Say I wanted to use wheel ramps for supporting the front wheels while working underneath. How does one keep these ramps from sliding while trying to drive up them?
All thoughts welcomed. :confused:

It depends on the ramps and floor. I had a problem with mine on smooth concrete, but moved to the asphalt driveway and no more problem.

You could always jack the car up and sit it down on them.

On a smooth concrete floor it's tough.

Has anyone ever tried rubberizing the bottom of the ramps to keep them from sliding on the concrete. No clue if that would work just a thought.

I just use a jack and jack stands. You could use a long pole to brace them against a wall

I took a peice 3/4" plywood and cut it 2" wider then the the width of the ramps . I then had that width ? x 48" long. I cut two peices of 2x2 the width of the plywood and screwed them fast on the front edge.. Now the weight of the car/truck is on the playwood strip and then starts up the RAMP with the front 2x2 stoping the ramp from being pushing off the plywood. It also keeps the reamps from diging into the macadum when it's hot or if you must keep it in the UP position for a long time.
i have Steel ramps so I just drilled a hole i nthe plywood and hang them next to the ramps..
If I had the palstic-fiber-composite ramps.. I think I would just Screw them to the plywood.

I used old carpet with a rubber backing under the ramps...

I will take and sometimes lay a peice of 2x4 inch wood a foot or 2 long and lay it down so that its another ramp onto a ramp if you will.

Chris.

I use a piece of carpet runner protector that are made out of rubber. You can get at any Home Depot. The ones I use have a smooth side and ridges on the other. They work great!

Originally posted by gbt1976:
Has anyone ever tried rubberizing the bottom of the ramps to keep them from sliding on the concrete. No clue if that would work just a thought.My ramps have rubber on them and they still slide like a b**** on concrete. As soon as I moved to asphault, no more problem.

I've got the Composite Rhino ramps. They've got rubber pads on the bottom, and I've had no problems with them sliding to date. Now, the steel ones I used to have are a different story ... it's real unsettling to be half way up the ramp, only to have both of 'em launch like rockets ...

Originally posted by Wwalstrom:
I've got the Composite Rhino ramps. They've got rubber pads on the bottom, and I've had no problems with them sliding to date. Now, the steel ones I used to have are a different story ... it's real unsettling to be half way up the ramp, only to have both of 'em launch like rockets ... Mine are the composites with the rubber pads. Like I said they kept sliding while trying to get up on them. Now I was backing my Thing up onto them, so I don't know if the drivewheels had anything to do with it.

Wayne;

What keeps the ramp from nudging off the rear of the
plywood? I like the plywood idea. Thinking I'd run 2x2 around the perimeter of the ramp to help secure it.

Drill two 1/4" holes in floor. (For each ramp) Drop long bolts in when you want to use, butt the ramps up against the "pins" sticking up out of the floor. Remove when not in use. Worked for me (before lift) smile.gif

Mike.. The 2x2 is on the front edge. acts as a stop for the front of the ramp

X-------------------i
x i
x i
x i
x-------------------i

where X is the 2x2 . I measured mine and there 14" wide by 48" long.. The ramp is placed HIGH side inside the (X) 2x2 and the plywood extends 12" past the low edge of the ramp at the i end..

Originally posted by d1_bradley:
Drill two 1/4" holes in floor. (For each ramp) Drop long bolts in when you want to use, butt the ramps up against the "pins" sticking up out of the floor. Remove when not in use. Worked for me (before lift) smile.gif That's what I did too, just used 3/8" dia instead. Works great.

I like the idea of the bolts. Would a masonry bit work, or would a hammer drill be needed? Guess it depends on the drill.

Originally posted by mfinger1:
I like the idea of the bolts. Would a masonry bit work, or would a hammer drill be needed? Guess it depends on the drill. Depends on the concrete, how old and how many little stones/pebbles in it. Should be able to do it with a masonary bit. If it stops drilling because you hit a stone, pull the bit. Take a punch a drive it into the hole with a hammer to bust the stone. Then continue on your merry way. That's why hammer drills work better in concrete but 1/4 or 3/8 is not that big of a hole.

Concrete maybe 50 - 60 yrs ( could be newer slab?) smooth and poured well. Old but well built garage. Found an old oil bottle (glass) with screw on spout, nice shape, in there when I bought the house 14 yrs. ago.

Sears has a decent hammer drill for under 60 bucks, and it doubles as a regular 1/2" drill.

Originally posted by MedicTed:
Now I was backing my Thing up onto them...I was worried about this one for a minute until I saw your sig...

My ranps of choice are aluminum and came from a going out opf business sale at the local Ames store. They were the ramps the truck drivers used to put their trailer at the loading dock hight at the store....cost $10...$5 each. Big-wide-tall heavy suckers.


Tazz

Originally posted by Cecil:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by MedicTed:
Now I was backing my Thing up onto them...I was worried about this one for a minute until I saw your sig... </font>[/QUOTE]:D

Ok guys, I tend to think "outside the box" but this works awesome. I use a couple of flat straps with hooks on the end of them. I think mine are about 3" wide.
Hook them to the ramps and lay them down where you are going to drive up. Make sure they are long enough that your rear tires are on them before the front tires go up the ramp. The weight of the back tires hold the ramps in place while you drive up on them. Also works when you are backing back off so it doesn't spit the ramp out. I have used this method many times and its great because you can set it up anywhere and its totally portable!

Hey 70SSElky;

What kind of material are those straps made of??