I'm stripping the paint off my '70 and I used chemical paint stripper. I scraped off the newest paint and it is down to the original paint in most places but in other places it is to the original primer and even in some places it is down to the metal. In other words, it is not very even. I did not plan to go all the way to metal.

So, I was planning to start painting the car with urethane primer followed by base and clear urethane IN ABOUT A MONTH. Today when I finished up stripping the hood, I just took some cheapo spray can primer to keep some of the bigger bare metal spots from rusting. The car is in a closed building by the way. So here are my questions that I desperately need help with to ease my mind and do the right thing.

1. Is it possible to sand the hood and feather out the splotches of different paint coats (orig paint, orig primer, and bare metal) and still be alright? Keep in mind that I am looking for a perfect straight finish. Will the high build primer do that work for me or should I go ahead and use more chemicals to go all the way to the metal? What would you do if you wanted it done RIGHT?

2. If it is the case that it is recommended to go to bare metal, I understand that I will need to use etching primer. Now, on the other hand if it is recommended by you that I should paint over the original paint, primer, and bare metal splotches (feathered out), will I have to use etching primer here too?

3. I have never used a high build urethane primer. How well will it even up the surface where it is down the metal in spots as compared with the plain sanded original paint? This only applies to if I decide NOT to go to bare metal.

Thanks for helping. I am looking forward to a showroom finish.

1.Don't even think about putting primer or anything else over that paint that has had stripper on it! When you use striper, you go to bare metal PERIOD. The high build primer would "smooth" out the surface no problem....untill the remnants of stripper comes out in the final paint! http://www.chevelles.com/forum/eek.gif

2.You could use an etching primer over it all, if there are lorge bare metal areas, but this is a moot point being you now have to strip the whole thing.

3. The high build primer wont do anything for you, other than give you a film to block to that flat surface you are looking for.

------------------
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

I'm no expert but I agree with MartinSr. I chemically stripped my car & heard the same thing. It also makes sense that you would not expect the chemical stripper to magically become benign. I spent MANY hours/days/weeks working to strip to bare metal. I then applied DP-40 to everything before handing it over to my expert body man.

One thing I found was that the readily available chemical strippers are not that great on lacquer. I ended up wet sanding everything to bare metal once I stripped down to the factory primer & in some places, the original top coat.

Good luck,



------------------
Phil Wise
67 SS Convertible
(now on the down slope of the resto curve)
ACES # 834, TC # 231
Photos of a work in progress (http://users.starpower.net/pwise/chevelle)

Sounds like a fine candidate of soda blasting or plastic media blasting.

I have sen a soda-blast job, and it took the paint and left some writing on teh quarter panels that was on from before the paint. Also, no disassembly was required. Car was driven to and back from the blaster with windows in and doors on.

K

------------------
64 2 Door HT 6-230 and a 'Glide
Chevello's Chevelle Page (http://home.earthlink.net/~clipper21/)
Formerly 71 Elco
TC Member #1155

My elky had been repainted with a very tough, thick epoxy primer and I found that chemical stripers were slow and messy. I used a 4 1/2" grinder with 24 grit sanding disc, being careful not to sand in one spot long enough to heat up and warp the metal. That combo will cut through any paint/primer, the downside being a little extra primer/filler to ensure all scratches are filled. The doors, fenders, hood, and the rear quarter replacement don't have as much primer/paint on them and an electric DA sander with 60 grit will strip them.

The point is though as MARTINSR says the chemical stripper has got to be removed, even if you have to sand it to bare metal.

I was hoping to shoot some etching/filler on my Elky today but some showers have moved in and I'm on hold. Could be a good thing though, I can take some extra time to get ready for it.

I see your from SC too sir Crunch. Another good web site for help on body/paint work is the Autobodystore.com. Many knowledgable people such as MARTINSR post there and I would not be as far along as I am were it not for their input. a video called painting 101 is availible there also, not much info on bodywork but very informative otherwise.

You can see my naked Elky in the second link in my signature. Took that pic about a week ago, I have now completed the bed and am ready for primer as soon as time/weather permit.



------------------
Elcaminos are special!

I'd rather walk around with a Chevrolet hubcap in my hand than drive a Ford


work in progress
Big James Elky(AKA Ol Paint) (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Big%20James4XL-Ol%20Paint1.jpg)
www.chevelles.com/showroom/workgoeson1.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/workgoeson1.jpg)

[This message has been edited by Big James 4XL (edited 04-15-2001).]

Even if you magically got all the stripper off, seems to me the paint will be softened from the stuff anyway. I'll agree with everyone else u gotta go all the way now.

ooooh thank goodness for this board. Thanks guys, I owe you one. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif