How tough a job is it to replace the body mount bushings on a 66 chevelle. Have started looking and inspecting and checking to see if bolts can be loosened. It seems that whatever the bolt near the top of the rear springs is screwed into is turning. Is there any access to this area or does one have to cut a hole in the trunk to get at it?

Squirt some good penetrating oil (like PB Blaster)on all of them a few times over a week or so before you even attempt breaking any of them loose. You will need to aim the stuff with that red straw to get it in there good. They should break loose after that stuff has done it's job. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Have fun! :D

Thanks, thought I'd try just a 3/8 drive on one side, all turned without any trouble,; because whatever they were screwed into just spun up there inside somewhere, the two behind the rear wheel were no trouble to solve, they are loose and off and back on. But what do I do about the one up under the frame near the spring and the one under the door and the one just behind the front wheel. Is there anyway to access whatever it is that the bolt is screwed into? Or is the only option to cut access holes in the trunk and floor?

If the caged nut is spinning inside it's cage, the only option is to cut the floor/trunk pan to gain access to the nut. I had this problem with a couple on my 71. I cut a circle with a hole saw and welded the circle back when everything was finished.

thats kind of what I thought. Any advise on how to locate where on the floor pan I should drill?

Drill a small hole from underneath just beside where the bolt goes into body

On my 65 the bolt threads into a flat iron that is square and at the factory would not turn around because the "cage" held it from so doing. But with age, the bolt rusts solid to the "nut". As an alternative to cutting a hole in the trunk above the "nut", you might try cutting the bolt off with a hack saw flush with the body and then opening the body brace by an incision on the side, enough to pry that nut out. Then weld up the "incision" in the side of the brace. I call it a brace because on my 65, if I recall correctly, that body mount nut is within the brace that runs across the underside of the body.

Well I got at the ones located beneath the firewall by droping the inner wheel well and there was an access hole in the frame that I could get a hold of the nut, the cage was allready manged by the last guy that changed the bolts in 94. on the mounts just beneath in the middle of the door there was a flat piece in a cage and I finaly got those out, there was a little rust there even a little hole in the floor because the last guy used to long a bolt. On the mount just in front on the rear wheels there were no bolts or bushings; isn't there suppose to be one or at least a rubber bushing there? The mounts up near the spring seats are still in and a pain; don't see anyother option except to cut a hole above the nut; any suggest here? The bolts behind the rear wheels and back by the back bumper are loose and OK. The seems to be conflicting information as to where the mounts go on a 66 chevelle SS. MY assembly manuel and the catalogs conflict. Does anyone know which positions should have the rubber bushings and bolts and which ones only get a rubber bushing? Recommendations on rubber as apposed to poly?
Thanks much, Jim

my understanding is the Polys tend to give a firmer ride with a little less flex vs the rubber the downside to the polys is they have a potential of eventually squeaking pretty bad. If you want a firmer ride and a little less flex in the body go with poly otherwise stick with the rubber.

James,

Search for body mounts there are many posts.
I had to cut holes in my trunk to get access to those bolts. The bolt is about 2" in and behind the corner of the wheel well. Send me an email and I'll send you a pic. There are also bolts by the rear of the front seat. There is a dome to allow height of the bolt, they are right there. The two in front of the rear wheels usually were not there. I think big blocks with manual had them. I am thinking about ordering a convertable kit which has 2 extra and adding those.

Depending on which bolt it is you can cut a small hole in the rear wheel well (from the outside) and hold the cage nut with a wrench and turn the bolt out or break it off. The wheel well is probably rusted there anyway and easy to fix by welding in a patch and covering everything with undercoat. Cleaner than cutting the trunk floor, but only works for the rear lower bolts.

Good Luck