I'm swapping out my bench seat with some buckets. While the interior is gutted (see picture here http://www.auburnextremeracing.org/drivers/mike/seats/front_floor_01.jpg ) I plan to do some preventive maintenance.

1.) I plan to paint the floor (above link) with POR-15. should I do any primer prepping for this? Will this POR stick to anything under the sun?

2.) I pulled the rear seat and found a lot of rust under the side seat areas. AT first I had http://www.auburnextremeracing.org/drivers/mike/seats/rear_floor_02.jpg . After some grinding I had http://www.auburnextremeracing.org/drivers/mike/seats/rear_floor_01.jpg . How much closer to the borders should I go?

3.) I am going to plate situation number 2 with a thin sheet of metal. I plan to rivot it down and not weld it. What kind of fillers are there (besides bondo) to seal things up?

THANKS!

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71' 3880# with me. Big Block 402, TH400, 3.73 posi,
13.1sec @ 105 MPH (poor 2.1 sixty foot and rookie tuning)
--will be racing at Chevellebration 2001!--
Picture of me roasting the tires and other guy stuff (http://www.auburnextremeracing.org/drivers/mike/)
Video of me staging (smoke of course) (http://www.notabusinessracing.org/videos/mike_chevelle_burnout.avi)

BB,

I don't recommend that you patch that hole with a thin piece of sheet metal and some rivets. You should really clean a hole that size out real well and give it a clearly defined perimeter, make a template and have a piece of steel welded in that is the same gauge as the sheet metal on the floor pan.

That's just my opinion and others may disagree but:

1) You will be able to see a riveted piece of sheet metal in that area very clearly from under the car.

2) I don't know if the other side has the same size hole but remember that the floor pan does provide some structure. I don't know what the hole on the other side looks like but I wouldn't want that much steel missing from my floor pan.

It really wouldn't cost that much to fix. You can use poster board to make the template and find a piece of sheet metal scrap to cover it at a salvage business for a few dollars.

If you can't weld maybe you can trade some work with someone who can.

I haven't worked with the POR-15 so one of the other guys will have to help you out there.

Sleeper

I agree with Sleeper 100%. A riveted patch unless sealed with some type of seam sealer or caulk will increase road noise and allow in exhaust fumes when sitting - the voice of experience here. It looks like the rest of the metal is thick enough for a weld.

POR-15 will stick to any sound, grease free metal. Remove all the loose rust and paint right over the rest. I always use their metal prep stuff just for insurance.

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1967 Malibu
1967 Impala SS396 Conv.

"Excuse - no matter how valid - never alters or changes performance" - N Eldon Tanner

No, Por does not stick to just anything. It adheres very well to a properly prepared surface. This could be a rusty surface that has been wire brushed to remove the loose flaky rust. It could be a surface that has been sandblasted (but NOT glass beaded). Or it could be a slick, shiny metal surface that has been etched with Por Metal Ready. Por 15 will not stick very well to an unprepared shiny metal surface. Primer is not needed. All that is needed is proper surface preparation.

Now for your rust. You have rust in the same area as in my 71. I'm doing this exact same repair right now. Do you see those two metal braces that are spot welded to the floor and to the sidewall immediately forward of your repair? You have to be sure that the rust doesn't extend to the sheetmetal under the brace that's spotwelded to the floor. If it does, then the side brace and the floor brace have to come out. The side one has to come out first so you can drill out all the spot welds. Ask me how I know this. My repair area has grown quite a bit since I started. I had to invest in a spotweld cutter set. Make sure you inspect this area very carefully.

Troublesome to say the least!

The drivers side looks just like the passenger side.

Plate/filler: I will have to go the thin plate and rivot route. The rest of the body aint exaclty quality stuff either! What I want to find is the "filler" stuff that you see holding in drain plugs and such. Bondo would absorb moisture and not last very long.

I'll just plate it and later, when I do a frame swap, I can remove the plate and weld in a new rear piece from a manufacturer.

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71' 3880# with me. Big Block 402, TH400, 3.73 posi,
13.1sec @ 105 MPH (poor 2.1 sixty foot and rookie tuning)
--will be racing at Chevellebration 2001!--
Picture of me roasting the tires and other guy stuff (http://www.auburnextremeracing.org/drivers/mike/)
Video of me staging (smoke of course) (http://www.notabusinessracing.org/videos/mike_chevelle_burnout.avi)

BB_Mike,
The stuff you are looking for is seam sealer. I think 3M makes some that the local parts stores carry. It can come in a caulk tube or a brushable version.

As for the repair, I agree with the other guys, even if the rest of the car needs work, get it welded in. That way you will never have to re-visit the repair in the future.

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AJ67SS
67 Chevelle SS Conv

We had a discussion a while back about using liquid nails for seam sealant. I use it all the time with excellent results. It bonds the two riveted metals together tightly and seals out the elements. Just don't use your bare finger to smooth it out, use gloves. My hands tingle after using it...........where am I?.....

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Joe G.
ChicagoChevelle68
Any car past 1972 is just simply transportation, really!

http://pages.about.com/chicagochevelle68/Welcome.html
josephguzman@yahoo.com (http://josephguzman@yahoo.com)
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