What parts do I need to install and seal the rear window on my 70 chevelle. Can I go to PepBoys or Autozone and get the seal? Do I have to order a rubber seal?

I found this at: http://www.true-connections.com/cat/page18.htm#Glass%20Run%20Channel

Front and Rear Window Seal

WS-6472
64-72
5/16 Diameter Butyl Tape
$8.95

Is that the right stuff to seal the rear window? Can I get that stuff at a local auto parts?

Get 3M 5/16" butyl tape. Some stores sell the 3/8" version around here but 3/8" is too thick with stock thickness glass to be able to clip the trim in place well. 3/8" works well on thinner than stock new windshields though. BTW the lowest price I've found on new rear windows for 68-72 2 dr hdtp is Pilkington Classics in Columbus, OH, (800) 848-1351. $227 plus $80 truck freight for an unmarked one (tinted only). For $50 more they'll add the LOF and date code markings. I found some for less locally made by a large glass mfr but they are all made wrong and won't come close to fitting. Email me for details. All mfrs use the same part number per N.A.G.S. standards, DBO3992GTN, so don't let that mislead you like it did me.

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von '69 300 Dlx SS TC #15 ACES #1575 HSCA #5
Von's '69 SS (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/von/vons69ss.jpg)

[This message has been edited by von (edited 01-19-2003).]

[This message has been edited by von (edited 01-19-2003).]

Bud,

Before you get to R&R, lemme guess, rear window leaks real bad and you have some metal rust in the floor or in your trunk? And you say to your self, "well, I'll just reseal the window.

I also had the "leaky rear" glass in my 70 Chevelle. In fact, seems like all the 69-72 A-bodies leak in the corners of the glass, just a poor design from GM.

Anyway, once you pull that glass you're going to have to access the rust damage that has been unseen for 30 years.

Mine consisted of 3-5 pin-holes in each corner, no bigger than 1/16 drill bit. I decide not to cut & weld, after seeing huge holes in floor pans redone with POR-15 and their 2 part epoxy.

So, I cleaned the gutter, used a wire wheel to remove as much loose crap and surface rust as I could (not much anyway), I used the 2 part epoxy from Restomotive Labs (POR-15 people) to fill the pin-holes, then covered with POR-15. I also painted the gutters all the way around with POR-15 to be safe.

Now before you lay your butyl or what ever ask a glass shop for a "primer" adhesive. It will allow the window adhesive to stick to POR-15 (after you "scuff" it up).


This was a $30 prep-to-repair job. 2 Years and no leaks, in Ohio!


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Springfield, Ohio

<UL TYPE=SQUARE>
<LI>name: D.G. & my 70 Malibu
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[This message has been edited by DG (edited 01-19-2003).]