I am converting to b-body spindles right the moment, and am putting on the 1LE Camaro rotors. Has anyone ever cross-drilled their own rotors? It seems easy enough, and I have access to a drill press.
TIA!!!

I'm not sure I'd try it as a novice. Way too easy to put it out of balance. I'd leave it to factories that probably drill all the holes at one time on a jig.

UUUUUUGGGGHHHHHHHH!!!! I need an asprin.

I've done it before BUT I've got access to a Bridgeport and rotory table to assure the holes are located precisely.
I would never try this with a "drill press". :eek:
Plus, if the rotors are used, you're gonna need a few carbide drills. ;)

There are many issues with cross-drilled rotors. The idea is very good as it lets gases and heat, which get built up as you use the brakes to come to slow or come to a stop. The main issue with drilled rotors is the likelihood that they will develop small cracks around the holes. This is a very common complaint with drilled rotors. Now, with that said, you may be asking yourself why this is so and if it is, why do they install drilled rotors on high-end BMW’s and other luxury sports cars. The difference is that these rotors do not feature “drilled” holes, but are rather rotors with the holes “cast” into them. These rotors are VERY expensive and I know of none for the older Chevys (including rotors with fit the B-body spindles.) If you are interested in better venting your rotors, look to slotted rotors. These do not have the same issues as I’ve described above.

As for drilling your own, if this is what you decide you still want; new drilled rotors are available on ebay for ~ $80. For that price I would never spend the HOURS, time and expense to drill my own.

PS, drilled rotors provide absolutely no benefits at all besides the "bling-bling" factor.

thanks guys.. so its more of a PITA than it's worth basically.. I do have access to a CNC Bridgeport as well.( pops is a machinist of 25 years), but even so, think I will just bolt em on as is and go....Thanks!

Originally posted by dennis68:
PS, drilled rotors provide absolutely no benefits at all besides the "bling-bling" factor. That's what I thought. This cross-drilled and slotted garbage takes away from precious surface area needed for the brake pads. I would rather have the surface area than pretty slots and holes.

Then you have to consider what happens towards the end of the life of the pads. Traditional rotors usually get machined so the surface is fresh and true.

I dont have much expierence with drilled or slotted rotors but they cant be turned when the pads need to be replaced. Perhaps they dont need to be, but I dont think they can.

Chris.

Originally posted by ben70:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by dennis68:
PS, drilled rotors provide absolutely no benefits at all besides the "bling-bling" factor. That's what I thought. This cross-drilled and slotted garbage takes away from precious surface area needed for the brake pads. I would rather have the surface area than pretty slots and holes. </font>[/QUOTE]When you have a 13" Baer system, loss of surface area for drilled and slotted rotors is minimal. And yes, they're mainly for looks on a street car but what isn't as long as they function properly? Sure are a lot of very serious street cars, customs, etc out there with this 'bling-bling factor'. Unless you're going for pure functionality and no style, you can stop just as well with plain discs and probably stock wheels as well. But if you're spending $1500-$2500 on a set of nice custom wheels, why have a rusty, flat rotor and stock caliper messing up the view? Spend a couple dollars more and dress up that area with a pair or set of Baer Claws.