Well the progress has been a bit slow the last couple of days due to some parts that i had overlooked. BTW anyone installing a Centerforce clutch they DO not send the $1.00 little plastic tool that you need to align the clutch, that was a trip to checker. Anyway just some info for people switching over. Well we got the flywheel and the clutch on then went to put on the block plate, had to elongate some of the holes to line up for the motor then went to put on the bellhousing and where is the pivot ball?? OH YEAH i forgot to order that, well picked that up today along with the TH400 slip yolk for the driveshaft and i think i have every thing now. Hoping to finish tonight and drive it tomorrow. Its been WAY to long since i have driven this so it will be odd driving it again. Anyway wish me luck.

did you buy the conversion 1350/1310 U joint? Jim

I have no idea what that U Joint is. I went to a local driveline shop to get that slip joint. Well ran into even more problems. The block plate had to have some more holes drilled into it to use the doweling pins. Its like i got a mix matched set of block plate and scattersheild. Well its been totally modified and finally works. Then we finally get the scattersheild on there and it hit the headers so we had to grind away a big chunk to clear the headers, then tried to get the crossmember back in for a good 2 hours before it FINALLY popped into place WOW what a PITA. Anyway the shifter is sticking through the floorboards, the tranny is installed, trying to get the motor lined back up again then we get to see if the driveshaft is to long and has to be cut or if it will fit right on. Well i might be driving it tomorrow we will see how tonight goes.

Well I am the one to even out all of the statistics, my 4 speed swap has run into more problems. Well i am glad i didn't tackle this project in the garage my tools are quite limited compared to the guy who is helping me, i would have been stuck by day one trying to grind the scattershield.

WISH ME LUCK I WILL NEED IT!!! :)

Hi, on some turbo 400 yokes, the u joint size is for a 1330 (small) or 1350 (large) yoke, the driveshaft if it's a turbo 350 or powerglide car is sized for a 1310 u joint, then some of the u-joints need inside clips on the 400 yoke or outside clips, I just put a turbo 400 in my chevelle and found the numbers on this site, good luck, if you need the u-joint number I can go out to the garage and see if I kept the box, I think I paid like $15 at autozone, and it wasn't in there computer, Jim

Well that stinks i got ripped off then, what else is new. IT is the short tailshaft TH400 yolk. The clips are also on the outside, i believe all chevelle driveshafts are that way ATLEAST 68-72 not sure on the other years. Well atleast this yolk looks super heavy duty, lots more than my TH350 one, lots thicker, if it doesn't break in the next 10 years i will long forget how much i paid for it :)

Well away we go on day 4. Does any of this stuff ACTUALLY fit a 68 chevelle, i am starting to believe that i got sent a few wrong parts because nothing is fitting right. Well the clutch adjust rod, bought BRAND NEW for my car is 1" to short. The pedal has about 3"'s of play and the rod is only 2"'s long. We ended up making a new one, the starter won't fit on the block without grinding some more off of this bellhousing. Also found out that the headers (Looked terrible and have been on the car since i bought it) are actually wrong for the car. Had to modify where the clutch return spring goes because the header tubes were in the way. That i will admit is my own problem but jeez.

Oh ya and the driveshaft is 2"'s to long (which was expected) and has to be cut and balanced.

We have made a new clutch rod and grinded enough away so the starter mounts on the block, we still have to make some more minor adjustments and throw that driveshaft in their.

Has anyone else ran into any of the same problems i have with a 4spd swap?

What kind of 4 spd are you installing? I know scatter sheilds are a bit of a pain in general. I've got a 70 that's going to be getting a Super T10 in a couple weeks so I'll have to let you know if I have any big troubles... (Fingers crossed)


David

i just gotten done doing a four speed change on my 69 velle,i have a 396 with a muncie m-20 with the hurst comp plus shifter,i started to get all the parts last year and rebuilt the trans over the winter mths,i gotten a 621 bellhousing and all of the little parts needed to do the change over and i'didnt have to shorten my drive shaft any althought you have to get a longer speedo cable and do the math if your speedo reading is not correct,i like having the four speed now,feels like i'm having more fun with the car now, BILL

I am installing a 73 Muncie thats why the driveshaft has to be shortened, its an m22 with fine spline input and large spline output.

I am totally looking forward to having it in there an auto is just so boring to drive after awhile i want to do something.