I've been searching the forum and have alot of answers. Still need to know exactly how to prep for primer and sequence for painting jambs etc so I can assemble and final paint.

All body work is done, front cap is disassembled and trunk lid is off. Car is bare metal.

I know that I need to prep the metal, do I sand it? How do I clean it (por makes MARINE CLEAN & METAL READY), is there something equal that I can get locally and does this stuff need to be part of a paint system?

I want to prime it apart, then finish paint the inner fenders, cowl, jambs and trunk bottom (any tips or methods on how to accomplish this). Then assemble and final paint.

Its a 65 and will be painted back the correct white. I want to use a high build primer and am not sure about type of paint since this will be my first paint job. Thinking of DuPont or PPG, any suggestions on paint type is appriciated (what about HOK)? If I can make it look good I just want it to last!

Thanks Chris

Chose your paint supplier and follow their suggestions for primers, stay away from laquer type primers. Use a self etching primer or epoxy as a base before applying primer surfacer. I've seen failures with metal conditioner, metal prep and wouldn't recomend it's use. Epoxy is my favorite, but cleanliness is an absolute must, and the metal must have a texture for the mechanical bond. If the vehicle was stripped with a chemical stripper do not skip the water wash needed to remove and nuetralize any stripper residue, the stuff tends to stay in nooks and crannies and will bite you later if not removed.

I've textured the metal already for the bond and will do the water wash. Any suggestions on a solution to do the wash with and how long before I prime should this be done.

Also any suggestions on a paint system ie: base coat clear coat etc? Remember I've not painted before.

As bob mentioned if done wrong the metal prep/conditioner can and will cause problems. Just skip this OLD OUT DATED method!!
Personal I like etching primer over epoxy, thats my opinion.

For etching primer use PPG's DX1791 on bare metal.
Or you can use PPG's DPLF epoxy primer on bare metal. Or for the ulitamate fix apply one coat of Dx1791 then 2 coats of DPLF.

For a primer surfacer the type you block and block to make the panel straight use PPG's K38 or NCP271. Stay away from K36 it sucks, it shrinks its not as good as the two other mentioned products.

For basecoat nothing but DBC, DBU is harder to use and not as user friendly.

Clear coat, my favorite would be 2055. Next up would be 2021. Stay away from 2042 if the car will be a light colored like white or light blues. 2042 has a rep of turning the color yellowish on light colors, but not on dark colors.
2082 is junk. DC3000 is a 2-3 panel clear NOT for overall's
Stick with 2055 or 2021.

One important consideration is whether your bare metal body needs much filler in dents or dips. You cannot put filler on top of etch primer. You must grind it out of the dents, back down to bare metal, then fill, then etch as close as you can to the filler but not on it, (unless you use Sherwin Williams etch which says you can apply it on top of properly cured filler).
If you use epoxy primer on top of the bare metal, you can put your bondo right on top of that, I am told. This is good for the hobbiest as he can take his time to find the dents and fill them, before going to the next primer, which goes on top of either etch or epoxy, which is your primer surfacer, usually urethane.
I am using Sherwin Williams and find their web site and paint product sheets very explanatory. Dupont and PPG also have web sites with all their product data sheets. They tell you exactly what to use on or under each product.
My suggestion is to go to your paint retailer for SW, then Dupont, then PPG and find out which vendor knows more and is willing to share it with you, to help you thru the resto. In my city, the PPG and Dupont suppliers didn't seem to want to help me, having an attitude that as a novice I shouldn't be bothering them. At the SW supplier, the owner is a former body man and has spent tons of time explaining product, temperatures, technique. Thats the paint to buy as the service tips are what you need as a novice. Then copy the tech sheets, read them over and over, and stay with one product line for all your needs.

I have already done the filler work, can I use an epoxy build primer over the filler work?

Can anyone tell me what solution I should use when I do the water wash?

If I use PPG's K38 or NCP271 build primer, and use their Concept (DCC) single stage white paint what sealer should I use in between those two if any.

Can I do any sanding, buffing etc. on this DCC paint after final application or for imperfections.

My filler work is very staight but there are some pin holes in it, I assume from air when filler was mixed. Should I refill and sand or take this out with primer or glaze later?

Most people just take a hose and rinse the whole thing down. You can also take ace a tone and wash it down. I did both on all of mine. Remember when you do the wash the metal will rust almost immediately. Try and keep the water away from the filler unless it is an epoxy filler. So be ready to primer or you will have to sand the rust off. The others have given allot of good advice. Make sure to take care of your lungs. I wish I would have done a better job of that.

You dont NEED a sealer when painting over urethane primer. Now yes some painters do use a sealer, I myself do and dont use it. Depends on the app.
For PPG sealers they make a few one wuould be the NCS sealers. The other choice which would be my choice is the velva-seal, dont know the part number but its called velva-seal.