I am planning on stripping (blasting) my convertible top frame and want to paint it body color-Marina Blue(Actually early 90's GM Maedium Quasar Blue Metalic) (NOT black or off-white factory colors).

I recall the paint being PPG Delstar(?) or Delstar primer was used (paints were compatible).

Anyway.

After stripping, what type of primer should I use? (Epoxy, etc). I presume I should etch the metal.
Do I need to apply sealer?

If I choose an Non-BC/CC paint, can I still clear over it?

Its been a while, and I might have the shop spray it to save me some time. Want to give them some good specs though...

If I go it myself, would a quart do the top frame? Or would I need more?

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"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Quik66.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/eng7.jpg

[This message has been edited by 1966_L78 (edited 06-11-2002).]

A quart should do nicely. Prep the frame parts as you would the body, blast, etch, epoxy prime, blocksand, another coat of prime if necessary (bare metal), paint, clear. If the paint does not call for clear (single stage) I wouldn't clear it... if it is BC/CC then clear away http://www.chevelles.com/forum/smile.gif here is a tip for painting smaller parts, smaller fan width, lower pressure, take your time and results will be perfect!

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X-Ray View of my Chevelle :D (http://www.normieschevelle.com/sideview.jpg)
Getting Closer (http://www.normieschevelle.com/passfull.jpg)
my baby in primer (http://www.normieschevelle.com/prime/primerdrv.jpg)

Thanks...

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"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Quik66.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/eng7.jpg

L78, if I remember right that color of yours is a heavy metallic right? If you choose to spray that color in a non base clear system you might have problems getting it look nice. A metallic in single stage is pretty hard to apply right, you have to worry about getting the pattern right along with getting the gloss. As where in base you just worry about getting the pattern right and plus its not so touchy either.

You can clear over single stage paint but if you clear it why not just have bought base clear in the first place!

Etch the frame with a self etching primer not expoy then apply a primer surfacer or 2k primer then block and reprime. Blocking expoy is like sanding half dried glue, also you wont need a sealer, sealers are nothing but a waste of paint. They have there place and thats not a big one. A quart in base will be more then enough that will make two quarts, I think that PPG single is mixed 4-2-1 not for sure but that would make a little over a quart and a half...eric

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1970 chevelle
1970 chevelle SS455 not a typo its a buick baby
1949 and 1972 chevy trucks
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/bc/sevt_chevelles

I don't recommend clearing over single stage paints until they are cured and wet sanded and then cleared with the correct paint.
Being acrlic color then acrylic clear.
Urethane color, then urethane clear.
BC/CC it and be tickled the first time...

RandyB..

I forget if the paint was a BC/CC or a single stage... I remember it was a uerathane, and I sprayed 3 coats of urethane clear over it, but I don't recall spraying any clear on the smaller parts (dash, door jambs, firewall, engine), so probably just a single stage...

I was thinking about the clear coat as extra protection, but it isn't really worth it... Being the top frame, it should be protected enough, and the only places would be at the joints, etc. And those spots, the thicker paint (more coats, base and clear) would be just as bad and maybe worse...

Its not a show car, just wanted to look good (decent)... I am probably going to use an relatively inexpensive gun anyway, since I don't do a lot of painting...

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"Once you go RAT, you never go back..."
TC #1366
Tony
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Quik66.jpg
http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/eng7.jpg