Ignition Question [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Ignition Question


Gary Moore
Mar 31st, 99, 6:58 PM
I just finished replacing the stock points in my chevelle with a pertronix module, install went without a hitch (why the instructions tell you to run the wires through the distributer window...tacky, I took the wires through the bottom of the dist.) Several things I have noticed and would like some advise:
My chevelle is a 1972 big block SS, all original except for the pertronix and a mallory coil, it has a functioning cowl induction.
1. When cold the car is just as hard to start as with the points.
2. I did not see anything in the instructions regarding setting a new point gap.
3. It looks as though there are three condensers on the car, one with the points (removed), one mounted on the coil and the third mounted on the firewall near the dist., the one on the coil wires to the (-) side of the coil, the one on the firewall gos to the (+) side. Anyone have a clue what these last two do?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

JWagner
Mar 31st, 99, 7:30 PM
The extra condensers are for radio noise suppression.

odie
Mar 31st, 99, 7:43 PM
Hey Gary-- Just in case you haven't thought of it yet, check the voltage going to your distributor at the distributor. My Chevelle had a resistor wire that reduced the voltage to 9 volts going thru the points. It performed the function of the ballast resistor that I had on some earlier cars & when I went to an HEI that requires 12 volts, & when I didn't see a ballast resistor, I assumed the voltage wasn't reduced. I had similar symtoms to yours. I had to go back into the harness & tap into a heavy ignition wire that carried the full 12 volts, bypassing & eliminating the resistor wire. Hope this helps. Good Luck.....ODIE

67ss396
Mar 31st, 99, 8:15 PM
ODIE is right on! When I put an HEI in my 67 I knew I needed a full 12V. Unfortunately the wire I tapped into wasn't a good strong source. When I wondered why the HEI didnt seem to start or perform any better we checked the voltage and it was only 10.7 volts. I then tapped into the pink wire coming off the back of the ignition switch and ran a 10 gauge wire all the way to the HEI. That gave the HEI almost 13 volts and it made all the difference. Good luck

71Bu
Mar 31st, 99, 10:03 PM
67ss396 is right-on. I put HEI on my '71 350(was 307) and I not only had to lose the resistor wire you must also increase the size of the wire. You must replace it all the way from the firewall. It is the wire that comes from the neutral safety switch if you have an automatic.
Hope this helps
Luke

Havoc
Apr 1st, 99, 2:53 AM
i'm pretty sure that the wire that comes from the nuetral safety switch is for that starter, and only receives power when the key is turned all the way. if you want to tap a wire for direct 12 (or more)volts to the ignition, you can tap into the pink one coming from the ignition switch. I think it's for the signals (don't have a diagram with me at the moment), but it should provide voltage only when the ignition is turned on. verify this with a meter or test light before cutting anythign though.

------------------
Ian McDermott
1970 Chevelle SS 396
Columbia University
New York, NY.
E-mail: havoc@graffiti.net
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