Hi, I'm about to take out my front winsheild and fix some small rust holes. Just wondering if these steps sound good: 1)grind off all rust to bare metal w/ 3M stripper, 2)Spray some kind of rust dissolver(Permatex)and wash off, 3)apply some JB Weld around the holes, 4)Apply filler, 5)then spray paint(Krylon) a primer and a top coat. What do you guys think, am I on the right track? Also, for the primer and top coat should i get the rust tough paints or maybe go w/ some of that Car primer they sell then just a regular coat of Black? Thanks a bunch, Eric

IMO if you attempt to fix it that way, most likely have paint adhesion problems with all that garbage sprayed and stuck on there, and...the rust will come back.
Here is how i would go about it, grind the rust back to solid metal and weld a patch in. After grinding smooth spray with etch prime followed by 2k. Lets face it rust repair sucks, why do it twice?

Grind area to bare metal, then properly apply POR-15, after POR-15 is throughly dry then you could use Duraglass to fill in the area of repair and after sanding ,youll have to use a good filler on top of that as a skim coat. Duraglass is 100 % waterproof. That area that you repair with Duraglass will still be around when youre long gone . I did around my front and rear glass on my El Camino this way and it sure turned out nice and the Duraglass is tough and will never fall out or rust. And the POR-15 is GREAT STUFF also when properly applied. Theres nothing like new metal, but in an area like this (around windshield) if you dont have a welder or you do and cant find someone to stand-by inside the car with a spray bottle of water watching for FIRES,then this is the way to go. I have a welder and could have gotten a helper but I still chose this method because of the location of rust out and ease of repairing,and strength and durability of the finished repaired area. Now if I had a large area to repair on say a fender or quarter panel I would chose to weld in a new quarter or patch panel, rather than add alot of extra weight to a large area. Duraglass is also a good product to use after hanging a new quarter or patch panel because you still have to fill the over-lap or butt area in and again, its waterproff (NO RUST) . Hope this helps a little. Mark

That duraglass stuff sounds good since I don't have a welder. Where could I find this stuff? Also, What's a good filler to you? thanks, Eric

I did a search on fillers and found that Evercoat is one of the best. Also somebody was saying how the NAPA TEC filler is the same as the RAGE series of Evercoat. Is this true?

sorry to steal the post for a second but can you put duraglass over POR?

Hey again, found everything I needed,the evercoat and the duraglas. Now I'm just wondering if I need to put on a glaze coat over the evercoat RAGE filler. Can someone help me out, thanks. Eric

You should lightly scuff up the surface of the POR-15 first,the apply your Duraglass. I did this and no problems yet. I used a lightweight good body filler over the sanded Duraglass called Micro-light. Then sanded smooth,primed and painted. Any good filler should be sufficient. No, I dont like using glazes.Had problems in the past with them lifting or bleeding through. Bare metal,POR-15,Scuff POR-15 lightly,primer several coats,paint. Mark

If you use glaze I would use the epoxy type not the lacquer.

Alright, thanks for all the help, that'll save me some $, because I check at a local body shop and they wanted like at least $1000 for some small rust holes, thanks again. Eric

Also, one more thing, I was just wondering if it made a difference on to go w/ POR-15's gloss,semi,or flat paint? thanks again

Depending on what and where youre painting,If you want it to stay close to original look or if you chose to paint it different.The choise is yours.It has to suit you.So consider that before you make up your mind.

Oh ok, I thought the por-15 wasn't even going to show after the fillers though, I thought if I got the wrong finish of paint, then the filler wouldn't stick or something, nevermind. Thanks