Is there any cheap fix to this problem? it is all rusted out along the wheel. Could i cut out 2 pieces of metal and tack weld em on there and then bondo it smooth. Or load the bondo on there and see if i can get it as close as it was many years ago. I can afford new Quarter panels. Im 14 and dont have much money to throw around.i have about 250 to spend. And ive got plenty of bondo.

hey,
i know that OPG(origial parts group) makes patch pannels for that part. I am also 14 restoring my 65 chevelle, and i have the same rust problem in the same place.

cool, do u know the website or Phonenumber of the company.?

OPG's number is 1-800-CHEVELLE. Their 300+ page catalog is free.

The number to OPG is 1 800 chevelle. But it looks like they dont make a wheel well patch like they do for the ealier years. You will have to buy a partial quarter panel and cut it down.. it runs from the door jam to the corner of the rear and around three inches above the first body line. Those panels will set you back 100 bucks apiece. As for mudding it up..its a waste of time and it wont last no years more like a few months if you are lucky.

so what do i do just tack weld it in??? and then mud it up to match?

if your going too replace a partial panel I would recommend butt-welding.. where you cut the rotted panel out, and cut the new panel too fit in it's place and weld the seam shut.. then you can mud it slightly instead of gobbing it on..

First things first, body filler is not a filler, its meant to be used to smooth out the minor imperfections in the metal to get the panel straight. Its not meant to be GOBBED on, no more then a 1/4 inch in thickness is what is recommanded, and that is pushing it. To much will cause the filler to lose its hold and fall out. Normie is totally right butt weld the entire seam shut. Lap welding is easier but will rust back in a few years so basically a waste of time. If you just tack weld it you are leaving open places that moisture will get into and start to rust the metal and eventually blow out the bondo.

If you are going to spend the money for panels and the time you will put into it, do it right and the first time. Dont mud it up and butt weld the entire seam shut. Good luck with your project...Eric

And to prevent warpage, don't try to weld it by starting at one end and working your way to the other. You weld it by welding small sections at a time and moving to a different spot. You weld a bead about an inch in length and then move to another spot on the panel. Weld another inch long bead and then move to another spot. Keep moving randomly back and forth from one area to another until you tie all the beads together. This keeps the warping to a minimum.
You'll be using a stitch weld technique using a wire feed Mig welder. Stitch welding is best described as a series of spot welds that that are tied together to form one continuous bead.

I can supply you with the panel if you like. We have a direct connection to Goodmark. Here's a link to our Goodmark sheetmetal site:http://www.proautoclassics.com (yes, that is my car doing the burnout)
We do sheetmetal in addition to Camaro parts. THe link to that site in in my sig.
We'll take good care of you.

------------------
Jason Babal
69 Chevelle SS
3100lbs. W/O driver

The Car Thehttp://www.chevelles.com/showroom/igotta71launch8.JPG (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/igotta71launch8.JPG)

The Man <A HREF="http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/igotta7110.jpg (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/igotta7110.jpg)" TARGET=_blank>http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/igotta7110.jpg[/URL]</A>

http://www.camaro1.com

[This message has been edited by IGOTTA71 (edited 10-24-2001).]

Wow someone else from Abbotsford!

Right now I'm doing the same thing to my 66.
If there is rust around the wheelarch you'll have to replace quarter.

I'm only 16 but I've been doing this for the past 2 years. My best advice is to spend a long time fitting the panel before you start welding it in. And when you do, don't concentrate the heat in one place for a long period of time. Don't rely on bondo for anything other than dents/low spots.

Also if you need any help email me, I'll be happy to help.



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Adam Ray
1966 Chevelle Malibu 355/200-4r
Resto in progress

yeah cool where from in abby?? By anny chance do u own a grey chevelle and live near moau school?

thats mouat school i meant

i was thinking about saving up about 500 dollars and find another chevelle with a good body/frame. That i think would be cheaper than buyin new panels.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by sevt_chevelle:
Normie is totally right butt weld the entire seam shut. Lap welding is easier but will rust back in a few years so basically a waste of time.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Okay, but butt welding is a LOT harder at least for me. Care to share any tips? I have a hard time cutting sheetmetal that accurately.

Mike

72chevellemalibu,

I'm on the other side of town(I go to Yale Sec.)

You could save up to get another shell, but most likely it will be rusted. Finding a good rust-free car in Southern B.C. is not easy. I looked for a car for 2 years and unless you want to pay 2000+ dollars for a bare rust-free shell you'll have to deal with the rust.

Uncle, butt welding isnt that tough if you know a few tricks and you must practice. First I use a wire dia of .023 in my mig welder. That small dia wire takes less heat to melt into the base metal meaning less warpage. The gap between your patch panel and original metal should be around the same dia of the wire in your mig welder. Dont butt them up right next to each other casue when you weld them they will bulge up. So leave that gap in there.

When putting in your panel dont just put the new panel up to the original panel and scribe a line and cut on that line. Cut down below that scribe line about 3/16 of an inch. And continue to fit the new panel til you get that gap of around .023. Cut the metal with a high speed cut off wheel, makes for the best line, but when cutting up too the scribe line I use a grinder with a flexible grinding disc not a hard one. Some times you can get spaces that are too wide to weld, so go to a hardware store and buy about a foot length of copper tube. Cut the tube into various sizes and flatting out with a hammer. Now place the copper behind the area to be welded and start to weld, the weld will not stick to the copper and will absorb heat.

Take your time weld short areas then stop. I weld about a 3/8 of an inch then stop and wait for the metal to cool then move to a differnt spot on the panel to weld. I dont like to blow air or put a damp rag on the weld to cool it down. Let the weld cool down on its own, more times then not if you blow air on it, it can shock the metal and work hardern it. Hope this helps...eric

sevt - Thanks for all of the information. I think that just about covers it.

Next time I fix a quarter panel I'm going to try graduating from lap welding it in to butt welding.

Mike

A few more things about butt welding to remember are, before striking a new arc cut off that little ball on the end of the wire. That little ball on the end takes more heat to melt causing more heat to be in your panel when you start welding..SO CUT IT OFF. Also your welder needs to be reset to each different type of weld. Lap welding takes differnet settigns then butt welding and plug welding is also differnet settings. So when getting ready to perform a butt weld get some scrap metal of the same gauge and practice welding to get the right settings.

Hope this helps out alittle...Eric