Guys;

Plan on leaving my 'Velle in primer for a while due to economics. ( I'm sure some can relate).
Will be doing it by spray can. ( rather good with can) Can pickup good SW etch and sealer from local auto body supply.
I think I understand prep should be like:
Bondo work
Etch primer
filler primer
Primer sealer

Is there much difference between epoxy primer & primer sealer for sealing out weather?
ALSO!!
I'd like to temporarily lay on "colored Primer".
I've had my eye on VHT zimc chromate yellow as a temp "color coat".
Provide thoughts on this paint.

Dude,
I am not a professional painter but here is what I know first hand.

I'd forget the rattle can except for small areas. Too expensive and won't likely hold up.

Rent a small compressor, buy a cheap primer gun and get a quart of color-tinted Epoxy Primer (not sealer that's top coat primer) and a quart of hardener (1:1 is the mix for etch, 1:4 mix for the color-tinted epoxy primer)

I probably spent a couple hundred on Etch/Epoxy/Hardener. But I bought a gallon. You local paint jobber will set you up.

Unless you have bare metal, forget the etch. The Epoxy primer sets up really hard, and should last a long time. The etch also needs covered, because it is not meant to seal out moisture, and ins't very thick to protect against sratches.

Post more q. as you go.

I do think it will be cheaper this way than rattle can if you are doing the whole car.

Dude;
Isn't Springfield the town of the Simpson's!
just kidding.

Yea, have some grinding to do so I will be down to bare metal. Some quarter work and especially the hood. Some rusting under rather cracked 2nd paint ( mainly the enamel stripes)done in '76.
This is a work in progress as you go.
Have been a spray bomb kind of guy for thirty years. Have heard that the epoxy is a bear to sand or take down. Sealer should work fine for top prime coat. Thought of using the VHT zinc chromate yellow as a "color coat". With the sealer under it, there should be no problem.
Would this more or less be correct?

Isn't Springfield the town of the Simpson's!
No, Springfield, Ohio is not next to Capital City.


Yea, have some grinding to do so I will be down to bare metal. Some quarter work and especially the hood. Some rusting under rather cracked 2nd paint ( mainly the enamel stripes)done in '76.
Yeah, these bare metal areas will need etch + epoxy primer.

graemlins/waving.gif

One tip, I bought the same brand of Epoxy primer as the etching filler I used. This was a couple bucks more, but max protection was my goal, as I won't paint for a while either.

This is a work in progress as you go.
Have been a spray bomb kind of guy for thirty years.I have my own work in progress,
http://home.woh.rr.com/dgadams
I try to keep from having to do something over again later just because I took a short cut.


Have heard that the epoxy is a bear to sand or take down.Yes, my body guy told me to block it 4-6 hours after I shot the epoxy. So, that's what I did.

Sealer should work fine for top prime coat.No sealer till I buy paint, it doesn't provide protection anyway, and you'd have to scuff it off before painting anyway.

Thought of using the VHT zinc chromate yellow as a "color coat".Hmmm....I bought the "yellow death" metal etch, which is I think a zinc chromate etch (very nasty stuff), and had my Epoxy primer, which has chromate in it, color-tinited to shift it towards my paint color coat. It looks like lime green, even though I plan on a 70-OEM-style dark green..


My body guy wanted me to do it so that I would need less color coar, and minor scratches do not show as easily.

Looking back, now that I am not painting right away, I should have used either a mid-gray or black.

I think $400-500 in etch, filler, Epoxy primer, and hardner. But to get the price I got I had to buy in gallon amounts. If you etch/prime as you go stay with quarts.

I think that most primer except Epoxy absorbs moisture, just an FYI.

The above advice is correct. Rattle can primer will absorb and hold moisture. Not a good idea.
Rattlecans make for good mini-flamethrowers and that's about it.
;)

All of the above are correct but I dont believe you should leave any type of primer uncoated urethane or expoy. Yes urethane can absorb moisture, expoy doesnt but expoy is prone to UV rays. Meaning after spending time out in the elements it will fail. It will get a white chaulk look to it. Soon it will fully breakdown and let moisture get to the metal-RUST.

The best way to have that SUEDE look is to apply your color choice in single stage urethane. Its basically base coat clear coat all in one. What you do is add some flattner to that single stage then apply. The flattner dulls down the shine getting that suede look but with the protection of a recommended topcoat. Plus now you can have nay color you want not just the basic primer colors! Also just a side note PPG came out with a special clear coat for this type of application. It has roughly the same shine as dp90lf and protects like any other clear coat would. Its under the name Fixed n Flat...Eric

Hey Guys;

Thanks for the tips. Not taken her down to bare metal except as needed for now. Still has old faded second paint on most from mid-seventies repaint. This should protect metal. I still don't have access to spray gun, so I'll have to go it with rattle.
I know SW has seemingly good etch in rattle. This will all be taken down at some point for new paint. Economics, can ya relate?
What do you guys think of these spray rust converters. Like the Permatex? I've tested and have had bare metal areas only covered in this with NOT a bit of rust in over 7 years!!
Seems to work. I assume I'd then etch over this, then filler if needed.
Anyone know of either SW or PPG epoxy in rattle?
Photo Op (http://www.cardomain.com/id/mfinger1)

Can't you go to Macco and get something cheap for now? Probably only a slightly better alternative to leaving it in primer. smile.gif

Tim.

Rather it be in primer than in SH%t.
Less to take down later and better looking now.