I have a lot of trim that is dull and hazy. I was told by someone that the trim is made of aluminum, then coated or anodized. They said the haze was due to oxidation. How can I polish it to make it shine?

I also have some stainless trim that I would like to polish, how do I do that?

TIA

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ericj205@nastyz28.com
71 RS/SS Camaro
95 Firebird Formula
65 Malibu SS convertible, #'s matching, needs total resto, interested in trade for similar condition 69-70 Chevelle SS or 67-69 Camaro Z28 or SS convertible

Eric, this can be done and there are several stages to go through to get that "bright" look.

ALUMINUM - You will first need to get the anodizing off. You can use some Easy-Off Oven Cleaner, spray it on, let it soak and then rinse off. You may need to repeat this process several times. It may also be necessary to use some fine grit paper or steel wool as well. If it still won't come off you may need some professional help to get it removed. Once the anodizing is removed, you can then go through the "buffing process" which is a several stage proceedure. Best results are achieved using a bench grinder with appropriate buffing wheels and compounds (see link below).

STAINLESS - This stuff is great to work with, you should be able to get it to almost a mirror-like finish. Again, the best results are attained with buffing wheels and compounds. If you have dents and bends then that is the difficult part. If the dents are small you can bang them out. It may also be necessary to use a fine file and paper to get the smooth surface back once the dents have been banged out.

I've been using Estwood buffing products for over ten years and am satisfied with the results. For information go to their website www.eastwoodco.com (http://www.eastwoodco.com) and click on the link for "Buffing and Finishing". Similar products are no doubt available at other outlets in your local area if you prefer.

If you show a little patience and take your time you should be happy with the finished product. Good luck.


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69 SS Sedan (http://www.angelfire.com/rock/69ss)
CanAm Chevelle Club (http://www.angelfire.com/folk/canam)
2003 Northern Chevelle Gathering (http://www.angelfire.com/folk/canam/page35.html)

thx don! cherry 69!

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Don_lightfoot:
Eric, this can be done and there are several stages to go through to get that "bright" look.

ALUMINUM - You will first need to get the anodizing off. You can use some Easy-Off Oven Cleaner, spray it on, let it soak and then rinse off. You may need to repeat this process several times. It may also be necessary to use some fine grit paper or steel wool as well. If it still won't come off you may need some professional help to get it removed. Once the anodizing is removed, you can then go through the "buffing process" which is a several stage proceedure. Best results are achieved using a bench grinder with appropriate buffing wheels and compounds (see link below).

STAINLESS - This stuff is great to work with, you should be able to get it to almost a mirror-like finish. Again, the best results are attained with buffing wheels and compounds. If you have dents and bends then that is the difficult part. If the dents are small you can bang them out. It may also be necessary to use a fine file and paper to get the smooth surface back once the dents have been banged out.

I've been using Estwood buffing products for over ten years and am satisfied with the results. For information go to their website www.eastwoodco.com (http://www.eastwoodco.com) and click on the link for "Buffing and Finishing". Similar products are no doubt available at other outlets in your local area if you prefer.

If you show a little patience and take your time you should be happy with the finished product. Good luck.

Nice Nice 300 ya got there Don
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

once its polished should I coat it with something to protect it?

The stainless will stay looking great with minimal care for a long time. However, the polished aluminum will spot easily from water, rain and even dew. It will require frequent polishing to keep it looking good. If you're polishing aluminum trim for an outdoor always daily driver, you may want to clear coat the polished aluminum or even powder coat. You can also get these pieces chromed as well for a show stopping appearance.

A regular treatment of something like "Mothers Aluminum Polish" should do the trick.


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69 SS Sedan (http://www.angelfire.com/rock/69ss)
CanAm Chevelle Club (http://www.angelfire.com/folk/canam)
2003 Northern Chevelle Gathering (http://www.angelfire.com/folk/canam/page35.html)

I did mine with a drill and a polishing wheel. It takes time to get the coating off.I got a polishing kit from Harbor Freight, it works pretty good, but I still haven't figured out which compound is coarse and which is fine. They both seem to do the same thing. Red rouge, White diamond.

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64 ElCamino (http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Jul/20027306594843713937468.jpg) 350 700r4 3.42 posi website (http://tiresmoke.iwarp.com/)

I am in the process of polishing the trim on my '68 elco. Forget about the easy-off. Although it will eventually remove anodizing, it takes too long/too many applications to get it all off. Just take all of you trim to a plating company and have them dipped in the caustic soda. Its much faster, gets it all, and doesn't cost that much. I think I paid $15 at El Monte Plating. Spend your time on the polishing part, it will take plenty to get it right.

Just my .02

Tim

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* * *
Parts is Parts, And Pieces is Pieces

no matter how you cut it, it never looks like factory anodizing. in my opinion, removing the anodizing ruins the trim piece. When polishiong, it gets too shiny and doesnt look like the original. just my .02

there is a guy here in virginia that does all my trim. it looks great when i get it back, then i put por-15's glisten PC on it. never have to touch it again. i'll dig up his number if you want to ship it. it was like $10 or $15 per piece.

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<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by mkarstm:
no matter how you cut it, it never looks like factory anodizing. in my opinion, removing the anodizing ruins the trim piece. When polishiong, it gets too shiny and doesnt look like the original. just my .02<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Some of us aren't purists and originality isn't an issue. I like shiny.

Tim

well eric if you like shiny then go for it . like i said , its just my .02

thanks everyone for your replies! Its too late for originality on my ride, so I think shiny would look sweet!

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ericj205@nastyz28.com
71 RS/SS Camaro
95 Firebird Formula
65 Malibu SS convertible, #'s matching, needs total resto, interested in trade for similar condition 69-70 Chevelle SS or 67-69 Camaro Z28 or SS convertible

Actually when you re-anodize the piece after your final polish stage using a blue or white compound the nickel acetate bath to seal the anodizing will dull it down to what will be close to factory, maybe dead on.
To get a good cut/polish for stainless I use the black emery compound, then brown, then finish with white. Stainless polishes up very nicely if you achieve alot of heat from the friction. Moving the piece opposite the wheel direction is called the cut. Moving the piece in the same direction of the wheel is called the polish.

[This message has been edited by BAD415 (edited 01-29-2003).]

After you have removed the anodizing just lay a 4X4" piece of wood that is approx the length of the trim on a bench or saw horses. Use the wood to sand against so you can apply a little pressure without damaging the trim. Get a bucket of water and use 320 to 400 to 600 wet dry. Once you have brought the sand lines to near extinction, use a good hand rub metal polish. I've found that a product called Hollywood's metal polish works great for finishing and is very easy maintenance. www.hollywoods1.com

Using bench grinders with compounds to polish small trim pieces is a pain and not smart for everyone to try. The object is to create a smooth surface that reflects light. In a nut shell, that is the polishing process. The flatter/smoother the surface (including sanding scratches), the better the reflection of light ie: "the shine"! I just tricked out a 28' boat using this polishing technique and I'm telling you, it's the quickest way through a crappy job!!

Clear coating is a waste of time as aluminum is porous and will corrode or oxidize through any non-coated or chipped area. (FYI: Aluminum corrodes... paint oxidizes). That is why coated aluminum turns yellowish soon after you coat it. If you want the original, dull factory look then polish it and have it anodized clear. I personally like the shiny, better than stock look so I'm OK with rubbing it out once or twice a year.... takes an hour tops! Shiny trim over nice paint makes the car IMO!!

I did mine with a drill and a polishing wheel. It takes time to get the coating off.I got a polishing kit from Harbor Freight, it works pretty good, but I still haven't figured out which compound is coarse and which is fine. They both seem to do the same thing. Red rouge, White diamond.

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64 ElCamino (http://mediaservice.photoisland.com/auction/Jul/20027306594843713937468.jpg) 350 700r4 3.42 posi website (http://tiresmoke.iwarp.com/)

Neither of those compunds are "course" or cutting. Use the red first, then the white. Mark a new buff with the compund that you first use on it, and then NEVER use it for a different compund. The buffs will always hold the roughest coumpund used on them. I would use the Red, then change the buff, and use the white, then change the buff and use a liquid polish for finish.