i made a post about this already but all my stuff was messed up, so im starting over. it's a '66 Sedan. right now the car has the original paint sanded down with a crappy primer job on it. i've decided im going to take to car back to metal and make sure the body is perfectly strait. The car is going to be black (i dont know how many kinds of black there is but it'll be black, as close to the '66 Tuxedo Black i can get), and im going to do everthing with PPG primers and paint etc...i'll probably do the door jambs and under teh trunk with the same arcylic paint as the interior

ok, i figure i'd take it down to metal with some 320 DA sandpaper

i know theres a few kinds of primers im going to need so im gonna need to know how much i should buy and how many coats i should do of each

after that im guessing its the basecoat, how much should i need for the car and how much reducer

and finally how much clear am i going to need

be nice, im not a painter and barely know what im talking about, i just want to make sure my painter doesnt rip me off

First thing I see wrong!!
Why treat the jams any different then the exterior?

I recall from the last post you wanted to use spray bomb paint from Year One to do the jams. Its either lacquer or enamel paint, either one is out to lunch for use now days when you have baseclear. Plus you can LIFT the paint if you dont know what you are doing when appling baseclear over lacquer and enamel.

Appling one type of paint on one surface then using a different type of paint on another surface IS STUPID.

Using 320 to remove paint to bare metal, post back in about 3 weeks when you got that one done :D If you plan on sanding then use 80 grit to remove the paint then 180 to remove the 80 grit scratches.

Since you live in CA you should be able to find someone who can media blast a car. Media blasting uses plastic beads to remove paint. No easier and faster way of removing paint. Ive got 2 places both within 1 hr drive that media blast, asked a quote on my 70-roughly 300 bucks :eek: . For 300 bucks I cant buy stripper and sandpaper etc to strip a car, plus AM NOT SWEATING MY ARSE OFF DOING IT.

1qt plus 1qt of reducer of etch primer for bare metal. DX1791(etch) and dx1792(reducer)
Depending of straightness of car before and after bodywork 1gal of primer surfacer. I like k38, use 1qt of k201
I would go with 1.5gal of basecoat(mixed with reducer)
1gal of clear 2055, 1qt of dcx61.
Plus you'll need 1gal of reducer dt870 or dt880

But since you plan on black, I would buy SS uerthane not baseclear. SS urethane is much deeper and richer then baseclear. Sitting next to each other I can tell a baseclear black and SS black. Then buy DCC SS urethane,anything else you are wasting money in my opinion...Eric

What Eric said, Its not worth busting your butt to get an inferior job done. For $300 you can have a car with a clean base to start with. Also think how much more sanding there is to go after you get it blasted.

ok forget what i said about door jambs, it'll all be the same paint

"But since you plan on black, I would buy SS uerthane not baseclear. SS urethane is much deeper and richer then baseclear. Sitting next to each other I can tell a baseclear black and SS black. Then buy DCC SS urethane,anything else you are wasting money in my opinion...Eric"

so is SS urethane a single stage paint? what is DCC SS urethane? are these two different paints or just different coats

ok, i'll get some prices on media blasting

should i just do the interior with the same paint as the exterior? i've seen some cars done like that, i just thought it'd be too shiny and hard to keep clean

Yes SS urethane is single stage urethane. PPG's DCC is a SS urethane. Not all paints are equal, for ex PPG basecoats are DBU and DBC, DBC being the higher end of the two. DBU looks muddy compared to DBC.

DCC is the higher end of SS and DAU is the lower end.

To achieve a lesser gloss or shine in SS or clear coat you can add a flattner. Depending on the gloss and the hardener used the amount of flattening agent(dx685) varies. DCC can be hardened with DU5 or du6,DFX7 and dcx61, each hardener requires a diff amount(dx685) to achieve a certain gloss

ok, so this so far, for the single stage do i need to buy the same amount as i would for base coat or more? which reducer for DCC SS Urethane?

DX1791(etch) 1qt
dx1792(reducer) 1qt

k38 1gal
k201 1qt

DCC SS Urethane 1.5gal??
reducer?

"To achieve a lesser gloss or shine in SS or clear coat you can add a flattner. Depending on the gloss and the hardener used the amount of flattening agent(dx685) varies. DCC can be hardened with DU5 or du6,DFX7 and dcx61, each hardener requires a diff amount(dx685) to achieve a certain gloss"

i'd like it to be very glossy and deep. and im going to need to add hardener, how much of this? should the paint store know and will they just do it for me? is DU5 an all-in-one hardener (i might have read the sentence wrong)? how much flattener?

i think im just gonna print this and show it too the paint store

John the outside of car WONT get flattener. I would only use flattener if you wanted the dash or inner fenderwells, under the hood sorta stuff a semigloss and not shiny.

DU5 is not some type of all in 1 product. The hardeners are rated for temp usage. I would go with the DCX61, just since you live in CA the temp is abit hotter then Iowa. Basically your painter should KNOW what hardener and reducer to use. There is NO PRESET hardeners and reducers it all varies on the spraying conditions.

DCC mixes to different ratios with the different hardeners. I believe the DU's are like 2:1:1 and dcx61 is like 4:2:1 not for sure. But once again the painter will know or should know this. This mix ratio is for shiny paint, no flattener is USED in this ratio

The mix ratios for the diff glosses when flattener is used is shown.
For example say you choose the DCX61 hardener and eggshell shine, you take 1 qt(32oz) of staight color or clear and add 22oz of DX685 and 8oz of DCX61 and NO REDUCER.

As you can see no mix ratio is the same, each hardener and product require different mix ratios
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/ratio.jpg