My car was painted in 1997 and has had some pock marks on both sides where the new quarters were joined with the roof. I bought the car after it was painted thinking I could wet sand the imperfections out. Well to make a long story short that plan didn't work out graemlins/sad.gif .

This week I dropped the car off to get this and other problems fixed and the whole car re-cleared. I got a call two days later saying I needed to come in and look at the car. What they found was that that the quarters were sealed to the roof with a product called Long and Strong. There was a big valley where the sheetmetal meets that had so much of this Long and Strong in it that there were air pockets. The fix that is proposed is to pull the metal back up and then put a thin coat of bondo on to smooth it out. I would like some thoughts on how this fix sounds. They are giving me a great price to do this extra work. I think they feel sorry for me and are charging a wholesale price of $300.00 to fix both sides.

MOST A-Body cars were like that straight from the factory, although your "valley" might be slightly deeper, because of the new quaters? My 71 is like that, and my friends 68 Cutlass S. My auto-body teacher tried to get me to fix my "valley" once upon a time, and I wouldn't do it. My thoughts on that were that it would take a VERY long time to get it perfect, becuase it was never perfect to begin with. I will probably attempt it now that my car will be parked for quite sometime. I would do it though, you've got nothing to loose. As I once read in one of the great MARTINSR's posts "under the magic primer its all metal" or something to that extent.

Reguardless of filler type keep the thickness to a maximum of 1/8 inch and you should be fine. Long and strong is typically used for fiberglass repairs in my opinion. The best products are Evercoats Everglass, Marson's Marglass and UMC Duraglass. Don't use Allmetal of Allumafill since they are not a moisture barrier and have no strength. Finish up any of the polyester work with a polyester glaze such as Evercoats' Metal glaze. Final sanding of the filler should be done with 180grit minimum or 220, 320, 400 would be the best. The finer the final sand before primer application the better and less likely the repairs will show at a later date. Performance Auto Body Work Product (http://http://community.webshots.com/scripts/slides.fcgi?albumID=75131243&security=yiDEye&play=0&time=5)