I know I'm showing my ignorance, but what the heck, I need some help. I have been looking in the archives for 3 hours and the only thing I can find is what to do when the nut breaks loose. So here goes.
I bought a body bushing kit from Ground Up for a 70 (2) door coupe, and there are three different style bushings in the box. I have the car jacked up and the old bushings out, but the old ones are so bad I cannot tell which ones replace them. I have (8) of the bigger ones with the larger diameter upper and smaller diameter lower half. (2) that is the same height as the big ones but the upper half is the same diameter as the lower half. (2) that is about 1/8" thicker than the big ones and has no lower half or no hole thru the middle.
The other problem is that there is (6) bushings per side. So far I have only found (5) locations. (2) in the back behind the rear wheels.(1) in front of the rear wheels. (1) under the door. (1) behind the front wheel. This does not count the extra location for big blocks. I have the supplemental kit for that and am not counting it. Can anyone help me with the locations of the three different style bushings and where they go? graemlins/clonk.gif

Tons of thanks,
Billy

You should have 2 that are for the core support that holds the radiator. Then there the bushings that have no hole in them ; they set on top of the frame and have a round projection that goes into a hole in the frame. The body sets on these and holds them in place. Two of these go over the rear axle, and may be hard to see. The rest of the bushings have metal sleeves that go inside them; these are the ones that fit one part above the frame and one part below. These have metal sleeves in them and get the bolts into the body. Teh Service manual and the Assembly manuals both have diagrams showing the location and type for each bushing. I suspect that you will be able to figure it out by looking at which ones get bolts and which ones do not. Be careful when jacking up the body, as one can break the fender extensions where they go under the front bumper. So jack it up the minimum to get the job done. And for safety, put a wood block on top of the frame where you are working to prevent finger pinch if the jack should have a problem.

Hey thanks JW. I was just under the car and found the holes above the rear axle, this must be the one that gets the "upper only". I am guessing that the one that is the same diameter for the upper and lower must go to the radiator support.

I am being extra careful on jacking the body up. I am only doing one side at a time. I also have a "portapower" with very small jaws on an extension, so I can fit it into some pretty tight spaces. I did everything in the front first and then moved behind the rear wheels.

One odd thing is, the bushing in the very rear lacks about 3/4 of an inch going up to the floor. The old one was smushed down pretty flat. I suppose I will just put the bolt in and pull it down.

Thanks again for the help,
Billy

JWagner, I was thinking the extra set was for a convertible not the rad support, you're probably right. A hard top has six pair, a convert 7, not counting the rad support. BTW Billy, there is no difference between sb an bb, only between a convertible and hard top.
JWagner, you missed one set, under the doors, they sit in the frame like the ones over the rear axle and are not bolted in.

One more note, the set I got, from NPD, had each pair bagged and numbered along with a diagram of where each pair went. They stressed putting them in the proper location because of bolt length etc. You probably don't want to stop at this point and get a differnt set, but it may be a good idea.

Maybe someone else can help with the different sizes and where they go. No way I can tell from mine now that they're all in. Billy it's not ignorance, it would be ignorant to just throw them in and not ask for help.

Good luck

Thanks Finally. I was able to tell one of the bushings, and it was one of the ones under the door. It appeared to be on of the "non bolted" eventho there was a hole thru the frame and a nut for bolting. I think I will put one of the regular ones in that spot and move the "non bolted" one above the rear end. By the way, my car did not have the ones installed at all above the rear end. Actually there was only 5 per side. I've got a couple extra new ones so I'm going to put them all in. The extra's I have is the supplemental kit for big blocks. They were supposed to go in front of the one just behind the front tire. I have a hole in the frame but nothing for the bushing to go up against, if that makes any since.

thanks again guys,
Billy

Guess I was typing when you responded, sounds like you're makinh pogress.

Looks like we were both typing at the same time again. From what I read the extra set up front, were the frame rails curve into the engine compartment, are only used on a convertible. I could be wrong put thats what the instuctions I received said. On a convertible you need a liitle more to lock the body to the frame because you don't have a welded on roof that helps stiffen the body.

Sounds like you have it under control now.

yea. be it right or wrong, I got one side finished. Not counting the radiater support. All I've got to say is it's got more bushings in it than it had origionally. The best I could tell, there were never any above the rear end. The only problem I had was one of the ones under the door never would line up where I could get the bolt started, so I left it out. After torquing the others down to 60 lbs it pretty well smushed em. I don't think it's going anywhere. Thanks for all your help guys.

Billy

Oops! Read my previous post, ones under door are like the ones over the axle, single piece, sits on top of frame and no bolt through it.

Well, the problem with that is the kit only has 1 single piece per side. I just went ahead and used a two piece under the door as there was a cage nut. I figured they intended for a bolted bushing to be in those locations.

I also looked in my assembly manuel. Boy is that confusing. I don't know about you guys but mine is not very legible or understandable. The page is cluttered with symbols and footnotes. It is hard to determine what is what. From the best I can tell on sheet 1B-1 for model 13000 dated 3/17/70 and supersedes the same sheet dated 3/13/70, I should actually only have bushings in locations 2,3,4,6 and 7. Location 1 is for convertables, and location 5 (the one over the axle) is shown to be for station wagons and p/u only. I still cannot tell which bushing actually goes where.

Do you think I will have any problems by having too many bushings and/or bushings in the wrong locations? Maybe someone has a better assembly manual than I have??

Thanks,
Billy

First, as far as the assembly manual, what you see is what you get. None of them are real clear. Made from photo copies of a 34 year manual.
As far as the bushings over the axle, I see what the manual says but mine came with a set for there and my car had a set for there. JWagner mentioned those as well.
The ones under the doors, manual says bolted in on convertible only, all others is just the top piece, no bolt.

Now this one you're gonna owe me for buddy, I looked under my car. One all the way to the back is smallest. One in front and behind rear wheels are the same according to assembly manual. One all the way in front is different. I'm sure its bigger than the one in the back. So the 2 smallest ones, all the way to the back. 4 the same size, in front and behind the rear wheels. Last 2 in the front. The ones under the doors should be same as ones over axle. Hope that helps, best I can do, without taking mine out and measuring. Don't think I'm up for that.

Does the gap between the quater pannel and door look coorect or did it widen with the new mounts?

Originally posted by Low Rag 67:
Does the gap between the quater pannel and door look coorect or did it widen with the new mounts? Low rag 67 has a good point, those mounts on a hardtop prevent the body from sagging, bolt them down tight and you can distort the body. Which got me thinking even more.
The frame flexes and twists, nothing you can do about that.
A hartop body is stiff, floorpan and roof, if it twists something is going to break.
A convert is not stiff, only has a floor pan to hold it together. That's why more mounting points.
Remove the bolts under the doors. If you don't when the frame flexes the body will flex and it's not supposed to. Broken windshield, rear window, seams, welds, etc. Just my opinion, but that's how they were assembled in the first place. In some cases more is not better.
Perhaps an expert in this area can add some after the weekend is over.

Low rag67- I haven't noticed a difference on the side that is done. I will know in a little while after I finish the other side.

Finally- That is a good point about the body flexing. I called Ground Up today and spoke with a tech support guy. He told me that the complete kit has bushings for location 2,3,4,6 & 7 and the radiator core support (they look different from any of the rest). You will not get location 1 unless you order for a convertable or location 5 unless you order for a wagon or P/U. He said that 2,4,6,& 7 are all two piece bolted. Location 3 is the puck. I told him that I installed the puck in 5 und used a upper from a two piece in 3, but did not bolt it down. He told me that it should be fine. So I guess I will try it that way. Essentially I think that is the same as what you have except that 4 deffinatly gets bolted down. Actually my assembly manual shows both of the ones under the door (3 & 4)as bolted.

Your right, I do owe you one for crawling under the car. Many thanks for your help. This has turned out to be one of those things that I wish I had hired someone else to do. Or at least someone that knew something about body bushings. I have managed once again to turn a 4 hr project into 3 days.

I will update again after I finish the other side tonight or tommorrow.

Thanks,
Billy

Glad it worked out. Not looking at manual so not sure about 234567, just know you should have 8 bolts holding the body to the frame. Sounds like you got it right. Hey, it ALWAYS takes longer than you think. You don't owe me, glad I could help.