anyone used this, if so can you give me some advice on using it. i have a cracked thermostat housing and would like to try this to fix it

thanks

JB Weld is right up there with duct tape and bailing wire. I always keep at tube in the traveling toolbox. Depending on how bad the crack is it should work ok, trick is getting the part clean and grease free. Why not just buy a new one they are only like 7.99 (10.99 for shiny chrome ones)?

You can try it but I haven't had much luck with it on things that expand and contract from heating/cooling cycles (like an intake manifold). Do prep it like Patrick said though. I'd just get a new Tstat housing unless it's a rare, hard to find (read expensive) one.

i have used stuff called epoxy putty on water lines at house works great it will span a gap since its a putty. i would use that only as emergency temp. fix on a car.
you can even get houseing with the flange and hole in it for throttle return spring if your that worried about being correct. don't save 10 bucks and be spraying your engine when it fails and it will, probally at the worst possible time.

my thermostat housing bolts on the intake one of them are kinda stripped and i retapped it so i dont really want to take the housing off. I need to get my car moved so for a temp fix i though JB WELD mite work. It is a crome housing (nothing special or rare) it is leaking at the seam were the neck attaches to the base on the bottom side. housing is only less than 1 year old and it is leaking already. so this will be a temp fix until i can fiqure out something. i might heli coil it later on.

Sure the housing is corroding away? I had a chrome neck do it after about a year. I started to corrode right into the O-ring area and was ready to leak if I hadn't caught it first.
Just a thought.

Jeff

I've used it. Wouldn't use it the way you are trying to. Too much thermal dynamics and pressure there .

You might consider just leaving the cap loose, moving the car, then puting a heli-coil, as you mentioned, in the intake. Next time you install a housing, use a THIN coat of black RTV on both sides of the housing gasket. I guaranty it won't leak.

its not leaking at the gasket part its the actual housing that is leaking the coolant must have eatn rite though it. i have a bead of RTV sealent and a Oring gasket thats not the part that is leaking. i just dont want to take it off rite now cause i got to move the car and i know i cant retighten that bolt again without pulling the threads out

My cheapo chrome lasted 2 years. Corrosion ate a hole right in the top. How far ya moving it?

JB Weld should work fine. I once patched a crack in the water jacket portion of the intake manifold on my 96 T_Bird and it lasted until after I traded in the car..

Like was mentioned previously, make SURE it's clean and dry and let it set up for 24 hrs (at least) before it sees any pressure...

got to move it about 1/4 of a mile just down the road on a country road
cant push it cause its up hill , other wise i would just roll it there

Hello,

Clean the housing with sandpaper, then lacquer thinner, and try JB Weld. It will not look pretty but should work for a while.

I bottomed out my Moroso deep sump oil pan and ripped the steel / separated the rear edge of the sump just ahead of the bell housing. It was a huge gap across the rear edge of the sump that dumped all the oil. I tapped the section back into place with a small hammer and wood, cleaned it up, then put a bead of JB Weld to seal it. That was 6 years ago. Car does not leak a drop. Someday I will yank the engine and change the pan.

Good luck, Joe

Note to self: Don't buy a car from DITTZO ;)

Just kidding Curt!

got to move it about 1/4 of a mile just down the road on a country road
cant push it cause its up hill , other wise i would just roll it thereif you are only moving the car 1/4 mi, i don't think i would be too worried about it overheating. just go for the old school fix... duct tape!

1/4th mile?!???!!


Fill it up, leave the cap loose, fire it up and move it. Just watch the temp gauge. I've driven farther than that with busted radiator hose.

If you're worried carry an antifreeze jug of water along.

:thumbsup:

Shouldn't you be able to run the 1/4 in about 14 seconds? Remember most cold engines take 3-5 minutes to warm up enough to even open a 160-18- degree t-stat, plenty of time to drive 3 blocks

I tried to fix my plastic handled car duster. JB Weld didnt hold it at all after it dried. I guess it doesnt work to well on plastic.

Mine ate a hole through it.

Get a new housing and save yourself the trouble. JB Quick is awesome on plastic and minor repairs but I wouldnt use it on anything too important.

im going to try that jb weld if it works hey i might not have to change my housing then. . i hate to drive it know cause i dont want to get coolant spraying all over my engine compartment. if it leaks after this well then i guess i have to change it. it is leaking from the bottom of the neck on the housing so you wont see the jb weld unless i get sloppy with it hehe. thanks guys ill keep ya posted to let you know if it works out.

thanks!!
70chevy