5" hood scoop on my steel hood [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: 5" hood scoop on my steel hood


sean jackson
Jan 26th, 05, 2:16 AM
hi I have a body guy (who is doing a great job) who is doing the body work on my 68 elky , I decided that I wanted to install a 5" hood scoop on my steel hood , he says he hasn't done one yet , but has a good idea , does anyone have any good advice on how to install it properly , so as not to have it crack and fly off , we thought fiberglassing it and laying a thin coat of bondo , but I've seen others rivet theirs down , what do you guys think?

baddbob71
Jan 26th, 05, 7:39 AM
Fusor makes an adhesive for attaching fiberglass and plastic body components and offers a lifeime warrantee. I've used it in the past without any failures. Years ago using only fiberglass matt and resin was a 50/50 chance and cracking was common. The first thing your body man will need to do is make sure the scoop fits the car without any stress, make modifications to the scoop untill it fits perfect. If the hood is bare metal apply 2 coats of epoxy primer per Fusor's directions. Use screws every 4 inches or so to hold the scoop in position and test fit. Make sure the screw holes in the scoop are just a little larger than the screws so the fiberglass doesn't crack up when screwing it down. Apply a good amount of adhesive, position the scoop and screw it down with just enough force to hold it-don't screw it so tight that all the adhesive comes out. Let it set overnight then remove the screws, chamfer the screw holes with a large drill bit and use a coarse grinder at low speed to taper the scoop mounting flange untill it is paper thin on the outer edge of it's perimeter. Use resin and mat to blend out the seam onto the hood, finish with long strand filler, then regular filler and prime. Hope this made sense, it works for me. Takes quite a bit of time to install these correctly. I usually apply some seam sealer to the inside perimeter of the scoop just to insure no water will work it's way in and freeze an crack in cold conditions. If you need Fusor's part number check out their website of I can find my stuff in the shop and post it later. Bob

bowtie455
Jan 26th, 05, 9:13 AM
i did mine myself and am well pleased with the results.badbob offers excellent advice and imho you would do well to listen to him.the only thing i would warn against is you mentioned using a little bondo.i prefer short-strand fiberglass filler and then use polyester filler putty for final finishing.i don't trust bondo not to crack later on on a scoop installation and it isn't waterproof like the fiberglass filler.if you have a hard time getting Lord Fusor i used 3M AUTOMIX panel bonding adhesive. i couldn't find Lord Fusor products locally and the downside is you need a special applicator gun to apply the 3M product which adds to the cost.

bowtie455
Jan 26th, 05, 9:21 AM
you didnt mention whether the scoop you have mounts on top or from underneath.

sean jackson
Jan 26th, 05, 12:16 PM
the scoop mounts on top of the hood , we were thinking of cutting a triangular hole , (just between the braces of the hood ) to make functionable , also the cracking is only from the stress of the rivets holding it down ? or stress from high speed racing and torque make stress cracks on the finished painted scoop? last and not least thanks the info I've gotten here was much more detailed than other sites I posted at! also the scoop I got is sc-115 from http://www.up22.com/scoopw1.htm , I was told good comments on their product and they seem thicker than the old harwood scoop, and yes please repost the fusor site address!

baddbob71
Jan 26th, 05, 3:16 PM
When these jobs crack it is usually a problem with stress, expansion and contraction of the two different materials (steel and fiberglass) or corrosion problems usually starting from inside the scoop from areas that were neglected-(bare steel). The fusor does a good job of anchoring the fiberglass to the steel. Cutting a hole in the hood on the inside will help save the bond and allow some flexibility for expansion and contraction of the two dissimilar materials. Good luck on the project! Bob

sean jackson
Jan 27th, 05, 12:28 AM
one other fellow wrote to me and said that I should paint both the hood and the scoop separate and then place a gasket between and then rivet , I like baddbob7's advice so far!

SoCalRat
Jan 27th, 05, 12:11 PM
Baddbob1
Am I correct in thinking the method you describe would work for a steel scoop as well?

sean jackson
Jan 27th, 05, 2:47 PM
the only problem with a steel hood scoop was that no body had the right size and it didn,t have the spline going down the center ,seems no one makes em!