Anybody care to share some tips on blocking the the body of a chevelle. There's some pretty tough contours to deal with and I want to try and do it right.
Thanks

Since the whole point of block sanding is getting the metal as falt as possible, I have always used a long sanding board and sanded the long way on the panel until I just start to break through the primer. Then in places where there are very tight curves like along the top of the door on a 70 Chevelle, I use a stiff piece of rubber hose to wrap my paper around. Never use your fingers to block sand, you will see you finger marks in the paint when you are done.

------------------
Mat Ellison
Lincoln, Ne
70 SS 396 Chevelle
62 Impala Sport Coupe
2001 Grand Prix GT
Aces #2424
http://www.geocities.com/elliboom/Mats_70_Chevelle.html?994781720927

A paint stick works well...use one of those paint sticks that you get from a paint store and wrap that in your sandpaper. The stick is flexible and able to match the contours of the body panels.


------------------

Erik

'69 Chevelle Sport Coupe, EFI355, TH350
'68 Chevrolet C10 Stepside Project, 292, t-56
'77 Chevrolet K20 Silverado LWB, 400CI, TH400

We double up the paint sticks on "Flat Surfaces".

It's really made the whole project "Straight(er)", for lack of a better word.



------------------
Team Members Forever #341

Richard, Judy, MAXX2

'69 Elke (Frame Off); GM HO 350/330-Mildly Ported Vortec Heads-Manley Severe Duty SS 2.02/1.60 Valves, Comp Cams Full Roller Package (Magnum)-Custom Grind CS 3315/3316 HR112-.510/.520 Lift, Edelbrock Air-Gap W/750 Performer Manual Choke-Performer 100 HP NOS, March Pulleys, 4L60 (Non Computer) W/Lokar Shifter, 12 Bolt Posi.

I remember reading one of MartinSr's posts where he said he has a variety stuff, (hoses of different diamenters and several flat boards of different sizes). It can be some odd stuff, but basically just find something that fits the size and contour of the area you're working on.

------------------
Bob Von Kaenel
70 SS 54k orig miles

Learned the hard way with wooden paint sticks. They were cupped and did not provide the desired result. Fortunately it was the wifes car, light blue, very few would notice MY screw up. Make sure wooden sticks are not warped or cupped. Also thick round cardboard tubes like the ones for masking paper or GM mouldings work really slick with glue on paper for contours. Cut to desired length, the longer the better. Karl

Thanks, Thats what I was looking for. I was doing it by hand and was thinking that was not the best way to be doing it.

All wood paint sticks eventually "CUP", therefore, you need alot of them.

As everyone here has stated "Whatever seems to work".

The more time you spend on the sanding, the better the "Outcome".

"Obvious Result".


------------------
Team Members Forever #341

Richard, Judy, MAXX2

'69 Elke (Frame Off); GM HO 350/330-Mildly Ported Vortec Heads-Manley Severe Duty SS 2.02/1.60 Valves, Comp Cams Full Roller Package (Magnum)-Custom Grind CS 3315/3316 HR112-.510/.520 Lift, Edelbrock Air-Gap W/750 Performer Manual Choke-Performer 100 HP NOS, March Pulleys, 4L60 (Non Computer) W/Lokar Shifter, 12 Bolt Posi.

I think we need clarification on paint sticks.
DO NOT use the small paint sticks from the automotive paint stores, use the 5 gallon stir sticks from Home Depot, etc. Cut them into 6-8" long pieces and use the sticky-backed sand paper on them.

Also, another thing to keep in mind when blocking out a car's surface.
Don't put too much pressure on the block, stick, hose or whatever you're using. You want the primed or painted surface to follow the tool's smooth surface. Pressing down too hard can make the tool conform to the surface and that will give you a freindly wavey car for sure.

Use a cross hatch pattern for intial cutting.

You CAN use a circular motion when wet-sanding with 1000-2000 grit paper.

[This message has been edited by Jimmy P (edited 07-16-2002).]