1969 Chevelle SS 396 (http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/bagger_mike/album?.dir=/3c8f&.src=ph&.tok=phJuvcCBkfJZS9dk)

Does this look like a true SS? Can it be determined what type of 396 engine it is from the pics? I have an opportunity to buy this car. Its listed at $6000, but I might be able to get it for around $5k. Is that hood cowl induction?Any advice would be appreciated.

Look like a true SS or is a true SS are 2 different things. Only way to be sure is to get the VIN# and decode it here.

The VIN won't tell if it's an SS or not unless the car's VIN is still on the original engine.

That car is kinda rough for that price, but that is just my opinion. Unless that engine block has the car's VIN stamped on it, I would consider it nothing more than a Malibu.

Ok, I will go check it out on tuesday and compare VIN #'s and engine block #'s. See if its a true SS. If it IS a true SS, would it be worth 5-6k?

Also check the colors on the tag. Two colors were ONLY on the SS car. But you know what, I have a Malibu. I don't see the big difference on why it's a big deal to have a true SS unless you are buying it for investment purposes.....which often turns out to be a losing proposition.

If you want a car that looks like an SS you add some extra trim and call it an SS. Otherwise they are the same exact car! A damn good looking muscle car.

In fact, I like my Malibu better, because I can modify it any way I want and don't have to hear from the original joes about how I destroyed an SS.

Without looking in person I'd say you were in for major repairs on this with floor pans, and maybe atrunk pan, and who knows what all braces and other rust problems you may find underneath it.

I wouldn't pay that much for this car myself. But that's just me.

Steve

Can you tell us about your restoration skills? I may be totally off base, the reason I am asking is because quite frankly your question is framed from the neophyte perspective. In no way is that a bad thing - I would just want to steer you away from a half assed idea that somehow you were going to resserect this car on the cheap.

More to the point about the car you are considering shelling out $5-6k to "start":
1) That car was sitting frame deep IN mud/dirt for an extended time before someone pumped up the tires on it and started working on it again. It needs to be completely disassembled and everything gone through.
2) Underneath all of the primer lurks some certain suprises. Actually, it is never really a suprise - just astonishing that a seller and buyer can look at it in that condition and think that it is pretty straight. Cars in this condition are the LAST thing a body shop wants to see come through its doors - they know from too many past customer freshly purchased restoration projects that a lot of bodywork hell lies ahead.
3) In addition to all the special tools and equipment, like a body rotisserie, it will be real easy to rack up ~ 1,000 hours in labor to do all that needs to be done right. Now that will either be your time (what is your time worth?), or somebody else's time (check out the going hourly labor rate in your area). You could get by with a lot less labor hours - but is your goal a 10 footer or a genuine head turner?

You may be one of those enthusiasts who relish a project like this, but I will suggest that you would be happier by spending more money and getting much more car to start off. Not always, but a fair number of times the reason why a private seller is selling a project car like is because they have learned the enormity of the undertaking. Someone's unwanted project car should be bought for the sole reason that it is blindingly cheap - because cars like this are always a mystery grab bag. Then you can take a chance that maybe you will be "lucky".

Thomas

Does have the ss hood,look and see if has both round front lower control arm bushings.But those can be bought and put on by anybody.Look and see if the steering arm at the rag joint is bolted or pressed on.Defintely big job,try and get way down below that.Can be fun trying to bring back,can gain alot of knowledge threw it.If your not in a hurry to have a carSome people take serveral years doing total restore down to the nut and bolts.Join a state or local chevelle club,can boweral alot of tools and knowledge/help from them.68&69 didn't get a cowl hood.Malibu got flat hoods,ss got the double raised scoops.The 69 hoods have to use 69 hinges.And 68 have to use 68.Can also see the amount of hood spring windings, the SS got more windings for heavier hood,belive its like 23,have to look at mine.Try and get it for less in case it gets to big and start with somthing more together.Can always part out startb over.Check frame the most without that all you have is parts.

Save your money and get a car in better shape. Just from the pics you are going to have a ton of work ahead of you. Be careful and don't talk yourself into a project you won't finish (I have this habit also). Your car is out, there just be patient. ;)

If the cowl tag has 2 paint codes, wouldn't that tell you its not an SS (SS's were only solid color right)?

Some tags have 2 paint codes for some reason. The ones I have seen have the 1 code listed twice, once for upper, once for lower.

Tom, If it has 2 different codes that should help right?

Spend $5000 more and get a running car that might need some minor refurbishing. Believe me, you will spend more than that restoring this car. All I see is rust, rust, rust!!! I bought a true SS 68 for $10,000.
Steve

Ok guys, thanks for the tips. I guess my enthusiasm for a true SS has blinded me a little. This does look like a huge job, and I don't know if I would be patient enough to get there. I'll keep looking for something a little easier. This would be my first Chevelle restoration. I plan on spending upwards of 2 years restoring a car, but I don't want to invest in a rust bucket. This forum rules. ;)

Try looking in hemmings or contact your local chevelle club see if have any leads.We have one in our club classifieds its a 67ss will have the 138 vin for 8K(nego) 92% restored.(arklatexchevelles.com)

Originally posted by ddolak:
This would be my first Chevelle restoration. I plan on spending upwards of 2 years restoring a car, but I don't want to invest in a rust bucket. This forum rules. ;) I got in late, sounds like the light bulb went on. 1000 hours/100 weeks(2 years)= 10 hours per week, if you work every week and all goes well. Spend $100 per week in parts, etc. you have 10K+5K buy cost into the car. You can buy a really nice restored driver for $15K, make $100 per week payments and drive it now for the 10 hours a week you would have been working on the rust bucket. And its done. Past history says you will get it apart, get overwhelmed and some one ends up getting it for dimes on the dollar. Or spend less and at least get a rolling restoration you can get experience on a little bit at a time and drive it. Good luck.

Thats a lot better then what you could find in the rust belt. Not for 6k though.

Chris.

Be patient, your car is out there. OrrieG has it right - why not get something that can be driven and enjoyed now - rather than waiting two years.

That car is not an extreme rust bucket - I have seen people do serious labor on far less worthy candidates. Every 30+ year old car is going to have issues, but the car would need to have something really special going for it to merit 1,000 or so labor hours plus many thousands of $.

Here is a suprising idea to help you get a better perspective on car values: instead of looking at derelict project cars, spend some time looking at super nice Chevelles SS's and clones for sale - even if there is no way you can afford them. Look for regular 396 cars, not the rare COPO 427's or LS6 454's. The reason is simple: to get you familiar with how a nice finished car looks, all the details and such. Now ask the sellers about the money they spent on restoration. Do the math backwards. Think about all the time, ask them how long was all the work from start to finish. The more you do this, the less valuable project cars will become to you.

Thomas

this was on Barrett jackson, good price, nice car.
they are out there just look in the right place. good luck.

1971 CHEVROLET CHEVELLE SS 454
LOT #193 - RESERVE

1995 WCCAL CCA
SOLD FOR $8,505


OPTIONS
COLOR - BROWN
CYLINDERS - 8
VIN - 136371L106146



REAL NICE COSMETICALLY RESTORED 454 SS CHEVELLE WITH POWER STEERING, POWER BRAKES, AND FACTORY AIR.