I've been wanting to own a 70 Chevelle as long as I can remember. Well I just ran across a fixer upper. I think it looks like it would be a good project. Its a 1970 Malibu with a 350 and a turbo350, but the car was originally a 4spd. It has a plate on the floor, the clutch is still there, and clutch linkage hooks up still on the block and the frame. The passanger door is not original, but the original door is in the back seat with dent. The interior is a little rough but the body doesn't seem bad. The little corner dealer is asking 2900 for it. Anything I should look out for and what is a good price for this car?

http://precision-offroad.com/70malibu.jpg

i paid 1900 for mine and yours seems to be in alot better shape, mine had hail damage all over, front fenders were rusted out, rear quarters were junk. Looks like you got a good starting point there, i wouldnt be ashamed to drive that car!!! things to look for, look at the rear quarters up close, look for rust, check for bondo, look at the inner wheel wells on the rear. take a good look at the front fenders, inner structure. Check the truck out real good, they are notorious for rusting out, the rear panel right under the rear window is known for rusting too. get under the car and check the floor pans too.
LIke i said looks like a nice driver, and a good starting point

Offer him $2k smile.gif . It can't hurt to try. looks like a good start if it runs and drives okay. A running driving Bu is probably worth $2500 at least. The Fenton style wheels on that car would look really good polished up. Take a fridge magnet with you and run it over the lips of the rear wheel wells and all along the lower edge of the body too. If it has spot where it doesn't stick it has too much body filler in it.
As for value? They don't make these cars anyomore and the prices are still increasing.
Of course this is only my opinion and others may differ.

I'd go about 2 grand for that car, if its as solid as it looks.

Is that gold original paint ?
Thats a plus, because it would make problems harder to hide.

Take an old jacket, or a big chunk of card board, and look under the car, for rust, in the frame, and floor boards.

If its solid, maybe a few hundred more.
The Wheels would look really cool polished up.
Are all 4 there ?

You mentioned that it was originally a stick, what does it have for a shifter now ?

The thing about a stick is, they are more work, and more expensive, but they are also a lot more fun.

Good Luck. graemlins/thumbsup.gif
That could be a really neat car.

If it were near me I'd take it.

What are your plans for the car? Are you going to make a show car out of it, cruiser/driver, just a beater, drive it "as is"? How much of the work can/will you do yourself? Are you more excited about the restoration process, or actually driving the car?

If you want to restore it, and you plan to hire out any significant portion of the restoration to professionals, it WILL get expensive in a hurry. And it WILL take a lot longer to complete than you think.

Unless you really get off on doing these kind or projects, my advice is to buy the best possible, "already done" car you can afford. Let The Other Guy absorb the cost of restoration. I assure you, The Other Guy is almost always losing money.

Just my $.02

Signed,
The Other Guy

P.S. If you are determined to buy this car, rust is the #1 thing to look at (as others have described). Beyond that, making sure the car is as complete as possible. Do a compression test on the motor to see if it's good.

Around here, definitely a good price on the car if it runs & drives decent.

As others have said, Bring the $2900, but offer $2k and work your way up from there.

I bought a 69 elky in similar body condition back 1999 for $1500, but it had a known bad motor... If that car runs and drives that is a very fair price for this area.

Also- Repeating what the other guys have said- Crawl underneath and check out the condition of hte floor boards & frame, and make sure it doesn't have huge rust holes. A little rust can be expected, but anything worse than surface rust, run away!

also, crawl up in the trunk and look at the underside of the package tray and the bottom corners of the rear window. But even if there are a few issues there, provided you have some ability in this area, the car looks reasonable for that price.

I agree 100% with Jeff, Thad and Ben, I'd start at $2000. If the guy locks up, walk! But if he is reasonable, negotiate. Trust me (depending on just how far you really want to go on the car), you can turn around twice, and you will put another $10K into it-------------------------and it still won't be finished!!!!
I'd be willing to bet it can be bought for less than $2400.