Bondo chunk repair :( [Archive] - Chevelle Tech

: Bondo chunk repair :(


feedphillipnow
Apr 12th, 04, 9:06 PM
In my rear quarter passenger side, near the back window and trunk lid there is a 4x5" area that had a little flap hanging when I bought the car so I broke it off, it was like a little 1/8" thich plate of bondo and paint. 2 things come to mind,
1 is that it wasnt properly repaired, obviously smile.gif Unless it got hit and threw it out of wack and popped up.
And the second thing im wondering here is what should I do with it? This rear area I heard can "flex" maybe shift a little bit. The rest of the quarter panel is in good shape so I'd like to fix this area, it's the last nasty section on this body. What type filler should I use?

Mr.McFast
Apr 12th, 04, 10:34 PM
im not a body man but i can tell ya that bondo will work you can get it from walmart.... you will need to get those like scraper dills there too made by bondo the company and mix it up as directed and start smearing it on ......this is after which you have the spot to bare metal and then you smear some on and let it dry and keep a gone build it up over the surface and sand it back down and when you get pretty close then start usin some finer grit sand paper and a straight edge would help you alot too....... i hope i was some help graemlins/thumbsup.gif smile.gif :rolleyes:

feedphillipnow
Apr 13th, 04, 4:02 PM
What about the Bondo with the little fiber things in it, or another brand? Would something work better for the rear quarters? I heard this area can shift or expand more than other areas leading it to crack.

SS_Dave
Apr 13th, 04, 4:30 PM
To do it right, you need to remove all the old bondo. Look at the repair and see if you can work some of the low metal up to require much less filler. If not, make sure the metal is free from
rust, dirt, oil, wax, water, silicone, or anything else that could act like a release agent for body filler. Use a 36 or 40 grit DA and rough up the area. Use something like Dura Glass or similar for a filler. Allmetal or Duraglass use aluminum and fiberglass respectivly. Do your primary fill with these and finish with a good quality body filler in a thin coat. Primer and guide coat and block sand to shape. Paint as desired.

This is the short class for body work.
Martin Seniour and others are the real deal here, I am just a weekend mud slinger.


Dave

feedphillipnow
Apr 13th, 04, 6:40 PM
I'll look for the Duraglass or Allmetal was the other one right? I'd like to try another brand or the right brand for this area, Bondo seems to work well for really light filler areas and tiny pinholes, but it doesnt offer much metal content in it for strength does it? Lots of stories on Bondo though, some people sware by it... "use it right and it will last forever" Somewhat true I guess..... Ive done lots and lots of bondo work, as little as possible, and none on this car until now, this will be my only bondo on the car :D I can live with it. I'll keep my eye out.

feedphillipnow
Apr 13th, 04, 11:04 PM
Whats the story on this "Dynatron, Ultimate" Premium lightweight hardener. Would this stuff tackle the job ok? I've got quite a bit left, just curious if anyone has used it for tough jobs.

feedphillipnow
Apr 13th, 04, 11:08 PM
I read in some old forums moisture can get in some areas. And this stuff may not be the best thing to use? What areas are proned to getting high moister counts?

baddbob71
Apr 13th, 04, 11:43 PM
If this is the area where the quarter meets the trunk filler panel just ahead of the decklid there is a seam there that shouldn't be filled. The expansion and contraction of the two panels will eventually crack the filler allowing moisture in and will ruin the adhesion of the filler. In the old days these seams were sometimes leaded without any problems, especially convertibles. Why is the filler there? Corrosion repair or just a low spot? You can use filler in this area if you keep the seam open then prime and use a quality seam sealer that will flex. Hope I helped. Bob

SS_Dave
Apr 14th, 04, 9:36 AM
Originally posted by pnutkemist:
I read in some old forums moisture can get in some areas. And this stuff may not be the best thing to use? What areas are proned to getting high moister counts? Don't use any filler as the first coat unless it is waterproof. Regular bondo/body filler is not water proof. If you fill pinholes with regular body filler, it will allow moisture to seep in through the pinholes. The bondo will absorb it like a sponge. Then it will promote rust and bubbling under the paint. Either weld the holes up, or use a water proof filler first.

Dave

feedphillipnow
Apr 14th, 04, 12:59 PM
What do you mean when you say weld the holes up? I took out this peice of bondo a few months ago and threw on some quick primer so it wouldnt rust any worse. Last night I sanded the heck out of it, grinding, sanding, got up all the dirt, greese, and rust spots. Looked real good, this is that area where the top of the quarter meets the rear deck filler. When I was down to bare metal it didnt look bad at all, straight and no real rotting at all. So maybe this section was filled do to another area close by. Good and bad news here, after all that I used "Dynatron Ultimate" which I think is a pretty basic filler, probably not waterproof or moister proof. It looks REALLY good, almost like new... close to new atleast. I tried living that little line where the deck filler meets into it, but im not sure it would be enough. Should I tear it up and do it a different way, im not laying down pricey paint on something that will bubble and crack.....
:eek:

feedphillipnow
Apr 14th, 04, 1:02 PM
New idea! Maybe I can leave most the work I've done, but the section right around the deck lid I can tear up again and do differently? This whole area is about 5x5" give or take. I wish I had photos with me. Just the section more towards the right of the deck lid, close to the edge, that work came out real nice so I hope I can be ok on what ive done....

feedphillipnow
Apr 14th, 04, 4:54 PM
http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v138/Supercharger/untitled.jpg
http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v138/Supercharger/record_scans_040804_003.jpg
http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v138/Supercharger/record_scans_040804_002.jpg
http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v138/Supercharger/record_scans_040804_001.jpg


I HOPE THIS WORKS! :D

feedphillipnow
Apr 14th, 04, 4:56 PM
<img src=http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v138/Supercharger/record_scans_040804_003.jpg>
http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v138/Supercharger/record_scans_040804_003.jpg

feedphillipnow
Apr 14th, 04, 4:57 PM
http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v138/Supercharger/record_scans_040804_001.jpg

feedphillipnow
Apr 15th, 04, 2:37 PM
Any takers? smile.gif

SS_Dave
Apr 16th, 04, 10:57 AM
If you got all the rust off and there were NO holes in the metal, your golden.
Don't expect that rattle can primer to stop rust.
If you don't want to paint it now, use a sealer on it. It will look like primer, but it will keep the water from soaking into your bondo through the primer. Otherwise, try and match the paint now.

looks like you have it covered.
That seam will most likely crack if you fill it with filler. Whatever is in that seam should be semi flexable. I am not sure what you should put in there, there was asuggestion earlier in this thread. Go back and find it.
Otherwise, it looks like you are on the right track.

Dave

feedphillipnow
Apr 16th, 04, 4:34 PM
Thanks Dave, I needed someone to look at the work, I'll put some good quality sealer on, just needed some rattle primer for meantime. Better than nothin' till the weekend smile.gif I think sand out the filler in the area where the deck panel meets and use a different grade filler. Thanks! I'll let you guys know how it turns out!
graemlins/beers.gif