leave the can open, either, and you better wipe the rim off real good before you put the lid back on, believe me!

POR can be brushed, rolled, sprayed, etc, but to spray you must use only their solvent. Clean your gun REAL good! POR is pretty thin, so even if you brush it it dries very very flat, and shines pretty decent. Has no UV protection (the color fades).

On the upside POR is about the toughest coating around. If you do all the steps properly it grabs and doesn't let go, it's kind of rubbery (it's a urethane base) so it is VERY abrasion and chip resistant. It is impervious to most chemicals. And by curing hydroscopically instead of by solvent evaporation it leaves behind no pores, no rust should not ever return.

It is expensive, about the same price as epoxy primer.

Not everyone has success, even those that claim to have followed the directions 100%. Do a search. I have had nearly a 100% sucess rate, myself.

Bottom line-guys may argue POR vs epoxy primer and other std restoration techniques but most will still agree that POR performs better than Tremclad/Rustoleum. It will come down to a price/PITA vs durability issue for you.

I wouldn't use either for bodywork, but both work well for more utilitarian purposes like underneath, inside, around the house, etc.

6t7gto
Apr 18th, 05, 4:59 PM
this is what i am using. highly recommended by a restorer on the PY forum.
david

http://www.nomorerust.com/

6t7gto
Apr 18th, 05, 5:03 PM
here's a link to some pics of the silver primer i put on this weekend.did it with a brush and roller. really lays out nice.color goes on tonite.
david

http://forums.performanceyears.com/eve/ubb.x/a/tpc/f/2526057511/m/6621083711/p/2