I have a little bit of welding to do on my quarters but am on a BUDGET. Don't have access to a MIG, so I'll either have to rent or buy. And the only rental I could find is flux. Anyway...don't have enough to buy complete gas setup, so i was wondering whether I would be totally disappointed with the flux core welds. I'm only welding in two small patches...about 5x5 each.

Figured I could but a gas ready unit and use it as flux for this job and then get on the bottle before I start my next project (lots of patch panels!)

From reading other posts, it looks like it may be a little "dirtier" weld and a little more challenging to do, but for what I need to do in the short term, it seems like I could get by without having a total mess.

Thoughts???

Yes you can weld patches with flux core. I welded my entire car together with flux core. You will get a dirtier weld but you were going to grind it anyway werent you? Just make sure you get good penetration.
Ron

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70 Chevelle SS396 (427)M21 Before (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/70before.jpg) / After (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/70later.jpg)
66 Nova SS 327 M20 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/toocool66.jpg)
95 Z28 Convertible T56
Aces 3081, TC #54 Gold

Well I see your in NC. You can came down here to Charleston and I can fire up my mig and get those panels put on for you. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif I did a couple small patch panels w/ flux core (borrowed a friends) I didnt care for it. It was a more difficult than the mig setup I have now.

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Deon Knecht
72 Malibu 350 that has been bored out to 4.251 on a 4" stroke.

<A HREF="http://home.sc.rr.com/deon" TARGET=_blank>
My Website Last updated on 10/28/2002 </A>

I use the my 300 dollar lincoln weldpack 100
quite a bit and love it. Yes it makes alot more slag but once its ground off it looks fine. I used it to weld patch panels on my lower front fenders on the malibu and several panels including new qtrs on my blazer. I was told by a few people before I bought it that they don't work, but i figured I would try it and I could always add the gas kit later, Well I have not needed it yet(all I ever weld is steel)

Hey man I got the weld pac too i also recently got a gas kit for it welds like a dream less time grinding and just better overall performance.

I've had a weld pack since they first came out with them! I was doing a job at National Welders installing a cylinder filling station and related equipment. They brought one out to try on some of the supports we were fabbing up. I laughed at it at first but I used that thing 2 days straight and it never showed any signs of overheating or instability. Next payday I bought one for myself!

But yes, MIG welding is better but an experienced welder or even a novice who takes the time to practice can do a decent job with the flux core. Set the voltage/wirespeed on a practice piece the same size and configuration you will be welding. Make sure the metal is ground or sanded(to bright metal)and you should be good to go.

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ACES member# 5093
Elcaminos are special!
I'd rather walk around with a Chevrolet hubcap in my hand than drive a Ford

Ole Paint (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/olepaint1)

[This message has been edited by Big James 4XL (edited 11-14-2002).]

Thanks for the info guys. I think that's what I'll do to get me over the hump with the 'Velle. But with all of the work I have ahead of me on my '65 pickup...well...I'll make sure I scrounge the cash for the gas setup before I do it!

I've done minimal stick and gas welding and never developed the skills. Borrowed a friend's MiG once...too bad he moved away...and all I can say is ssswwweeeetttt! I did a quick practice run, had one burn-through, but then I felt like I'd been welding with it for years. Piece of cake. Just wanted to calibrate myself on what to expect if I step down to flux core.

Hey, 72SS454Chevelle, if I bring the car down to Charleston, maybe you could lay a coat of paint on it while I'm there? :)

BTW, I'll be back here with lots of paint questions eventually (sometime this decade I hope!)

Thanks again!

I really like my Lincoln Weld-Pak 100. I haven't bought the gas kit for it yet, because the flux (I use .030) seems to be working fine. I weld alot outdoors, and I've heard the wind will blow the gas shield away from the arc easily. And yes, it can make a dirty looking weld before you grind it. Mine cost me $519 Canadian 2 years back, and the gas kit is $149.99. I'm sure if I got some rave reviews from someone who has the gas kit, it may convince me to spend the money on another toy..umm...tool.

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Don
<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>'69 Chevelle 2dr Sedan project in progress.
<LI>70% done...feels like 70% left to do
[/list]

Well I bit the bullet and bought a Campbell Hausfeld unit It was inexpensive enough that I can also buy a cylinder and get on the gas. Guess I'll soon find out how big a mistake it was to cut corners on the welder purchase. But I think it'll be fine for my occassional use.

Where's the best place to buy a 20# cylinder? Harbor Freight has them for $70...is that as good as it gets pricewise??? Do they have pretty quick shipping? Want to get it by the end of the week.

check out www.usaweld.com (http://www.usaweld.com)
check out the mig 120 and mig 140 both come setup fpr gas the 120 is just a little more than the weld pack 100 about $400 i have one of there tig welders its a good product and better yet the service and tech support are awesome you actually get to talk to a person

Santa time is coming up guys...I use a Weld-Pak 100, and last year was when I got it. Dad gave me the welder, the wife got the gas kit, and the in-laws got the cart for me. It was a LOT better than dress pants and sweaters that I'd never wear!

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"Atomic Batteries to Power...Turbines to Speed"

(The Minnesota John D)

'64 El Camino
383 - TH-350 - 12bolt - 4wh pwr discs
Bedded down for the Winter.

I too love my weld pac 100. The gas conversion is a night and day difference, especially if you are working with thin metal. With the flux, alot more heat is generated and you will have a higher likelyhood of warping panels. You will be much happier that you have the gas, and you can always use your gas stuff on trade in towards a bigger setup. Arn't the weld pacs versatile!

Brandon

My take on MIGs is this I use Miller 135s at work. They are ALWAYS giving me trouble, birds nests in the wire at the drive wheels, tip messing up the contact, gas problems, etc. We have gone through a couple of them of them at work having three in the body shop and three in the maintainence shop at all times.

I know it has something to do with there are seven guys (some of which don't give a darn) using them. But I will tell you, I have a "real" MIG welder at home. It is a Century Welder that was sold through Snap On. Most have not heard of Century but they have made welders,Battery chargers and similar tools for years. I bought it because it was Snap On and they had a payment schedule (what can I say). But I can tell you, it has lived up to the name Snap On. I have had it for 20 years. It was used in my body shop (by responsible people)for 13 years without a problem. I replaced the gun once and that was it. It has been in my brothers shop where he uses it occasionally for the last 7 years. It is a 220 so that makes a difference, but it at 20 years welds a thousand times better than a brand new Miller 135! If at all possible get a high quality 220 welder if you want to buy a MIG. Or at the very least buy the best 110 you can. I can't recommend which, I don't know. I am just relating what I have experianced. I do know that there is a BIG difference between these two. And one shop I worked at we had an Airco three phase MIG. That sucker would dang near weld through grease! I remember years ago when I used my first MIG (around 1979) it was a MillerMatic and it must have been a three phase because it would make a clean weld through junk too. I remember welding through a 1/4 inch of lead to put a bead on the metal under it. Just messing around, there would be no reason to do this. But the 110 ac converter in your welder still doesn't convert the electrical wave down to a nice even level. The 220 has the two waves so it makes a nicer "middle" and evens out the wave better. The three phase has three waves so naturally it gives even a better middle. I am no electrial engineer and am talking out my butt here but that is what I understand.


On Flux core, I have never used it. But in my ICAR classes and literature it states that flux should not be used with metal thinner than 18 gauge and it's only real use is where there is wind that would blow away the gas.


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1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"

Brandon...
Well, that's all the convincing I need...I'm gonna buy the gas kit Monday, I've got some trunk pans to finish, and the gas sounds like it will help out. Which size wire is your preference?

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Don<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>1969 Chevelle 2dr. project in progress.
<LI>70% done...feels like 70% left to do
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For body work I prefer the .025, but when it isn't loaded I can get away with the .03 Be sure to get some thin (around 18-22 guage) scrap to practice on. Practice makes perfect, and just toying around with it really helps you get the hang of it. Reading Martin Sr's Mig welding guide is also a good start, he is an awesome wealth of knowledge. You'll be surprised at how much you find yourself welding once you get the hang of it.

Best of luck, and let us know how it goes,
Brandon

I must have jinxed myself...25 minutes after I got to work this morn, the wife calls says there's something wrong with the car...turns out its a CV shaft to the tune of $125.

There goes the gas kit money. Oh well, X-mas is on its way. (and the x-mas bonus cheque)

Thanks for your help, I'll have to wait a few weeks.

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Don<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>1969 Chevelle 2dr. project in progress.
<LI>70% done...feels like 70% left to do
[/list]