When I bought my '66 the power top was disconnected, you had to just manually lift it. There was evidence of fluid leaks but it was so long ago I couldn't tell if it was the lines, the cylinders or what. I know the cylinders go bad.

Anyway, I damaged one of the lines taking the whole system out. Eventually I assumed I'd be getting new motor, cylinders and lines, and rewiring it. I don't want to risk putting these oldy cylinders back in at some point and having them leak all over my newly built car, but is there a way to test the motor to see if it's running strong enough to lift the top? Any value in having someone rebuild it vs. buying a new one? I figured I'd have to wait to have a functional top, but if the motor's okay I could probably afford new cylinders and lines and at least it'd be working.

What do you think?
Ed.

Ed,

I imagine it could be tested but the tester would need to know what the output of the pump is supposed to be and you risk becoming testy trying to find that information. There will also the cost associated with testing it.

Make some calls and find out the cost difference between having yours rebuilt and a new one. You may even be able to by a rebuild kit.

Or, just install the thing with new cylinders and lines before you get the interior back in and test it - being certain to first bleed it according to the manual. If it's a no go you'll be able to disconnect everything you need to without having to take the interior apart.

Dan

Yeah, the lines get VERY brittle. On my '69, I had no evidence of a leak. It had been setting for about 12 years and of course when 're-doing' everything else, the lines broke. So, I changed the lines and purged them. All seemed OK, then the pass side cylinder started leaking. Seeing that "all" of the vendors say to replace both at the same time, I did. All seemed well for a while and now I think the motor is leaking. No, not think, I know its leaking. So now its time to rip it out and try to change the gaskets and seals or pop a new one in and be done with it. Sorry for the length of the story, but the bottom line is that I should have just plunked down the cash for everything at once and get on with the rest of the car. I can't count the times I've crawled in and out of the trunk bleeding the system. But on the bright side, I rode around Saturday night....85 degrees - top down- rumble of a big block.... life is good!

I think that's what I have to do, suck it up and get all new stuff. But I need a new top, too. It's okay if I get caught in a thunderstorm or something, but once the car is 'done' it'll look like crap in comparison.

If my car is done mid-summer, I'm thinking I'll put the top down, put the boot on, and cover it with the top down and only take it out when it's warm. Then maybe next year I can spring for the entire top and mechanism.

Thanks for the feedback. I was curious about whether the motor could actually leak when it fails. That helps my decision to not risk it.

Ed.

As far as testing it, the manual shows how to test it and lists the pressure. Don't know what the pressure is offhand, but I remember seeing the testing procedure in the manual ("service manual" I think).

I have heard about a convertible top-specific manual for a '66, does anyone know about this or where I can get one? I assume it covers all the systems -- hydraulic, electric, fabric.

Ed.

I test the actual motors all the time, just hook a car battery up to the power lead and case as the ground. Normally I find bad electric motors and not bad pumps, but I am sure you could plug the outputs except one and put on ahigh pressure guage. If it makes pressure I dont see why it wouldnt work.