Has anyone used por15 on the firewall and engine comp parts, other than the frame?
How does it look?

How much do you have to thin the por15 to use a spray gun?

Thank you,
bk

I used it on my firewall, core support, front frame section and on all my front suspension and steering parts. Looks great! I didnt have to thin it at all in order to spray it.

Hope this helps.

Thank you D,
bk


<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Dcairns560:
I used it on my firewall, core support, front frame section and on all my front suspension and steering parts. Looks great! I didnt have to thin it at all in order to spray it.

Hope this helps.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I used it on the firewall, core support, frame, floor pans and it worked great. I used brushes and it looks really good.
I have a couple of pictures posted on my site, that might give you a small indication of how it looks.

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http://www.geocities.com/yziomas/68chevelle.html

Thanks Yanniz,

Your car is looking good!!!!
bk


<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by yanniz:
I used it on the firewall, core support, frame, floor pans and it worked great. I used brushes and it looks really good.
I have a couple of pictures posted on my site, that might give you a small indication of how it looks.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I used POR-15 on my entire chassis frame control arms axle housing etc. I also used it to spray the entire bottom of my 69' from the back all the way up the fire wall. Also did the core support and fender wells and inner fenders inside and out. Top coated with POR-15 Chassis Black for the correct semi-flat appearence. I also coated my entire trunk floor before spraying the original spatter paint. And also did the top side of the floor boards and stratiegic areas such as bottom/inside of front fenders, inside bottm of doors and quarter panels to rockers where rust was prevelant before the tear down.
I thinned down between 5% and 20% depending on the batch. I found inconsistancies from one batch to another as I would purchase as needed over time. Also had to thin based on how long I left it sit in between uses.(It thickens over time once it is opened).
I used POR-15 engine enamal with great success as well. And gray POR-15 manifold paint for a cast gray look on disc break parts, steering box, idler arm etc. Of course had to bake in my wifes oven to cure. I got to keep all the old cookie sheets when I was done. What a deal! Oh yeh, she got new ones!
I used POR-15 manifold gray and black mixed to spray the hood hinges and hood latch/catch for a phosphated look they came out perfect. Had to bake again but now I had my own set of cookie sheets.
I have won lots of 1st places and best of shows in my area and have received lots of compliment on the finish.

Good luck,

Fastss396man

P.S.
I sprayed the radiator cover and heater box with a semi-gloss enamel w/hardner for a nice contrast and also correct finish.
You can also spray all your engine pullys and brackets with POR-15 and Chassis Black for correct finishes and durability.
All items mentioned were first sandblasted before spraying including the entire bottom of the body and trunk floor.

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69' SS396 Chevelle
L78 396/375hp
M-21 Close Ratio
10 year Resto
It's brand new again!

Thanks Guys for the info. It's just what I was looking for! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif

BK

If you spray ware a real mask not one of those paper type. I'm told this stuff is real dangerous if it get into your lungs.



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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by fastss396man:
P.S.
All items mentioned were first sandblasted before spraying including the entire bottom of the body and trunk floor.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Not questioning the sandblasting, but how do you do that in those remote areas? How do you get the certain spot without blasting another spot? How do you blast the floorpans?
Thanks,

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Trever Maas
1972 Chevelle Malibu
350/TH350
Undergoing Resotoration