Heres my specs -350,lightly ported original 64cc camel humps,about 10.3 to 1, XE262H cam, RPM manifold, 600 holley, TH350,shift kit, stock converter 1 5/8 headers, 26'' tires, 3.55 gears.Ran a 13.8 @ 99, 2.0-60ft with open carrier. Since then I've installed a Powertrax locker. Throttle response is great.Daily driver all summer, Race it 1, may 2 a year. Is it worth changing my stock converter to higher stall and if so, what would you recommend?

For your combo I would buy a Summit 2200 converter.
I had one that I bought for $99 that outperformed a "custom" made $380 BTE converter...

You'll probably have better luck getting Summit to back up their product if you have a problem too...

Id say yes depending on how you look at things. Truth be told, that motor would only call for a mild converter, if anything. So when it comes down to it, you wouldnt see a huge difference at the track. It would be pretty minimal, but there would be a difference. But, when you are driving it, it will "feel" faster. The difference will normally feel better than it actually is when you run at the track, and when it all comes down to it, the most imporatant part of a street car is how fun it is to drive.

The best way I can explain it is like this. If youve ever been in a big block car, and then in the same car but with small block power and they both actually run just as fast at the track, which one hits you harder and feels faster? It usually feels like the big block is faster, even though track times dont indicate so. Thats usually because the torque hits sooner, and there is more of it. But, a hot small block that revs further and has more gear can be just as fast, but most of the time, it wont feel like it. Kinda like cruising 50 on a moped(thats a heck of a moped) as opposed to cruising 50 in a cadillac. The moped feels faster. Thats not the best example cause its mostly due to the fact that your out in the open in a smaller vehicle, but it still tricks the seat of your pants at the same time.

A converter that stalls somewhere between 2000-2500 rpm would be nice for your car. When you first drop the hammer, it will hit a lot harder, making the car feel way more fun to drive. In the long run though, once it starts to spin its not going to accellerate much different than it does now. A better converter shaves off 60 footer times, but as long as both converters were good to begin with, there souldnt be any noteable difference in MPH at the track. Know what Im sayin. But, you cant get that initial drop of the hammer kick out of your head, so a converter close to 1000rpm over stock will definitely trick you into thinking your cars performance improved much more than it did, making it more fun to drive. But, I would not expect a drastic change in quarter mile ET unless you really shelled out the change for a good one. If you have ridden in many cars in different configuratons with big and small blocks, stock and big converters, and mild and rad gears and everything else, you will have a much better idea of what Im saying when a car can trick you at times.

In conclusion, no its not worth it if you expect a big gain at the track. Yes, it is worth it if you want it to be a little more fun to drive.

Greg and Jake got it right..2200-2500 stall
B&M torkmaster 2400 is perfect IMHO for a small block application.
Get some drag radials too.
That and the convertor would tremendously help your 60 ft.

Thanks guys! Greg, you made so much sense. Big gain at the track? not a big deal for me. More fun to drive? SOLD! I'll be pickin up a Tork Master in a couple of weeks. Having that torque down low is soooooo much fun. Thanks again.
Don

10.3: with an XE262???? :eek: Isn't that a recipe for detonation? Have you looked closely at your plugs for signs? I would think you would require race gas for that combo. Have you figured your DCR?

Troy, haven't had a problem. I use 94 octane. 10.3 is a guess. Plugs are fine. 4 years now since rebuild.