Just want to get some opinions on what will be the easiest way to tackle stubborn body mount bolts. I'm having a roll bar installed in a few weeks and I want to replace the body mount bushings beforehand. I started tonight and of course the first bolt I tried to remove snapped. So, I'm thinking of cutting some access holes in the floor-pan and trunk to gain access to the top of the threads and soak them with some rust penetrator for a couple of days. I'm thinking this may keep me from having to drill out a BUNCH of broken bolts and possibly messing up the cage nut threads.

So, what would you do, go through the trouble of cutting holes in the floor or just spend your time under the car drilling? Think the penetrant would even work on 35 years worth of rust and corrosion?

Thanks for any advice.

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MY 67 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/jwilson671.jpg)

67@Track (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/jwilson672.jpg)
355 10:1 TH-350
Best 60'-1.65
Best 1/8th-7.51
Best mph-91.6

i used a lift and cut the heads of the bolts off with a torch. then i lowered the car and raised just the body after everything was clear. rolled the chassis out, then welded the cage nuts to the body in the aproximate area they were in. then i welded a nut onto the rest of the bolt and with the heat generated the bolt came out no problem. when i went back together i used antiseize on the threads of the bolt. worked great and no holes in the inside trunk or in the interior of the car, wanted to keep it unmolested. since it's so hard to find a good rust free car in iowa! good luck and take your time it's worth it.

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fast as fast can be!!!

You might try drilling a small hole in the floor, just above the threads, and soak them with a rust penetrant. WD-40 won't work. Need something more serious like rust eater. If the bolts are severly rusted, they will break the nuts loose. If they are borderline the penetrant will save a few.

You can carefully cut the floor, just above the cage nuts, weld the nuts to the body. This will keep them from breaking loose. You can then heat the nuts and remove the bolts and weld the floor back up.

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Ed C.
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70SS 396/350 4speed
70 LS6 4speed under resto.
00 C5 6speed

If you want to use a penetrant try getting some Kano Kroil the stuff works great.
I don't know if you can find at the local store. but you can order it www.kanolabs.com (http://www.kanolabs.com)
it comes in a spray can or bulk. I have used it for years at my job as an airline mechanic and also at home.

I second the Kroil !! Best stuff on the planet for freeing-up rusted nuts and bolts. Iv'e removed some of the nastiest looking bolts after a soak with kroil. Mike, M22

PB Blaster gets my vote.

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Leo Paugh
Maryland Chevelle Club #017
A.C.E.S.#3731
progress has little to do with speed, but lots to do with direction.
Maryland Chevelle Club (http://www.chevelles.net/mcc/mcc.htm)

I cut 2'Dia holes in the floor pans and trunk area. I heated the bolt tops cherry red and immediatly doused them with cold water. They all came out no problem except for the first one before I learned the procedure.
The back ones were accessed through 2" holes drilled through the sheet metal after the bumper was removed. This is a 69 Malibu Conv.
Hope this helps.
John

i second the PB blaster.......full resto on the chevelle and now im doin a camaro....the stuff is a mirical worker

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65 chevelle malibu 402 big block- im the middle of restoration.

I run a Jr. Dragster in NHRA competion.

has any one considered removing the ridiculous cage nuts all together. I did I cut 2X2 square holes in the floor right over the bolts. removed the cage nuts and, now i am installing small sections of square tube stock. cut and grind the sections flush with the floor weld around the top and some spots around the inside where the nut rests against the braces. Now when you want to remove the body you dont have to worry about wheather the nuts are going to get stuck and slip by the cages. granted you have to lift the rug slightly to get at both sides.

Guys, thanks for the ideas. I think I'll start with drilling some access holes and soaking the bolts repeatedly for a couple days then try to remove them.

I also vote for PB blaster. It smells like crap but cuts the crud.

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It's called the Holeshot Boogie. You pull a holeshot and boogie on down the track.

Drive it like you stole it everytime, for tomorrow may never come.

And on the 7th day god said let there be an engine who's legendary brute force will never be matched, and loe the Chevrolet big block was born.

It's amazing, after all this time she still runs.

AIM Screen Name = YenkoChevelle69. Gimme a yell anytime.

Another vote for PB Blaster. Its available at most auto parts stores. I get mine at AutoZone. Spray it on, let it sit for 5 minutes etc. Truly the best stuff I have used.

I never would have believed it due to the "as seen on TV" label. http://www.chevelles.com/forum/biggrin.gif

Well, I got the PB blaster this weekend and let it soak for a day then resprayed before trying to loosen the bolts. Seems to have helped somewhat but not much. I've got 2 broken bolts (driver+pass side just behind front tires) and 2 nuts turning (driver+pass side just behind rear tires). I'm still letting the 2 bolts next to the rear coil springs soak some more and the other 4 bolts came out no problems. Looks like I'll be doing some drilling and floor cutting. Thanks again for all the replies.

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MY 67 (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/jwilson671.jpg)

67@Track (http://www.chevelles.com/showroom/jwilson672.jpg)
355 10:1 TH-350
Best 60'-1.65
Best 1/8th-7.51
Best mph-91.6