I'm plumbing my fuel system with Aeroquip's Socketless hose. Pretty cool stuff... If you can get it together. :mad:

I left the fittings in the freezer, used a hair dryer on the lines, and lubed both with WD-40... and it's soooooo close, but it's not budging from here.

http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/Matt_Leuck/fitting.JPG


The lines are run inside the frame rail, so I cant put them in a vice, or take them somewhere. This is all with my hands.

So how do you do it?!


- Matt

Leave it that way?

Originally posted by DG:
Leave it that way? It is supposed to go all the way on so that the lip of the hose is underneath that collar.

Matt,
I have never used the socketless stuff, but have always had good luck with the regular fittings by really lubing them up good with Mobil 1 oil.

Matt, will these wrenches (http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4779&prmenbr=361) work? Or how bout taping the tools you have with black electrical tape, or taping up the bench vise, or even the fittings you are working on?

Originally posted by Daren71:
Matt, will these wrenches (http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4779&prmenbr=361) work? Or how bout taping the tools you have with black electrical tape, or taping up the bench vise, or even the fittings you are working on? The fittings look like this:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/images/bluhose.jpg

The hose slips over the barbed end then under the collar. It creates an interference fit good to approx 300psi (from what I've read). No wrenches or anything needed.

The thing is, I'm finding it impossible to get then seated all the way. I just cant push that hard.
I would try a vice, but the lines are run inside the frame rail. If I put the fittings on outside the car, there is absolutely no way I could run then in the frame after that.

My hands are killng me... and I'm at a loss for ideas.

:mad:

What about a dry silicone spray?

I've used it several times in situations like this and it has always helped alleviate the snag / friction in tight spots with rubber over plastic or metal.

WD has not worked well for me in all the instances the silicone spray worked.

Originally posted by Midnight Marauder:
What about a dry silicone spray?
Would Home Depot or Lowes have it?
I dont have any around the garage... that I know of.

KY Jelly should do the trick

you might want to contact the company that makes this stuff
I think they have a tool that does the connection
I could swear I saw that same setup on two guy's garage and they were using some sort of special tool

Originally posted by Matt Leuck:
</font><blockquote>quote:</font><hr />Originally posted by Midnight Marauder:
What about a dry silicone spray?
Would Home Depot or Lowes have it?
I dont have any around the garage... that I know of. </font>[/QUOTE]Yes. Any hardware or auto parts store should carry it. The one I have is in a white and light blue can. Its come in handy many times.

Also works well on windows that stick or squeek past the rubber on the top of the door when they're rolled up.

Originally posted by Dean:
KY Jelly should do the trick Dean, what else are you using that KY jelly for? Happy New Year to you! graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Originally posted by Dean:
KY Jelly should do the trick Would that be the regular kind or the "warming sensations" kind. :D graemlins/clonk.gif

There is a small hand style press for putting these on. We have one at work for barb fittings. One thing I always use is a sealer like the old style permatex brown gasket sealer. The sealer is the lube and you only have a short time to assemble. You will need to clamp the line now and push it in with a pry bar. email me if unsure
Dave

Originally posted by daveseitz:
There is a small hand style press for putting these on. We have one at work for barb fittings. One thing I always use is a sealer like the old style permatex brown gasket sealer. The sealer is the lube and you only have a short time to assemble. You will need to clamp the line now and push it in with a pry bar. email me if unsure
Dave Dave, where can I get that tool?

And you say now I need to clamp the line and push it with a pry bar... I'm confused as to how I can do this with how the line is in the car right now. Can you explain it a little more?

OK, I found this:

http://www.hosexpress.com/hose/socketless/FHKit.htm

http://www.hosexpress.com/hose/socketless/handheldtool.jpg
FT1268 SOCKETLESS fitting hand-held assembly toolIs that what you're talking about? If so, do you know how much they cost?

Close to what we have at work. Clamp the line about 1" from barb fitting and push fitting in. This clamp you showed in the pic holds the hose while pushing the barb in. Just buy it and sell to another member when done. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

dean said ky and its nowhere near midnight so he cant be juiced up yet .

Matt, I noticed in your pictures that you used teflon tape on the AN fittings. I just went through my complete fuel system on my street rod removing all teflon tape. Seems that the gas (at least here) eats it up. It turns gummy and tan and starts weeping. I took my system completely apart and used "antiseze" compound instead. It works great and NO leaks or funny smells later on. The stuff I used is AC brand p/n 5613695 and is made for 02 sensors, plugs in Aluminum heads, etc.

you shouldnt have to use any sealer of any kind on AN fittings. They don't have to be REAL tight either,to seal.

Originally posted by storm:
dean said ky and its nowhere near midnight so he cant be juiced up yet . Well I had an extra tube around that hadn't been used in 35 years and hated to see it go to waste so I took it out to the garage. :D


But seriously, that stuff comes in handy (in the garage) many times because it is about the best lubricant to use on hoses that are hard to get started on and doesn't leave any residue behind after it dries out.

It's also been proven not to deteriorate many forms of rubber. Unlike valsilene and some other petroleum based products.

At least, that what my father told me. ;)

Put the end of hose in some hot water for a few minutes and put Dawn dish soap on both the the fitting and the inside of hose.Push and twist it at the same time.Works for me.

Originally posted by Rapid Robert:
you shouldnt have to use any sealer of any kind on AN fittings. They don't have to be REAL tight either,to seal. The tape is only on the NPT fittings ;) (the in and out on the pump and filter).

That's exactly where mine went bad. I removed from all the pipe threads.

Originally posted by d1_bradley:
That's exactly where mine went bad. I removed from all the pipe threads. You really do need teflon tape or some sort of pipe dope on any pipe threads but if properly lubricated and tightened tight enough they might not leak.

Loctite PST. Hardens like threadlocker, acts as sealer and anti-gaul/anti-seize.

Better than "ordinary" teflon paste, MUCH better than teflon tape.

Try a flairing tool to hold the tubing?
I could never get a barbed fitting into a yellow coil airhose without kinking it.
One day I put the hose in a flairing tool, gave me just enough leverage to get the fitting into the hose without kinking it.
May work?
Hope this helps?
T.C.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by d1_bradley:
[QB] Matt, I noticed in your pictures that you used teflon tape on the AN fittings. I just went through my complete fuel system on my street rod removing all teflon tape.

I have been told by countless people that Teflon Tape is a lubricant for the threads, NOT a sealant. Whenever teflon tape is used in in situations with "gas", it will probably start weeping. A better product is "Pipe Sealant w/Teflon" I think Permatex makes it. It goes on like Anti-sieze compound, and does a great job when it comes to sealing threads.

AN fittings seal at the taper, not the threads. Thats why the teflon ends up acting like a lubricant. Pipe threads however do need tape or sealer. Theyre a tapered thread and the liquid seal is actually the threads, no seats.

Originally posted by chevymad:
AN fittings seal at the taper, not the threads. Thats why the teflon ends up acting like a lubricant. Pipe threads however do need tape or sealer. Theyre a tapered thread and the liquid seal is actually the threads, no seats. Depends on which end of the fitting we're talking about. smile.gif

Matt,
I'm running the same fittings as you. In fact I did the same thing and ran the hose through the frame. I got the hose on about the same distance but couldn't go any further. I hooked it up anyway and haven't had any leaks at all. Not to say this is the thing to do, but until I see any sort of leakage that will be the way it stays I guess

I knew those lines were a pain in the butt to work with!!


Tazz

I've used them in both the 3/8" fuel size and either 1/2" or 5/8" water size and you really have to lube up the inside of the hose and the fitting to get them to go on the first time...there's no pulling them back off and twisting them on was almost impossible. I did have one heater hose connection that simply refused to go past the 3rd and final barb. Since it was not the pressure line I chanced it and with the cap/seal, it never hinted at a leak.

We used to use a small quantity of liquid dish soap on the ID of the hose for lubrication. I don't think that WD40 is a very good lubricant. It is even possible that the WD40 made the ID of the rubber hose swell causing even more insertion problems.

I learn so much from this site. I know there is a lot of experience here and more than a few Chevelle owners that are not mechanics. Here's some helpful hints:

Back when I managed the parts dept. for a very large construction company, (can you say 1200 pieces of equipment?) it was my job to buy the shop supplies. When money was no object, here's what they wanted (they being 30 mechanics working two shifts)and/or what I know from experience:

Dish soap makes a great assembly lube for what you are doing. WD40 does not. WD40 was designed to break free sticky mechanisms. WD40 has some lubriction properties but there are other products better suited. WD40 is a solvent and will destroy rubber. I use it all the time, just not as a lubricant. The best use for WD40 is removing decals and killing Black Widow spiders like a blow-torch...

Todco makes a great spray-lube product in a red and white can. No cute name, just Todco lube. I get mine at a truckparts store. It's slippery and sticky. Try it.

Teflon tape is available that is "fuel rated". It is yellow, not white. The Loctite PST liquid teflon is easier to use. Get to know the various Loctite products. They make great stuff. Also, Rector Seal is a great product for pipe threads. We use it to seal the natural-gas riser assemblies that bring gas into your home.

We also stocked a lot of this stuff called "Mr.Rust-Go". It has graphite in it where WD40 has silicone. I spray it into outside things like the lock on my gate. Other favorites were the "CheeseWiz style" sealer and the Copper spray.

Lastly, my favorite after Anti-Seize compound is Dielectric Grease. Especially where a plug-in thingy is gonna be used.

Matt,

Here is an idea. Try heating the end of the line with a hair dryer. I have had to do this putting hyd lines together with teflon linings.

Wow, this got a ton of responses! Thanks for all the ideas guys. This is why I love this site.

Sadly, being a college student, I dont have all the time I wish I did to work on the car... this past week has been busy for me, and today is my 21st b-day, and I'm leaving to go skiing tomorrow, then it's right back to school :(

So I probably wont get to touch the car for a few weeks. But I guess that's the price I pay for wanting an education smile.gif

I'll be saving this page and all of the suggestions for when I actually get back to the car and have some time to try em.

Thanks!

- Matt